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2086 Super Garden Tractor Carburetor Issue?

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tbengal

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Oct 9, 2006
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Tim Bengal
Tractor is a 1997 with 650 hours. It has the FD620 Kawasaki, a twin 20 HP liquid cool. Over the years it has always run rough in hot weather, but always starts right up when engine is cold. Never a problem with winter snowblowing.

Here is a copy of a thread I made a few years ago.


((Always runs great when first started, but last summer, it would tend to run rough after mowing for 1 hour. I only noticed this after turning the deck off and lower the rpm to drive the tractor back into the barn. This spring I noticed it again. So I then looked at the valve clearance, only had to adjust 1 valve on 1 cylinder (plastic cam gear was changed at the 400 hr mark, valves adjusted then along with new coils). Then 3 weeks ago it would run rough even at full throttle. It acted like it was starving for fuel. (I was barely able to get it back to the barn, immediately checked the spark and it was good for both plugs, waited 30 minutes and then started it and finished mowing).

About 4 years ago it had a similar situation during warm operation, took it to a dealership, they changed the electrical fuel solenoid that is on the carb. That was the fix then, so I bought another one this month, installed, but after 2 mowings, the rough running is back during low rpm. If I remove the gas cap, no improvement. During the rough idle/low rpm, there are some poofs of black smoke. If I pull the choke out I can make the engine stall. When the choke is in, the choke plate appears vertical.

When the tractor is used in the winter for snow blowing, always runs great. To me, it has something to do with temperature, and maybe a too rich condition. Maybe the carb should be overhauled? Looking for advice!!))


Now I will add this: The igniter was replaced about a month ago, problem is still present.

Maybe now I should tear apart the carb? I am under the impression that there is no carb rebuild kit. So should I first tear the carb apart and then decide what to order? Has anyone had success rebuilding these carbs
 
Tim - Why not take the same advice / and look for the same problem you discovered a year ago ?
May 31 - June 4
 
The advice from my original post was to look for corroded eletrical connections from the igniter and gasket concerns.

I have since changed the igniter and the connection appeared good.

Many gaskets were replaced only 250 hours ago when the camshaft was replaced.

The item I have not touched is the carb itself. I know that can be an involved task. Was wondering now if anyone has experience about rebuilding this type of carb.
 
Tim, First before I got into tearing the carb apart I would get some carb cleaner (the kind that comes in a 1 gallon pail) from your local auto parts store and soak it for at least 24 hours. Pull the jets out and soak them to. Reset your idle and main fuel and try it out... If that don't work take off the bowl and reset the float and check needle and seat make sure they are clean. I'm not familiar with the kawasaki but you should be able to find a service manual on their website that wil tell you the clearances for setting the float and setting the jets... I hope this helps. My 782 was doin the same thing and before I started buying parts I did what I described with the carb and so far so good...
 
Tim,If working on that carb has you concerned, here is an alternative plan. Get the engine model and specification number along with serial number and take a drive to your local deere john dealer. They work on those quite a bit since the Kawi is used in most of their high-end models. One thing is parts availability is very good there and prices are actually not bad (as in cheaper than MTD) for the parts. That is what I would do if I was servicing it.
 
I was thinking about inquiring at a John Deere place. Thanks for all of the advice so far!!
 

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