Matt, lucky guess...
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Archive through April 15, 2010
- Thread starter kmcconaughey
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
I think I need a new head gaskett I would install
one but I am afraid I will snap a head bolt due
to it being rusted or froze should I trie to replace it.
one but I am afraid I will snap a head bolt due
to it being rusted or froze should I trie to replace it.
I was just wondering, i have been trying to figure out where the internal rattle was comming from, from within the engine. Valves have no play (valve guides). only thing i can think is rod and crank i will post pictures of cylinder walls, piston, and rod and crank in a few minutes.
Hey Kraig.
After cleaning off the trans pull the valves and switched them. Just as you said. I have reverse but no forward. Had to call a friend I know who is sending me two valves. I'm going to replace the bad and the o rings but the white teflon seal ring is hard to come by at lease at the cub dealer. Their out. Thanks again Kraig
After cleaning off the trans pull the valves and switched them. Just as you said. I have reverse but no forward. Had to call a friend I know who is sending me two valves. I'm going to replace the bad and the o rings but the white teflon seal ring is hard to come by at lease at the cub dealer. Their out. Thanks again Kraig
kide
Well-known member
- Joined
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- Messages
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- Gerry Ide
Lucas:
and you would have us give you what - courage, wisdom, Liquid Wrench??????
Eric:
Are you sure the PTO clutch wasn't the source of the rattle that sounded internal - they're notorious for this if the anti-rattle springs are missing - every rotation, the crank goes through serious acceleration and deceleration, which makes everything fastened to it try to fly off.... Also, make sure the flywheel was tight...
Mike:
Google tubing flares and compression fittings, read up on them and give us a report.......
and you would have us give you what - courage, wisdom, Liquid Wrench??????
Eric:
Are you sure the PTO clutch wasn't the source of the rattle that sounded internal - they're notorious for this if the anti-rattle springs are missing - every rotation, the crank goes through serious acceleration and deceleration, which makes everything fastened to it try to fly off.... Also, make sure the flywheel was tight...
Mike:
Google tubing flares and compression fittings, read up on them and give us a report.......
Yeah Ken, I checked had really fine metal in bottom of pan, and just did oil change last week and only moved it around yard to warm up. plus i have pto on the front off and flywheel tight and could hear a knocking noise coming from cylinder wall side of motor.
Lucas - That's part of working on old stuff , ya break a few bolts and knuckles along the way.
Eric - In that case you'd better pull the wallet out and get ready for a new rod and maybe turn the crank. New bearings , piston , rings , gaskets , valve job (at least lap them) maybe new valve springs and keepers ... carb throttle shaft bushing upgrade ...
Hey you'll have a new engine !
Eric - In that case you'd better pull the wallet out and get ready for a new rod and maybe turn the crank. New bearings , piston , rings , gaskets , valve job (at least lap them) maybe new valve springs and keepers ... carb throttle shaft bushing upgrade ...
Hey you'll have a new engine !
OK but it did it without pto on it and why the fine metallic flake in oil? Plus i used a mechanics stethescope and could only hear the noise at one certain spot. I am just trying to make sure, i don't need a busted block. So i have torn it down to check everything and was going to have crank and cylinder wall mic'd to see if either were out, plus photos to come as soon as kraig looks over them and posts them for me.
Most of the work i can do on my own, except the machine work, which i can get all of it done for 120.00, i just hope these are easier to time than a briggs engine. Plus i am going to buy parts a few at a time so i don't have to come up with all of it at once.
You may as well do all you can afford (then cry and dig deeper) then you'll know that you have a reliable engine for another 40 years.
Check your cam too and the points rod. I re-ringed my 127 some years back and I should have gone deeper into it...
... and for
Lucas - I stripped a head bolt hole and had to drill/tap it bigger. It happens !
Check your cam too and the points rod. I re-ringed my 127 some years back and I should have gone deeper into it...
... and for
Lucas - I stripped a head bolt hole and had to drill/tap it bigger. It happens !
Here are the first half of Eric's photos:
Here are the second half of Eric's photos. I left out one that was a bit blurry.
Thanks Kraig, I was wearing the gloves to keep from getting my camera oily. I knew one picture was ify, so all opinions are welcome, i have yet to see what was rattling or knocking. just have to do a piece by piece on the rebuild til i get it all. Then comes the carb throttle shaft repair.
Piston skirt looks scuffed.
Rod bearing surface doesn't look like it was making 360° contact.
Crank journal looks good as far as the pic goes.
Piston ring looks awful stretched (may have overheated)
Some scuffing (clean spot) below the top of the piston.
Can't see the cylinder walls good enough ...
<font color="ff0000">Should we charge him for this ?</font>
Rod bearing surface doesn't look like it was making 360° contact.
Crank journal looks good as far as the pic goes.
Piston ring looks awful stretched (may have overheated)
Some scuffing (clean spot) below the top of the piston.
Can't see the cylinder walls good enough ...
<font color="ff0000">Should we charge him for this ?</font>
I hear ya my wife is already about to shoot me, this was supposed to already be in working condition, i bought it to do the landscape work at my step dads business to make money for being unemployed and now, with this the wife is already hot under the collar.
