Archive through April 24, 2012
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Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Don, Throttle stop?
Harry, Remember the posts about the gear drive internal brake. I said it's just like a disc brake. Thats true, but a regular disc brake floats the caliper. These brakes only push on one side of the "rotor". the rotor is what floats on a splined shaft. Darndest things get stuck in my head sometimes.
Harry, Remember the posts about the gear drive internal brake. I said it's just like a disc brake. Thats true, but a regular disc brake floats the caliper. These brakes only push on one side of the "rotor". the rotor is what floats on a splined shaft. Darndest things get stuck in my head sometimes.
hydroharry
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Don and Dave - I think you guys are going nuts banging those glasses together. That's called toasting and I'm afraid that's what Don's 12k will be.
Don - I can't see exactly where the leak is from but since the cam cover is gone in one pick I assume that's where you think. Also, I don't see a gasket around the points cover. Any chance that oil ran underneath and got your points all oily? And Dan made a comment "Throttle Stop". You can clearly see the "L" stop is missing from your throttle connector where the spring to the Governor attaches. I'd be really careful when you start the engine - without that stop you're at risk of blowing the engine.
Dave - talking about stops, I guess the wet brake got stuck in your head when you thought about the throttle stop (hit the brakes) Don is missing. Dangest things pop into your head at 1AM in the morning.
Don - I can't see exactly where the leak is from but since the cam cover is gone in one pick I assume that's where you think. Also, I don't see a gasket around the points cover. Any chance that oil ran underneath and got your points all oily? And Dan made a comment "Throttle Stop". You can clearly see the "L" stop is missing from your throttle connector where the spring to the Governor attaches. I'd be really careful when you start the engine - without that stop you're at risk of blowing the engine.
Dave - talking about stops, I guess the wet brake got stuck in your head when you thought about the throttle stop (hit the brakes) Don is missing. Dangest things pop into your head at 1AM in the morning.
Still trying to figure out the fuel tank/coil placement..
Today I moved the coil as low as it could on the current mount it is on, in hopes that it would clear the sediment bowl (when I acquired the cub the bowl was on the generator side of the motor, causing a whole host of fuel flow problems.)
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a101/drglinski/104_2352.jpg
Yes, you are seeing correct, the sediment bowl is pointed upwards. Someone I think had to fix the tank and didn't get the male threaded end back on correctly. I'm praying it won't mess up my fuel flow.
This is what it looks like with the wire on.
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a101/drglinski/104_2355.jpg
As you can see, there aren't any places lower to mount the coil.
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a101/drglinski/104_2354.jpg
I thought about running the coil wire like this, it may work this way, I dunno.
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a101/drglinski/104_2357.jpg
Which begs this question, does this model supposed to have a mounting bracket like this?
http://ihccw.com/IMG_6553_41.JPG
And mount on this lower screw?
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a101/drglinski/104_2353.jpg
Thanks!
On an unrelated note, I was able to get the lights working yesterday. The front needed a new bulb and rear just needed wires run.
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a101/drglinski/104_2358.jpg
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a101/drglinski/104_2359.jpg
Today I moved the coil as low as it could on the current mount it is on, in hopes that it would clear the sediment bowl (when I acquired the cub the bowl was on the generator side of the motor, causing a whole host of fuel flow problems.)
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a101/drglinski/104_2352.jpg
Yes, you are seeing correct, the sediment bowl is pointed upwards. Someone I think had to fix the tank and didn't get the male threaded end back on correctly. I'm praying it won't mess up my fuel flow.
This is what it looks like with the wire on.
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a101/drglinski/104_2355.jpg
As you can see, there aren't any places lower to mount the coil.
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a101/drglinski/104_2354.jpg
I thought about running the coil wire like this, it may work this way, I dunno.
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a101/drglinski/104_2357.jpg
Which begs this question, does this model supposed to have a mounting bracket like this?
http://ihccw.com/IMG_6553_41.JPG
And mount on this lower screw?
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a101/drglinski/104_2353.jpg
Thanks!
On an unrelated note, I was able to get the lights working yesterday. The front needed a new bulb and rear just needed wires run.
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a101/drglinski/104_2358.jpg
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a101/drglinski/104_2359.jpg
mgonitzke
Well-known member
That engine and/or flywheel shroud must be from a wideframe, as the coil mounts higher on those.
Daniel G,
Matt is correct. The engine shroud on your 147 came from a wide frame 1X8/9 series. The original engine in your 147 has likely been swapped with a K321 from a 149. The coil was moved upward towards the tank on the 8/9 series and the sediment bowl was replaced with a shutoff valve that has a fine mesh screen attached that goes up in the tank. The spark plug wire was also revised to have a 90-degree angle plug into the coil on the wide frames. I recommend removing the sediment bowl and getting a new fuel shutoff valve for an 8/9 series from one of the sponsors above and put a 90-degree plug on your spark plug wire. Other option is contact the PO and ask if he still has the original engine and shroud that was in the 147 and get the original shroud to swap out.
Matt is correct. The engine shroud on your 147 came from a wide frame 1X8/9 series. The original engine in your 147 has likely been swapped with a K321 from a 149. The coil was moved upward towards the tank on the 8/9 series and the sediment bowl was replaced with a shutoff valve that has a fine mesh screen attached that goes up in the tank. The spark plug wire was also revised to have a 90-degree angle plug into the coil on the wide frames. I recommend removing the sediment bowl and getting a new fuel shutoff valve for an 8/9 series from one of the sponsors above and put a 90-degree plug on your spark plug wire. Other option is contact the PO and ask if he still has the original engine and shroud that was in the 147 and get the original shroud to swap out.
Harry Bursell
I do have a throttle stop here like in Daniel G picture (And mount on this lower screw? ) . I will install it in the am and attempt to start the 12K. I hope it runs after this many removals and reinstalls lol. Some times the simplest things are a bitch to get sorted.I just checked and I have no oil on the floor and I hope I have that sorted.
I do have a throttle stop here like in Daniel G picture (And mount on this lower screw? ) . I will install it in the am and attempt to start the 12K. I hope it runs after this many removals and reinstalls lol. Some times the simplest things are a bitch to get sorted.I just checked and I have no oil on the floor and I hope I have that sorted.
Don T, Look at the lower picture right on the motor mount boss. If thats a crack it might stay sealed till you tighten up the motor mount bolt. Stick a bolt in there and tighten it up, see if that crack opens up and starts dripping.
The out end of the sediment bowl is pointing upwards; tank is level. Is this going to give me fuel issues? I've tried bending it, but I don't want to break off the end that is at the tank.
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a101/drglinski/104_2352.jpg
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a101/drglinski/104_2352.jpg
hydroharry
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Don T - geez, the pic was so reflective I didn't notice that crack Dave just mentioned. I certainly hope it's just external. Also, I can't see a tag on your dipstick like Kraig showed on his, that said something like "No Oil" - did you put oil back in? It won't drip it there ain't none.
Dan G - I wouldn't try tweeking that outlet or you're likely end up with a leaky tank. You should be ok as long as your tank is fairly full. Also, in the mean time while you're looking for the other style flywheel shroud, you can angle the tank a little so that outlet is more level, and you can slide it to one side a little - just make sure it doesn't conflict with closing the hood - and also get a spark plug wire with a right-angle boot as Ron suggested. I'd try to get by and make sure she runs good before going to much farther with things.
Dan G - I wouldn't try tweeking that outlet or you're likely end up with a leaky tank. You should be ok as long as your tank is fairly full. Also, in the mean time while you're looking for the other style flywheel shroud, you can angle the tank a little so that outlet is more level, and you can slide it to one side a little - just make sure it doesn't conflict with closing the hood - and also get a spark plug wire with a right-angle boot as Ron suggested. I'd try to get by and make sure she runs good before going to much farther with things.
jchamberlin
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Donald Tanner -- Canadien Extraordinaire!
I'm so glad to hear you've located your oil leak! Although I noticed the same crack-looking thing that Dave pointed out (and Dave seems like a pretty smart fellow), you're right to stop the leak at the highest level it appears.
I'm wondering if the speck of gasket is contributing to the problem.
Regardless, I truly hope that you can get the motor started and the tractor running, because I really like the way it looks. I can see why you spent so much time working on it. It should be a show-stopper when you get it running, and a nice "keeper" for your collection.
I'm so glad to hear you've located your oil leak! Although I noticed the same crack-looking thing that Dave pointed out (and Dave seems like a pretty smart fellow), you're right to stop the leak at the highest level it appears.
I'm wondering if the speck of gasket is contributing to the problem.
Regardless, I truly hope that you can get the motor started and the tractor running, because I really like the way it looks. I can see why you spent so much time working on it. It should be a show-stopper when you get it running, and a nice "keeper" for your collection.
Jeremiah Chamberlin
I have another picture that I will post in the AM that shows the leak area much better. I see that you have found some problem areas in the casting of this block.Just under the cover is another mark that the gasket will not cover. I hope that is not my leak , because I will need to remove the engine and have that welded.
I have added a line were I think the block might be cracked, I hope not , I hope it`s just a casting mark and not cracked through. I will add the throttle stop in the am and see if the engine will start and run. Fingers crossed here !
I have another picture that I will post in the AM that shows the leak area much better. I see that you have found some problem areas in the casting of this block.Just under the cover is another mark that the gasket will not cover. I hope that is not my leak , because I will need to remove the engine and have that welded.
I have added a line were I think the block might be cracked, I hope not , I hope it`s just a casting mark and not cracked through. I will add the throttle stop in the am and see if the engine will start and run. Fingers crossed here !
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Don-
A thin coat of RTV or Permatex gasket maker in addition to the gasket would probably take care of that ugly spot and keep it from leaking.
A thin coat of RTV or Permatex gasket maker in addition to the gasket would probably take care of that ugly spot and keep it from leaking.
hydroharry
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Don - As long as we're talking about spots and specs - what's this flake of stuff I see laying on the cam? I drew a box around it. Better get that cleaned out before you put the cover back on.
Now, I am hoping for the best here Don. In fact, I know we're all pullin for ya to get it back together with no leaks this time. AND - don't foget to put oil in it.
Now, I am hoping for the best here Don. In fact, I know we're all pullin for ya to get it back together with no leaks this time. AND - don't foget to put oil in it.
cmwkrill
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Daniel G,
I would reccommend yanking the sediment bowl out completely and replacing the fuel line from the tank on down with an in-line fuel shut-off valve (plastic ones are like $1.50 at work) and an in-line fuel filter (maybe a Kohler model number 25 050 22-s) (another $2.50) It'll be easier and you wont have to worry about that darned not-enough-space problem. You WONT have fuel problems, since the rest of the fuel will still be above the sediment bowl and the fuel line (just don't let gas get too low, because theres just a tiny chance (very very small) that there wont be enough force to push it through, but i highly doubt that will happen anyway. Gravity will usually do its job- come to thinking about it, not letting gas get too low is good advice to anyone, really.)
I would reccommend yanking the sediment bowl out completely and replacing the fuel line from the tank on down with an in-line fuel shut-off valve (plastic ones are like $1.50 at work) and an in-line fuel filter (maybe a Kohler model number 25 050 22-s) (another $2.50) It'll be easier and you wont have to worry about that darned not-enough-space problem. You WONT have fuel problems, since the rest of the fuel will still be above the sediment bowl and the fuel line (just don't let gas get too low, because theres just a tiny chance (very very small) that there wont be enough force to push it through, but i highly doubt that will happen anyway. Gravity will usually do its job- come to thinking about it, not letting gas get too low is good advice to anyone, really.)
