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- Brian Branstetter
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Archive through April 08, 2008
- Thread starter digger
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Frank, Charlie, or anyone who knows:
In the pic that frank posted below, of the tiller belt I'm having trouble figuring out how to loosen the belt (front two pulleys I guess) so I can get the belt over the pulley on the gear box. If you are facing the tractor the pulley on the right has a hook with a nut on it. The hook is loose. I can move it with my hand. The other pulley on the left has a bracket with notches in it. I'm guessing I need to push it back to give me some slack but it will only go back about 1/2 inch which is not enough. What am I missing?
In the pic that frank posted below, of the tiller belt I'm having trouble figuring out how to loosen the belt (front two pulleys I guess) so I can get the belt over the pulley on the gear box. If you are facing the tractor the pulley on the right has a hook with a nut on it. The hook is loose. I can move it with my hand. The other pulley on the left has a bracket with notches in it. I'm guessing I need to push it back to give me some slack but it will only go back about 1/2 inch which is not enough. What am I missing?
Jim,
It's my understanding that the pic that Kraig posted showing TWO adjusting nuts is correct for the tiller. The pulleys should also be inline with the tractor and not bent at an angle like they are for the mower deck. I used the one from my mower with the idler ratchet and angled pulleys last summer (I think lots of us do) and it worked ok, but I'm going to modify an existing mule drive by straitening out the pulleys and changing both sides to use adjusting nuts before tilling starts this year.
It's my understanding that the pic that Kraig posted showing TWO adjusting nuts is correct for the tiller. The pulleys should also be inline with the tractor and not bent at an angle like they are for the mower deck. I used the one from my mower with the idler ratchet and angled pulleys last summer (I think lots of us do) and it worked ok, but I'm going to modify an existing mule drive by straitening out the pulleys and changing both sides to use adjusting nuts before tilling starts this year.
My Super A's service manual outlines a procedure to polarize a generator after it has been off of the tractor. I've looked through my service and owner's manual for my 123 and I'm with Art - I don't see a S/G polarization procedure listed. The owner's manual does discuss a prohibition on jumping certain terminals however.
I recently replaced a burned out V/R on my 100 and it did come with instructions on how to polarize the V/R.
But being that the paper work for it is at homw and I am here at work I have no way to copy it and post that information here today.
But being that the paper work for it is at homw and I am here at work I have no way to copy it and post that information here today.
Kentuck, the global warming kooks (man-made that is) said hurricanes would be the worst ever last year as well. Didn't happen. They can't even get a snow storm predicted correctly.
My cub stands proud up front.
My cub stands proud up front.
Frank A. Currier(Northern Maine) (Fcurrier),
actually it has a brand new spark plug in it. the plug is getting fire (grounded it). When I take the plug out after trying to start it yes it is wet. It seems like a few people here believe it is the carb. or timing.
actually it has a brand new spark plug in it. the plug is getting fire (grounded it). When I take the plug out after trying to start it yes it is wet. It seems like a few people here believe it is the carb. or timing.
