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Archive through April 25, 2006
- Thread starter kupdike
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Chris-
I'm not 100 percent sure that a 25 percent reduction in friction equates to a 25 percent gain in speed. The friction condition of the plow face is a component, but not a driving factor for draft. If you look up your unit draft equation, it is based on the soil's conditions and speed, along with your plow's working area. Keeping the plowing face clean affects plowing quality more than it does draft numbers.. . . . . . (assuming I got my money's worth out of my Ag Engineering education at Iowa State and havent <strike>drank those brain cells away</strike> forgotten it all}
I'm not 100 percent sure that a 25 percent reduction in friction equates to a 25 percent gain in speed. The friction condition of the plow face is a component, but not a driving factor for draft. If you look up your unit draft equation, it is based on the soil's conditions and speed, along with your plow's working area. Keeping the plowing face clean affects plowing quality more than it does draft numbers.. . . . . . (assuming I got my money's worth out of my Ag Engineering education at Iowa State and havent <strike>drank those brain cells away</strike> forgotten it all}
This plow coating is getting like the "Great Oil Debate". Here's my $.02. Back in the Ol' Days Pappy didn't have the convenence of rattle can plow coating so.................. the buckets of old axle grease setting in the corner for the last few years were used and seemed to work out well. Now-a-days spary coating is pretty easy to get and a hell of a lot cleaner. I hate it when you rub up a giant wad of grease with your pants. I still get some on me when greaseing up the dozer every morning at work. Wife hates it when I bring home some grease goodies. Bottom line, do what works for ya'!
Cub cadet 1000 K241 10hp 44" deck. Seems to lose power while in the cut while mowing. I have noticed that while mowing it will pull down and sometimes puff a smoke ring out when losing power, like losing power and almost stall out. Have had this mower since 93 and motor was rebuilt in 90. It does not smoke and uses only 4oz-6oz of oil after mowing 2-3 acres. Spindles turn fine, belts seem fine, mule drive seems fine. Plug looked like it was burning way lean. Had white bubbles inside spark areas. Tried adjusting carb. But no clue what i was doing. Looking at carb the right screw I turned out from seat 2 turns, the top screw I turned 2 1/2 turns out from seat. Didnt seem to help and gas would spit out of carb on shut down. I messed with the govenor screw and picked up the rpm that way. Seemed to help some. Any ideas because I'm lost here.
Tom-
There's no debate about it, anyone who looks it up won't find that there's a "coefficient of friction" input to finding out, by using math, how much power it takes to pull a plow.
As far as I'm concerned it's just a point of pride to have a nice looking plow and to not have to scrape dirt off it as much. 'nuff said
There's no debate about it, anyone who looks it up won't find that there's a "coefficient of friction" input to finding out, by using math, how much power it takes to pull a plow.
As far as I'm concerned it's just a point of pride to have a nice looking plow and to not have to scrape dirt off it as much. 'nuff said
Afternoon all,
I got a few questions on my model 100. I was here last spring, I bought a 100 when I had enough of the S$%rs junk breaking.
The 100 made it through the year. It cut beautifully and for the price of the correct voltage regulator it ran great.
So getting it ready this year I noticed the left pully on the deck was loose, I took it apart and the shaft is out of round and the keyway is nearly gone. How do I know which part to order (from a forum sponser)? I'm still new to cubs so not sure if there is a standard deck or even if the deck I have is original.
Thanks,
DAve
I got a few questions on my model 100. I was here last spring, I bought a 100 when I had enough of the S$%rs junk breaking.
The 100 made it through the year. It cut beautifully and for the price of the correct voltage regulator it ran great.
So getting it ready this year I noticed the left pully on the deck was loose, I took it apart and the shaft is out of round and the keyway is nearly gone. How do I know which part to order (from a forum sponser)? I'm still new to cubs so not sure if there is a standard deck or even if the deck I have is original.
Thanks,
DAve
Me again P^),
Question number two, I need to get some weight in the rear of my 100. I've been told the easiest solution is to add antifreeze to the tires.
Now I may be stupid, but just how do I do that? Use a tube and a funnel? A hose?
Thanks,
DAve
Question number two, I need to get some weight in the rear of my 100. I've been told the easiest solution is to add antifreeze to the tires.
Now I may be stupid, but just how do I do that? Use a tube and a funnel? A hose?
Thanks,
DAve
Help! My 1250 has a starter issue. It seems that the starter will turn but will not engage the flywheel. I took it off the 1250 and used a battery to make the starter turn and the starting gear seems to remain at the bottem of the saft. Any history or ideas on this problem.
Alright, last question!
My 100 is quite noisey. Any recommendations on a repalcement muffler? I currently have what appears to be a standard muffler. I don't mind giving up a little HP to get the noise down as I'm spending a lot of time on the tractor cutting 5 acres. After 15 years on the Flight Line I've kept my hearing, plan to kepp it that way.
Thanks,
DAve
My 100 is quite noisey. Any recommendations on a repalcement muffler? I currently have what appears to be a standard muffler. I don't mind giving up a little HP to get the noise down as I'm spending a lot of time on the tractor cutting 5 acres. After 15 years on the Flight Line I've kept my hearing, plan to kepp it that way.
Thanks,
DAve
Not a new question so to speak. I am curious if anyone out there is running ethanol in their equipment?
We bought a flex fuel Explorer last year, on purpose, and now we have a E85 pump in town so I'm burning E85 in the ole-Exploader. I've been reading up on fuel stills since winter and I am thinking real hard about building one. I'm going to be spending $25+ a week to run the tractors at todays prices, in a month who knows how much. So I need to either burn something other than gas or give up a couple acres to the squirrels and rabbits.
Now at first I wasn't sure this would be doable, but everything I've read says it is, and has been for 20 years. I've checked into converting engines and it seems that the fuel componants have been ethanol compatible for years, at least in cars. I can get the cost down below $1.50 a gallon, if I use my own apples, cuttings, and waste fruit from the local orchards ( free ), I'm looking at $0.45 a gallon. Not to mention the just plain sense of of lower emissions.
Looks like a retune and new gaskets and I'm in business. Any thoughts?
DAve
We bought a flex fuel Explorer last year, on purpose, and now we have a E85 pump in town so I'm burning E85 in the ole-Exploader. I've been reading up on fuel stills since winter and I am thinking real hard about building one. I'm going to be spending $25+ a week to run the tractors at todays prices, in a month who knows how much. So I need to either burn something other than gas or give up a couple acres to the squirrels and rabbits.
Now at first I wasn't sure this would be doable, but everything I've read says it is, and has been for 20 years. I've checked into converting engines and it seems that the fuel componants have been ethanol compatible for years, at least in cars. I can get the cost down below $1.50 a gallon, if I use my own apples, cuttings, and waste fruit from the local orchards ( free ), I'm looking at $0.45 a gallon. Not to mention the just plain sense of of lower emissions.
Looks like a retune and new gaskets and I'm in business. Any thoughts?
DAve
Hi, Just like to thank all the cub guys that came to the Le Sueur swap meet and fought the weather. Some bought parts, some stopped to shoot the s#@t, and some to ask fix it questions. thanks again, we'll see ya next year. matt
P.S. jim from chicago, the Linnie's are on me in 07' keep in touch.
P.S. jim from chicago, the Linnie's are on me in 07' keep in touch.
Hey everybody!
It's been awhile since I've been around here, since i only get cub time when i go out to my mom and dad's (109 w/ fresh engine, and 782 with a 23HP KOHLER COMMAND CONVERSION
)
...Ted, that 149 looks most excellent.. and i am not far from Lisle either... it's a good thing i am not a stealing man
hahah
anywhoo... this isnt really a want to buy just yet, rather informal questions... please don't take this as a 'what is it worth' post, it's really not meant to be!
my dad is looking for a snow blower for the 782, but how much should he be looking to spend to get a decent deal on one? are there more than one available for the 782's?
thanks!
It's been awhile since I've been around here, since i only get cub time when i go out to my mom and dad's (109 w/ fresh engine, and 782 with a 23HP KOHLER COMMAND CONVERSION
...Ted, that 149 looks most excellent.. and i am not far from Lisle either... it's a good thing i am not a stealing man
hahah anywhoo... this isnt really a want to buy just yet, rather informal questions... please don't take this as a 'what is it worth' post, it's really not meant to be!
my dad is looking for a snow blower for the 782, but how much should he be looking to spend to get a decent deal on one? are there more than one available for the 782's?
thanks!
Can anyone tell me what the nuts and bolts for the exhaust manifold on a 782D should be torqued to? I can't seen to figure that out. I bought a new one and gaskets and don't know how tight to go. Help, please?
Nate D:
1) The parts manual says that there are three (3) M6 Grade 8 bolts & three studs with M6 lockwashers and M6 grade 8 nuts.
2) The Service Manual says that non-specified M6 nuts & bolts are tightened to: 5.79 to 6.87 foot pounds.
3) These nuts & bolts torques are not specifically listed in the service manual (which is why you can't find them) so the general chart applies. You have to find the sizes in TC-193, section K page 42, items 9,10,11 & 13.
Hope this helps
Myron B
CCSupplyRoom
1) The parts manual says that there are three (3) M6 Grade 8 bolts & three studs with M6 lockwashers and M6 grade 8 nuts.
2) The Service Manual says that non-specified M6 nuts & bolts are tightened to: 5.79 to 6.87 foot pounds.
3) These nuts & bolts torques are not specifically listed in the service manual (which is why you can't find them) so the general chart applies. You have to find the sizes in TC-193, section K page 42, items 9,10,11 & 13.
Hope this helps
Myron B
CCSupplyRoom
Concerning the plowing issue, a bunch of egg heads tested painted plows with horses in the article that I posted and they showed an improvement of 25%.
Dave, that seems pretty interesting to use fruit waste. Corn only gives 1.25 gallons of alcohol per 1 gallon of petrol - pretty crappy. With sweet fruit, it should be a lot higher. What are you going to use to boil the mash?
Dave, that seems pretty interesting to use fruit waste. Corn only gives 1.25 gallons of alcohol per 1 gallon of petrol - pretty crappy. With sweet fruit, it should be a lot higher. What are you going to use to boil the mash?
