Need some more advice. By the way I took the advice you guys gave me and bought a Lincoln Ac-225s stick welder, the thing works great and I paid 100 bucks for it. My next question is, what type of air compressor would you guys recommend ? I'm thinking of getting a spray gun and sand blaster gun so I can restore my 100. Should I get a 110v or 220v, what about horse power, PSI and gallon capacity, thanks guys.
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Air Compressors
- Thread starter dhassler
- Start date
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Dave - Congrats on scoring a Lincoln cheap. As for a compressor, 220v equipment is always better but the main thing to look at if you're going to sandblast is the CFM. You'll need all the cubic feet per minute of air that you can afford to buy. To low and it'll take forever to get a job done and you'll run the compressor motor to death. If you go big, a twin cylinder will be better than a two stage. It'll pump more air quicker.
I use an OLD two stage 80 gallon compressor and it runs it's heart out when I'm blasting.
...and when you buy air tools stay away from the China stuff and Harbor Freight junk unless you want to buy it more than once. Save money in the long run by buying good tools the first time around.
I use an OLD two stage 80 gallon compressor and it runs it's heart out when I'm blasting.
...and when you buy air tools stay away from the China stuff and Harbor Freight junk unless you want to buy it more than once. Save money in the long run by buying good tools the first time around.
Dave - Another thing, an important one - Buy a good quality respirator. A full face or hood would be best but at least a half face respirator and goggles that is for dust and paint fumes. Paper mask won't cut it.
Dave,
I did a LOT of research on this subject, and this is the unit I would like to buy this Winter (which is surprisingly similar to what KENtuckyKEN outlined):
http://www.eatoncompressor.com/catalog/item/504747/172993.htm#image_1
Also, here is a quick page on system issues to consider when planning a compressed air system: http://www.slickpaintjob.com/Air_Supply.html
There is LOTS of information out there if you google, 'COMPRESSED AIR SYSTEM'. As most folks will tell ya, plan out a system, then move up to the next size larger,,,,that way you'll have more than you need now and still have enough for later when you add more toys to the system!
Keep us posted on what you decide to go with and how you like it!
Ryan W
I did a LOT of research on this subject, and this is the unit I would like to buy this Winter (which is surprisingly similar to what KENtuckyKEN outlined):
http://www.eatoncompressor.com/catalog/item/504747/172993.htm#image_1
Also, here is a quick page on system issues to consider when planning a compressed air system: http://www.slickpaintjob.com/Air_Supply.html
There is LOTS of information out there if you google, 'COMPRESSED AIR SYSTEM'. As most folks will tell ya, plan out a system, then move up to the next size larger,,,,that way you'll have more than you need now and still have enough for later when you add more toys to the system!
Keep us posted on what you decide to go with and how you like it!
Ryan W
Ryan - Good sounding specs BUT I disagree with this statement, <font color="0000ff">"In cold weather start up, you will have problems in starting your pump because of low starting torque."</font>
A Good compressor will have an unloader valve which dumps the pressure inside the pump line to allow the motor to start up the pump without load.
On filtering the air supply (out) a cheap and the best water trap that I have ever seen was a homemade water trap made that used a roll of toilet paper as the filter. A friend of mine made one 20 years ago and has not ever had a moisture problem with it when painting or bead blasting.
A Good compressor will have an unloader valve which dumps the pressure inside the pump line to allow the motor to start up the pump without load.
On filtering the air supply (out) a cheap and the best water trap that I have ever seen was a homemade water trap made that used a roll of toilet paper as the filter. A friend of mine made one 20 years ago and has not ever had a moisture problem with it when painting or bead blasting.
a good air dryer is a coil of copper tube with drain valve at end of loop inside back wall of your beer fridge cooled down air condensates moisture and your shure to blead it ! hell your going there all the time anyway Doug in Texas
mgonitzke
Well-known member
In theory, that should work. Looks like a great idea to me...
I tried a shop vac on the cabinet and it pulled out a lot of airborne media so I put a screen in the cabinet outlet but it stopped up fast, so that was a no-go. A shop vac filter wont last long either with some of the dusty media that you buy.
Black Lightning is terrible for dust right out of the bag! Black Beauty is my preffered media as it's real clean. Blasting sand it next.
My cheap Ebay/China blast cabinet doesn't seal around the joints so I have to wear my respirator while using it and the shop is covered in dust. Someday I'll take it a part and caulk it as I put it back together.
I'm noy going to pay $1500 for a collector so I've got to do it the "cheap" way.
I'll probably put another screen in the cabinet outlet to hold back the media but I don't think there will be as much trying to escape with the blower pulling the dust as there was with the vac.
Hopefully the airflow will be just enough to radicate the dust and let what media might get picked up fall to the bottom of the PVC , where I'll have a removalable plug to return it to the cabinet.
I can make a sliding flap over the blower inlet to control the air flow to keep it from overpowering the gravity on the media I think...
I'll have the dust outlet going up over the ceiling joist and outside the garage, maybe even into a container with furnace filters to try to trap the dust.
Luther - Glad ya like it
Black Lightning is terrible for dust right out of the bag! Black Beauty is my preffered media as it's real clean. Blasting sand it next.
My cheap Ebay/China blast cabinet doesn't seal around the joints so I have to wear my respirator while using it and the shop is covered in dust. Someday I'll take it a part and caulk it as I put it back together.
I'm noy going to pay $1500 for a collector so I've got to do it the "cheap" way.
I'll probably put another screen in the cabinet outlet to hold back the media but I don't think there will be as much trying to escape with the blower pulling the dust as there was with the vac.
Hopefully the airflow will be just enough to radicate the dust and let what media might get picked up fall to the bottom of the PVC , where I'll have a removalable plug to return it to the cabinet.
I can make a sliding flap over the blower inlet to control the air flow to keep it from overpowering the gravity on the media I think...
I'll have the dust outlet going up over the ceiling joist and outside the garage, maybe even into a container with furnace filters to try to trap the dust.
Luther - Glad ya like it
kide
Well-known member
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- Gerry Ide
KentucK:
(Yep - still alive)
If you want the real deal - the straight skinny - check out Bill Pentz's site for the truth on commercial dust collection systems and designs on cyclonic separators.. Be prepared to do a bit of reading, but it's a great site. He's got design info on the site and ideas about motors, etc.
(Yep - still alive)
If you want the real deal - the straight skinny - check out Bill Pentz's site for the truth on commercial dust collection systems and designs on cyclonic separators.. Be prepared to do a bit of reading, but it's a great site. He's got design info on the site and ideas about motors, etc.
- Joined
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- Home of the Plow Special
Ken-
That's a neat idea you came up with for dealing with the dust problem in a blast cabinet. The only problem I could see is if you have a strong wind outside blowing things back at you, but then again no system is going to help with that.
One thing I've done is put my blast-cabinet on some wheeled dollies (the set I'm using happen to be a set of car-moving dollies that are not in use at the moment.)
When it's time to blast something I roll the entire cabinet outside the garage. This accomplishes two things:
1)keeps dust out of the garage and away from the compressor.
2)It means I don't have to "deal" with trying to collect the dust, I just leave the dust outlet open and make sure I'm upwind of it.
As long as I remember to close the garage door before I start blasting, it works great.
That's a neat idea you came up with for dealing with the dust problem in a blast cabinet. The only problem I could see is if you have a strong wind outside blowing things back at you, but then again no system is going to help with that.
One thing I've done is put my blast-cabinet on some wheeled dollies (the set I'm using happen to be a set of car-moving dollies that are not in use at the moment.)
When it's time to blast something I roll the entire cabinet outside the garage. This accomplishes two things:
1)keeps dust out of the garage and away from the compressor.
2)It means I don't have to "deal" with trying to collect the dust, I just leave the dust outlet open and make sure I'm upwind of it.
As long as I remember to close the garage door before I start blasting, it works great.
Art - The ol lady's clothes line is beside the garage and it never fails , either I need to blast something in the driveway or mow the grass when she hangs out colthes.
I do most of my work at night and if it's raining that's two reasons to blast inside plus I'd have to have an off-road dollie to get it outside.
I got the 127 outside but the weather isn't cooperating with me so that I can have the door open and clean out. I've got yard/garden tools and 2 bags of dehydrated lime plus an old oil furnace to take out but it's to windy and rainy so it'll have to wait. I had to fight the wind to get a tarp on the 127 but it's dry and secure now
I do most of my work at night and if it's raining that's two reasons to blast inside plus I'd have to have an off-road dollie to get it outside.
I got the 127 outside but the weather isn't cooperating with me so that I can have the door open and clean out. I've got yard/garden tools and 2 bags of dehydrated lime plus an old oil furnace to take out but it's to windy and rainy so it'll have to wait. I had to fight the wind to get a tarp on the 127 but it's dry and secure now
Luther - If it had brushes yes but it doesn't. I could put an adjustable transformer on it and see how low of voltage it'll operate and slow it that way. It's harder on motors though not letting them have full voltage.
Well I think I need to put on a bigger exhaust outlet and hose. I just used what I had laying around which was a backup propane burner I made for my blast furance since it fit an old vac hose I had. I think I need a 2" outlet.
I put the parts cleaner with it to keep it company 'cause I decided to put a table next to my tool box up at the front of the shop. That way I'll have an air supply back there to walk out the door and blow off the parts after they get cleaned.
I put the parts cleaner with it to keep it company 'cause I decided to put a table next to my tool box up at the front of the shop. That way I'll have an air supply back there to walk out the door and blow off the parts after they get cleaned.
Someday I'll get everything in it's place ... at least it's getting cleaner. Still trying to get things placed where I get the most floor space. Still not found a place for the old compressor or a big computer roll-a-round cabinet, actually 2 big roll-a-round cabinets. I've got one that came from Lowe's outdoor garden to house their computer in and it's even got a built in heater to keep the CPU warm in the winter
