OK guys. I was just mowing the lawn and backing up to mow the next row. I pushed the lever forward and the tractor would not move forward or backward. My deck is stuck in the "down" position. It will not lift. Any ideas? I appreciate the help.
-
This community needs YOUR help today. With the ever increasing fees of everything (server, software, domain, e-mail) , we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of IH Cub Cadets. You get a lot of great new account perks including access to private forums. If you sign up for annual, I will ship a few IH Cub Cadet Forum decals too in addition to all the account perks you get. You can see what it looks like below.
Sign up here: https://www.ihcubcadet.com/account/upgrades
1711 Hydro problem
- Thread starter rswartz
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Randy S: Without knowing more details, I would guess that you have lost/sheared a pin in the driveshaft. The drive shaft may be turning but at that coupling at the rear, the hydrostatic pump input shaft probably isn't turning, thus no go and no lift...You will have to pull the frame cover between the seat and the pedestal and check it out.
Myron B
Myron B
I pulled the tractor apart earlier today. The driveshaft does not have a sheared pin. That's the first thing I checked. I played with the control lever with the tractor running and eventually it moved. I noticed that when it first moved, hyd. fluid came out the little hole in top of one of the check valves. I tried it again and it stopped. I put the tractor back together and tried to mow again. It worked for a while, but was jumpy. Now it's sitting in the front yard again and won't move. Can a bad check valve be the problem or is it the hyd. pump? I'm baffled.
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Does the tractor roll forwards or backwards? I've had release valves stick in the released position and had the tractor not drive. I've also had them stick such that the tractor wouldn't roll too.
Randy, Matt G...The key here is that the deck would not raise/lift. That means a 98% probability of one of two things.
1)There is insufficient Hy-Tran in the transaxle. (I gave Randy credit with having the sense to check that)
OR
2) The pump isn't pumping !!! It's almost always the rear shear pin of that coupler. When you get no lift and then you can get jumnpy erratic movement....it's a sheared pin...its a sheared pin....The pin will sometimes catch and turn the pump and everything works sporadically and then sometimes it won't and the pump wont turn which means no forward, reverse or deck lift. Geeez...
Could there be something else inside the pump...sure. Like when was the last time the fluid and filter was changed?? Is it clogged with that crapola you find in the rear ends when moisture/water has contaminated the fluid?....
Myron B
1)There is insufficient Hy-Tran in the transaxle. (I gave Randy credit with having the sense to check that)
OR
2) The pump isn't pumping !!! It's almost always the rear shear pin of that coupler. When you get no lift and then you can get jumnpy erratic movement....it's a sheared pin...its a sheared pin....The pin will sometimes catch and turn the pump and everything works sporadically and then sometimes it won't and the pump wont turn which means no forward, reverse or deck lift. Geeez...
Could there be something else inside the pump...sure. Like when was the last time the fluid and filter was changed?? Is it clogged with that crapola you find in the rear ends when moisture/water has contaminated the fluid?....
Myron B
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Thanks Myron, that got past me. Also, when one of those spirol pins breaks, they will sometime squeal or make weird noises. At least my 1811 did when it sheared one a couple years ago.
The tractor does move forward and backward when pushed. I also have plenty of fluid in there. So Myron, you say it could be a sheared pin. From what I can see, the driveshaft turns all the way back to the hyd. pump. I don't think it's sheared unless there is something else inside the pump that I can't see. Can these check/relief valves stick and cause a problem? I know that fluid should not come out the top of the valve the way that I saw it. I was told be the dealer last August when I bought it that the fluid and filter had been changed. I understand they could have lied to me. The fluid on the dipstick looks good though. I'm afraid that my pump is bad. What can I expect to pay for a new or rebuilt pump if that is my problem? Thanks for your help guys.
Lyle B: I think that those later models have a tranny dipstick which is what he is talking about.
Randy S: Those check relief valves can affect forward & reverse but NOT the deck lift. I've said it several times and apparently you don't want to hear it, so I ain't gonna tell you to check that rear pin in the coupler again. That the coupler is turning does not mean the pump input stub shaft inside the coupler is turning if the pin is sheared....It will all look normal with a visual inspection, but it isn't.
BTW: I would not trust that dealer's so called Hy-tran & filter change....He likely just topped it off. You should remove the back plate and clean it up..refill with Hy-Tran and a genuine new Cub Cadet filter, then you will know for sure...
Myron B
Randy S: Those check relief valves can affect forward & reverse but NOT the deck lift. I've said it several times and apparently you don't want to hear it, so I ain't gonna tell you to check that rear pin in the coupler again. That the coupler is turning does not mean the pump input stub shaft inside the coupler is turning if the pin is sheared....It will all look normal with a visual inspection, but it isn't.
BTW: I would not trust that dealer's so called Hy-tran & filter change....He likely just topped it off. You should remove the back plate and clean it up..refill with Hy-Tran and a genuine new Cub Cadet filter, then you will know for sure...
Myron B
Randy, look to see if this part (red arrow in the exploded view below) is turning when the drive shaft is turning. It's the output shaft on the hydro pump. If it is then the pump has internal issues if it isn't then it's most likely a sheared spirol pin.
Here's a better exploded view. You mentioned you had the dip stick so I'm going to guess that you have the higher SN....
Thanks for the exploded views, Kraig. Kudos to you, Myron. You were right. The spirol pin at the pump input shaft was sheared off. When I had it apart on Saturday, I saw the coupler turning, so I thought the pin was OK. I watched it this evening as I cranked the motor over. The coupler moved, but the shaft didn't. It's all fixed now. Thanks for all your help, guys. I hope I can return the favor sometime.
