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Archive through April 22, 2012

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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proessler

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 15, 2008
Messages
742
Location
Dane county, WI
displayname
Paul W.Roessler
Chuck K, with or without the extra rods on the middlebuster I'd think you could call it a * potato plow*...PWR
 
At idle, the governor spring is slack. I adjusted it for 3rd hole from the bottom on the governor arm and 2nd from the top on the bellcrank. I can set a steady speed, more or less, but when I when the load changes, or I deliberately partially choke the engine, it won't try to maintain speed as it should. I played around a little today with it, but the garage was too cold for me to stay out very long.
 
Got a question. The 147 is smoking quite badly upon start up but after about 1-2 min. or less of running, it goes away. No knocking or such. Is the motor going soon?
 
Bruce,
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It was about 50 degrees today. That's a great day to work on Cubs - in January! It doesn't feel so great after we have had 90 degree days though.
 
Charlie,

I am lost. Are those posts that you nuked?

Or, maybe forum applicants that you nuked?
 
Frustrated and sore spending the whole day Saturday pulling out the engine, tearing it down and putting it all back together and it not fixing the problem doesn't help. Hopefully the answer will come to me before the grass gets totally out of control, which means I have a couple of days at the most. I do remember having trouble dialing in the governor before, one thing that helped IIRC was to take as much slack out of the linkage that I could.
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Daniel G
I would say the motor needs attention. It may need new rings, it may need a breather, it may need a new spark plug (of the correct heat range). Knocking is definitely bad and it would not be long before the motor fails; smoking is bad too, but failure is further off, and more likely you'll begin to have starting problems before complete failure. Either way, you should plan to repair or replace it, if not immediately, before next season.

I've offered my two cents worth of advice, others may see it differently.
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Edit: Bruce --You're building Character too, not just Cubs.
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Daniel G.
Clean the crank case breather filter, de-carbon the head, change the oil, add some MMO to the oil and the gas and run it!

I've got a 1450 that's been the same thing for 7 years now and it's still kickin A$$ and taken names!
 
Charlie, how much MMO do you add to the oil and the gas? Thanks.
 
Bruce, if you choke any good running kohler it wont maintain speed. The choke is anouther throttle blade at the begining of the intake tract of the carb.
What load are you changing? How are you setting the Max RPM.
 
Brian
The MMO mix ratios for oil and gas are given on the label. With the new plastic bottles, you have to peel the label back. I know the ratio for gasoline is 4 oz. for each 10 gallons.
 
Brian J.
If I don't mix it in 5 gallon cans, I used to go with a cap full in the tank and 2 in the engine.
That is before I started using snake oil.
Now that's all I use.
 
My #3 169 that runs has just a regular garden tractor battery in it. I think its the kind with the most cranking amps (360?). It works great. If you have a good battery with a good charging system, and your engine is tuned up, the garden tractor batteries will turn the 16hp Kohler over. If you think you need a bigger battery, youre wrong. Theres another problem in your grounds or charging system that needs to be addressed.
 
ok guys, im working on a 129, i cant get it to charge, and yes i have the wireing diagram, but my 129 voltige regulater has 4 post 3 in the front and one sticking out the back for the generator, i have tried switching out the box with another 4 post one, with no luck and tried useing the 3 post one thats in the diagram, with no luck, what kind of detailed information wouold i need for you guys to help me figure this ou, im lost
 
thank you Jeff, ill give that a try, and can any one tell me if a 129 came with a 4 post VR all the wireing diagram show a 3 post VR, im wondering if maybe a PO didnt put in a new wireing harness
 
I'm working on my 1200 after the clutch slipping multiple times while plowing and moving sod. I'm not too sure how to go about fixing it as I have never had one apart. I did check out the faq for the narrow frame clutch fix. I do have another clutch/driveshaft assembly but not sure if I should just swap it out and see what happens. Any ideas, advice, etc very appreciated
 
Darren, go back a few days and look for a diagram Kraig posted that showed how thw two types of regulators are labeled and wired.
edit: addl info...look at 'thru Apr 17' above, its the last item posted.
2nd edit: look at Charlies FAQs #47 +47a
 
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