I want to rebuild the PTO since it is the original from 1971?
How do I find out which rebuild kit is the right one to purchase?
How do I find out which rebuild kit is the right one to purchase?
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147 Cub Cadet how Do I find out what PTO rebuild kit is correct?
- Thread starter Nick DiGiuseppe
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Depends on what style you have on it now. It will either have one center spring or 2.
One spring, PN/ IH-543690-R92 Use 759-3490
2 spring PN/ IH-483525-R92 IH-545690-R92 Use 759-3489
Send Digger some pics if you have to,get it right the first time...trust me on this! Before I got on the forum I E-bayed the parts and paid a second time to get it right!
Looks like the single spring in the top picture Nick.
Rotate the pulley to align with the notches in the basket. There are 3 set screw holes that are probably double set screwed. Stay em down real good with some penetrant.
bcarl
Well-known member
Your PTO looks to be in good shape for an original. It’s hard to tell but maybe the fiber button in the throw out lever is worn down. There may have been metal to metal wear on the metal PTO button.
So I'm a little confused on the button. I understand that the Button when pushed in disengages the PTO. If it is worn what would happen? right now the PTO won't engage you may get 1-2 RPMs. Would a new button fix any of that?
Is there a button on the lever that engages/disengages the PTO Button also?
Yes there is suppose to be a button on that lever
Yes, but it has nothing to do with the PTO engagement.
That button is the float lockout button for the deck, snow blade or rear 3 point attachments.
There is a spec for free play in the manual for the manual PTO's and should be set accordingly.
Excessive wear in the many point of the linkage, turnbuckle and Z bends come to mind here, all added together make for difficult free play adjustment leading to worn thrust and wear buttons.
Quote from the WF owners manual:
"NOTE" If no front PTO driven equipment is attached to the PTO pulley, the PTO clutch is to be engaged immediately after the engine starts to avoid excessive wear on the PTO button"
See page 18 in the owners manual for more info
Clearance should be set at 1/32" or .03125"
Using two jam nuts, LH and RH, on the turnbuckles aid considerably to eliminate some of the issues and prevent thread wear of the buckle
That button is the float lockout button for the deck, snow blade or rear 3 point attachments.
There is a spec for free play in the manual for the manual PTO's and should be set accordingly.
Excessive wear in the many point of the linkage, turnbuckle and Z bends come to mind here, all added together make for difficult free play adjustment leading to worn thrust and wear buttons.
Quote from the WF owners manual:
"NOTE" If no front PTO driven equipment is attached to the PTO pulley, the PTO clutch is to be engaged immediately after the engine starts to avoid excessive wear on the PTO button"
See page 18 in the owners manual for more info
Clearance should be set at 1/32" or .03125"
Using two jam nuts, LH and RH, on the turnbuckles aid considerably to eliminate some of the issues and prevent thread wear of the buckle
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Okay thanks for the information! so the PTO not turning or engaging is another issue
bcarl
Well-known member
when the PTO is engaged (no pressure) I would guess something is binding in the PTO which is allowing it to slip. Time to pull the PTO and check it out. Maybe just needs adjustment. While you have it out check the carbon fiber wear button and the metal thrust button for wear and replace them if needed. Use this tool and manual to make your adjustment. If you can’t get it adjusted properly you made need a new triangle shaped pressure spring.
Attachments
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Thank you all this is very helpful!
Nick
There is supposed to be a button on the flat bar that goes against the PTO as in your Picture.
There is supposed to be a button on the flat bar that goes against the PTO as in your Picture.
does the front Chassis have to be removed to get the PTO off?
thanks, I have the front Grille and chassis unbolted and it is loose but won't come off, it feels like the PTO engagement linkage ("T" shaped bar in front of PTO) is holding the grill from coming completely off.
is there something I am not seeing to remove the linkage first?
Attachments
Click the link I posted above. It shows what you have to remove to get the engaging arm loose. #2
Thank you for the help, the Item #21 in the diagram is somehow inserted into holes in the side of the chassis grill. there are no separate brackets holding the assembly to the frame.
