18/2082

[kweaver]

Update time for my latest project this week.

I need a boom to pick stuff up and I want to bring the 129 back inside to play with it.
I also use the 1882 to turn my boat around and back it into the garage so I thought I'd make a double duty attachment.

I still need to make the jack mounts and the boom chain hook then blast/prime/paint it.

 

[kmcconaughey]

KENtucky, neat boom/ball hitch.

 

[kweaver]

Finished

(5 pics)

I've still got to blast/paint the chain and hook and make some more pins and clean up that nasty top link !

 

[kide]

Slick! Counterweights?????

 

[kweaver]

If it needs front weight then that's to much for the 3-pt. as I see it.
I need a loader !

 

[lbuttke]

KENtucky

I can almost gaurentee you are going to need some sort of front weight or the front end is comming off the ground.
I use my 3235 to move around non running cubs and the front tires come off the ground quite fast.

Yesterday I went to move my 107, lifted up the rearend and my brother(200lbs) had to sit on the front bumper of the 3235 to keep it in contact with the ground and it was still lite on the tires

 

[kweaver]

Lonny - Dangit I wish I'd remembered your boom and made my boom pivot on the side of the post like yours to have got more movement. Anyway ... my boom is shorter and lighter than yours so I'll have less weight to start with than you do. Plus your boom is behind the 3-pt adding more "off tractor" weight. If I need weight on the front then I guess I'll have to run 50 weight oil in the engine ... it weighs more doesn't it ??????????????????????????????????????????

 

[kweaver]

Lonny - No pics today but I cut down then pulled out a Dogwood stump with the boom today. It wasn't as easy as my little home-made Monster use to do it but I got it out.
I need to get the Monster running again , it's sat for 8 years outside now... poor little feller.

 

[lbuttke]

I defently need to make a shorter arm for my boom, hate to think of cutting the one on the boom, but its only used on the back of the cub, gots a different one for the trailer if I need it.

 

[kweaver]

When I changed Hydro fluid and had the rear cover off 2 years ago I was looking everything over and all was clean and no signs of chipped teeth or damage BUT there is a terrible POP sound when I rock it back and forth. It sounds like it would be in the pinion or pinion bearing but dang if I can figure it out.

Take a look/listen and see if any of you can figure it out.

 

[mgonitzke]

Yikes!

I wonder if it could be the driven reduction gear on the pinion shaft doing that. I'm not terribly impressed with how CCC put that part together on these things. On the iron rear, there is little or no axial play between the reduction gear and the pinion shaft it is on. The aluminum rear that was in my 1872 has two snap rings to hold the gear in place on the shaft, instead of a bunch of spacers like the iron rear. There is so much extra space between those snap ring grooves that the driven gear can slide close to 3/16" back and forth on the pinion shaft. Consequently, that slightly wore the spline inside the reduction gear. I shimmed mine to take up the axial play, and I hope that keeps it from getting too much worse.

 

[kweaver]

Matt - I was hoping you'd get in on this since you just had yours a part.
It could be #7 breaking it's position loose and slapping back into #6.

I don't know , it kinda even sounds to me like a bearing cage poping open.
Scary isn't it !

 

[kweaver]

I could but don't want to, take it a part and put shim washers between the gear and one of the snap rings.

 

[kweaver]

Something puzzling though ...
If it's the gear slapping then why ?
I could see it happening if it were a spiral cut but not on a straight cut gear, there's nothing to push or pull it.

 

[kweaver]

I replaced the trunion springs today since I had almost completely lost reverse. I noticed that the arrow on the plate wasn't matching the pin before I made the change. It had creep before and after the change so I did some adjusting after the spring change.
To get reverse to work good I had to shorten the rod. When in reverse and hit the pedal it stops on the arrow and the dash handle is in the neutral location. When going forward and hitting the pedal it stops with the arrow behind the pin and the dash handle in the #2 forward position.

I gave up for the day and put it back together so I could get the boat back in the garage ... man do it back the boat up now !

 

[mgonitzke]

I'm trying to think what else that could be. Can you feel that 'pop' or does it just make noise? One of the other rears I took apart while I was trying to get shims had a loose carrier...I could wiggle it side-to-side in the rear. The wear patterns in the carrier bearing cups are kind of interesting. I can't figure out what could have caused that- nothing's broken that I can see...

I'm starting to have doubts about how well these rears were assembled at the factory. I have yet to take an aluminum rear apart that had anything other than 15 and 30 thou shims in it. I just cannot imagine how everything could be set perfectly with only those two sizes.

 

[kweaver]

You can feel the pop when it breaks over if you have a hold of the steel parts.

They were in it for the money Matt. Fast and dirty. Not as bad as the China stuff but damn near it.
Sloppy machining and it'll fit without having to hand fit it.
Company's have lost pride in their quality and durability.

I wish I'd grown up during WWII when America had pride and if something needed done they done it.

Now it's red tape for the red tape and profit ahead of quality or personnel.

 

[lhinds]

Ken do you get that poping if you jack one wheel off the floor and turn it back and forward? Doing them individually might tell you if it is a carrier bearing and which one.

 

[kweaver]

Luther - I'll check and let ya know ... but WHY are you so intent on me finding more problems

 

[lhinds]

We need you to stay busy Ken. Maybee all those brick colums you pulled and doing wheelies had something to do with this problem.