I have a question about adjusting the mowing height on my 100. The lowest notch gives a mowing height of about 2 inches which is too short. The next notch up gives a mowing height around 2.5 inches which is a bit longer than I like. The obvious solution is to let the lift lever float between the two notches so the cut is around 2.25 inches. The problem I'm having is this: Even with the float stop secured in its most extreme rearward position it won't reach back far enough to make contact with the lift lever at this ideal setting. Why? Might it have something to do with the spring assist adjustment I use for plowing? There was a time when I was able to mow at a very desirable cutting height but I'm not sure what is different now.
Just to make sure everyone knows, the flooding is an intersection about a mile and a half away, where a major county drain crosses under the north south road. My house, although on the same drain, is high and dry (even though the feds say I'm in a flood plain). The intersection has been flooding every year for at least 50 years. Usually it floods first time in the spring at runoff and then in early June when we get the heavy rains and the ground becomes saturated.
The issue is that the darn road is as low as the edge of the drain and the drain is low right there. The roads dip down right at the intersection, the lady in the mask built a house on marshy land right where the road is the lowest. She's predicting higher taxes to fix it, but her real problem has something to do with building a driveway across a wetland. If the road is fixed, there could be more problems there.
I pretty much covered my complaint in the interview - public safety/first responders have to detour 3 miles; people drive fast and the road and it always takes a while for the barricades to go up - can you imagine hitting a foot of water at 55 MPH, with a flooded drain on both sides of the road?
The great thing is the reception I've had from both our township and the county - I have made it clear to them I understand the discovery, possible planning and funding issues. Our township is a rural (north end) university bedroom (south end) with no industry. Typical road funding for a year is like $400 K, which buys some processed gravel and chloride. The county actually owns the roads and is mostly responsible for any spending, so this if ever, may take years (I've been here 40 years and it hasn't been fixed in that time.. (Charlie -it's gotta be OTF someplace in the world)
Steve, you might look at two different things. First I have noticed there are two different length float stops for the early narrow frames. I have had a couple early 100/70's with a shorter float stop than came on the later narrow frame machines. I changed the short ones out and that gave me more height for the deck with the float stop. If you can measure the length of what you have I'll compare that to mine.
Second, in order to really level out my 42 inch cast end deck I had to add quite a bit of spacer under the rear hanger brackets on the deck. The result of that was the deck is lower to the ground and I lost a bunch of travel on the float stop. I mow right around 2.5 inches and my float stop is almost at max travel to do that. So take a look at how the rear hangers are mounted on the deck.
Don't add spacers to the back of the deck hangers to level a deck. Rather bend the "pickle fork" portion of the sub frame (the part that slides over the rockshaft) up in the air another 1" or so. This raises the front of the deck with the parallel linkage, maintaining your lift height.