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IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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kide

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Gerry Ide
Since our activities include a lot of welding, thought I'd start this to reply to a main forum post from Dennis and we can use it when we've got welding questions or comments...
"By Dennis Frisk (Dfrisk) on Friday, September 18, 2009 - 10:41 am:

KENDELL = I'm about as good at blowing holes thru steel with MIG as I was with ARC. Only difference is they're much easier to patch with MIG that they were with ARC.

I keep trying to weld WAY too thin of steel most of the time. Welding .060" or less thick steel with .035" wire You have to pay attention to what Your doing. If I did it more frequently it wouldn't be a problem."


Dennis: I think I see your problem
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... I'll bet you use 1/2" 6011 rod on 1" plate too.... Myself, I use .024 wire w/gas on thin stuff (or 3/32 electrode and filler rod @ about 60 amps max - but I'm just a hobby weldor..)
 

dfrisk

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Dennis Frisk
KENDELL - I used to buy a "Special" (ohhh as a Buyer I HATE that word!) 4340 rod, 1/4" dia by the pallet. The welding shop I bought that stuff thru did have a stick of 1/2" rod sitting on the counter. IT WAS BIG! My little 200A welders wouldn't even get it to spark even if I tied them both together!

Actually, I mis-spoke, I do have .030" wire in the M-M 185. According to the chart I should be able to weld down to 22 ga steel with it and 24 ga with .024", but I can still weld 3/8" thk steel with .030" wire where I think 1/4" is tops with .024". I use 10# spools of wire so it takes a while to use it up with the price of steel & now welding gas. I have a tip for .024" wire so I may try a spool next time.

I do have some 1/16" 6013 rod that I've welded with the buzz box before I got the mig, I've used it to weld .040" thk before with some success. Most of the MIG wire We used at the foundry was 1/16", some 5/64". My Buddy that welded for JD in Davenport used mostly 1/16", He ran one of their robots for about 12 yrs, He'd do the tacking in the fixture then watch the robot weld for an hour!

This should be an interesting topic. I know welding questions come up here frequently.
 

kide

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Gerry Ide
Dennis:
I haven't done stick (SMAW) on sheet metal in years... The "3/32 electrode and filler rod" is on my Blue TIG (GTAW) setup.. Here's a couple of pics that I sent to someone, showing just some of the areas I had to weld while fabbing the latest Cushman project... I don't know what I'd do without the welders....
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169707.jpg
 

dfrisk

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Dennis Frisk
I'd like to say I'm good at TIG but I spend ALL my time resharpening Tungstens! SON played around enough He's actually kinda good on aluminum but We both have a long way to go to be good on steel.

I like Your choice of powerplant for Your repower. Ranks right up there with My Buddy who put a Yamaha RD-350 engine/transmission into His 100/125 CC Yamaha enduro bike years ago. He bought it as a 100, put the 125 piston & barrel on it shortly after He got it. It was SCARY fast with the 350.
 

kide

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Gerry Ide
Since I got the Synchrowave, I haven't even heated a piece of AL.. The battery box and exhaust is stainless, every thing else on this project was mild steel. I chuck the electrode in a cordless drill at a slow speed, use an old cheapo B&D grinder, dedicated wheel and keep the drill rotating verrrrrry slow at a pretty sharp angle. I'm trying to get away from the thoriated electrodes (even though I don't weld all day long) to get away from breathing the radiated dust..

A friend from PA has built Cushmans with an RD400, a Honda 750 and a big snowmobile engine. I've got pics somewhere of an Eagle with a 1200 CC Sportster engine.. The Vanguards are extremely popular repowers now with the Cushmans. As the crowd gets older, the reliability and ease of starting, along with more power makes it a desirable upgrade. There are several kits that supply base plate, jackshaft and everything to use a two piece (driver/driven)Comet clutch. Naturally, I decided to take the hard route and put a later (59-65) transmission (clutch on the tranny rather than on the engine) on the '56 frame, 'cause I like to shift, still. I guess I should post some pics of the project in the Sandbox..
 

rodsmith

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Rodney Smith
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Anyone have comment on HOBART welders?
I have a MILLER stick but looking at mig for hood repairs and general repair on my cub cadets.
Am looking at a Hobart handler 187 that is on sale for $549.99.I have a while to decide and would like advise.
ROD
 

wshytle

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Wayne Shytle
Rodney-

I am by no means a welder but I do know mig will render better results than a stick welder on a consistant basis. It's just easier to work with. Heck, I use a 120v Lincoln Weldpak most of the time. It's a flux core welder and I can adjust it down and run a bead on decks and other thin stuff with little difficulty. I weld so many small things that it really comes in handy. It's like a little gluing machine I mounted on a pressure washer frame, axle, and wheels. I think a mig would be a good investment as well for the stuff I mentioned...probably better than flux core. Here's how it turned out

226479.jpg


With my back being worthless I needed to put it on wheels.

Maybe Dennis will chime in and educate you. I think he's welded a thing or two.
 

kweaver

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KENtuckyKEN
Wayne - Get a Co2 gauge and tank of Co2 and on clean metal you can turn the heat down even lower and not have to fool with that nasty flux.

I used a real small hand truck on all four wheels for my little one so I could put my Co2 tank on with it.

Rodney - Any name brand welder will do you good. STAY AWAY from store brands or any "funny" names.
220v would be best because duty cycle is higher but 110v and watching your weld time will be okay for Cub work. That's a good price on the Hobart BTW.

After my 225amp MIG stopped working I bought a 220v 175amp Lincoln from Lowes and used it to build my Toyota frame and roll bar and bed. It welds more like 125amps though.
 

rodsmith

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Rodney Smith
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Wayne-KENtuckyKEN,
I by no means am a welder.I had some classes back 30 some odd years ago in HS. We have a big Miller wire welder at work. I have used it a few times on my stuff, but am not trusted to weld things that we are depending on a far as work is concerned. I'm wanting to get a good welder big enough so as not to be disapointed later on.
So you all think I'd be happy with this HOBART?
Sort of feel guilty wanting something that can't really be justfied and not used much! Along with it might need a cut off saw,drill press,lets see
i'm sure I'm forgeting something else.lol
Would I have any need to keep a stick welder any more?KEN how much are the Co2 bottles? Can you lease them or do you buy outright? One other question-How does the wind effect your weld when outside? I have my shop packed to do much inside unless it's something small. Thanks for your time and effort to help educate this hard headed old man.
ROD
 

kweaver

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KENtuckyKEN
Rodney - IF the Hobart has a good variable heat range you should be happy with it. I've not looked a Hobarts in years. You really need to look at the spec tag on it and see what the voltage / amp input is and also the volt / amp output and duty cycle is.

Outside with a breeze it needs flux core. Co2 would get blown out of the weld and not weld good. Both Co2 and flux core together gives a stronger weld than just one by it self.

Keep your ARC welder if you ever plan to weld some nasty rusty or heavy painted steel. MIG likes clean metal or lightly rusted with flux core. You never know when you might need to weld a 1" plate to the bottom of your shoes for those windy days.

If you were closer I could fix you up with the other things you need ...
 

rodsmith

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Rodney Smith
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KENtuckyKEN,
More questions for you and-or anyone else.
The Hobart 187 handler is $549.95,I can buy a 125cf tank for $139 and cost to fill is $61.50.
At our local machine shop I can buy a new MILLERMATIC 211 with big roll of wire,spoolgun(i doubt I use) small rolls of wire 125cf bottle that is filled and a NT welding cart that has drawers and storage for $1300 and if cash is paid NO tax! The HOBART size will let it weld 5/16 and MILLER 3/8 thick metel.
Thanks,
ROD
 

dfrisk

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Dennis Frisk
RODNEY - I'd go with the Miller, but then I have several BLUE boxes in my shop already. That sounds like a good deal on a great welder.

I'd shop around when you go to refill the gas bottle. SON shopped around for my refill of my CO2/Argon tank for my mig last fall and most shops were in the $55-$60 range and the last shop was $35. I bought my tank so I could get it filled anywhere as long as the hydro test was still current. Make sure you keep your tank paperwork in a safe place where you have access to it for EVER.
 

rodsmith

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Rodney Smith
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DENNIS,
What models of welders do ya have? Will have to get a chopsaw also.Found a reman. DEWALT for $169
at our local tool barn. Tried to get Rick at the machine shop that has the welder to throw in good welding helmet today. He said for the welder deal he was giving me, that he might as well just give me a key to his shop and let me have at it. Still having problem spending $1300 on something that will just sit most of time, and still wanting upright compressor also.
I do think I can sneak a new welder in shop past my wife. Just ain't sure I can sneak a 60 gallon gallon compressor past her!!!!!!!!!!!!
 

dross

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Dave Ross
Rodney, I been in a few shops where the compressor is kept in an adjacent shed. that makes it nice, and hides it from the mrs. just sayin.
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dfrisk

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Dennis Frisk
RODNEY - My first welder was going to be a Miller Thunderbolt 225 AC/DC, but Dad beat me to getting one and gave me his old Will-Weld 200A AC buzzbox with the stipulation that when the Miller went up in smoke and he called I had an hour to get him welding again by returning HIS buzzbox. He had that Miller smoking a few times but it always burned rod, and pretty well too. I used that buzzbox to make a lot of the attachments I have for my Cubbies, my fenders on the 72 were all welded it it, and the modifications to the 38" deck were all done with it. I estimate it, the welder to be 70 (seventy) yrs old, Dad bought it used after WW II when he started farming.

My next welder was a Miller-Matic 185 MIG welder, it's about 13-14 yrs old, great machine, it's not been used and abused a lot but has been totally trouble-free.

Then I bought an acetylene torch set & tanks, just a little one mostly to heat & bend stuff. Then I bought a Hypermax 600 40A Plasma cutter for cutting sheet & plate, used it a fair amount.

My last welder was a Miller Dynasty 200 DX TIG and stick welder, it's AC/DC, I've had it about 5 yrs, at the time I bought it, it was the most flexible welder made. With the right shielding gas and wire it can weld ANYTHING weldable. To be honest, I've welded with it very little, but SON has welded quite a bit and when he gets his own shop he'll get that welder. But I'm keeping his Delta floor standing drill press!

I got Dad's old DeWalt abrasive chop saw, and to be honest, I have NEVER cut a thing with it. I prefer to use my cheap 4" x 6" bandsaw. In fact my next tool purchase very likely will be a larger better bandsaw. I'm thinking of a 7" x 10" or 12" that also converts from horizontal to verticle like my old 4"x6". They're faster and much more accurate than an abrasive saw. I've also looked into metal cutting cold saws, high torque low RPM, but the blades are really expensive. Many machine shops I've dealt with have gotten them and used them for a while and went back to bandsaws.

For a welding helmet I'd get an auto-darkening helmet, they're great for tacking things together with a MIG before welding stuff together. I wouldn't get a cheap one, your EYES depend on it! I wanted a 5 HP 60 gal. 2-stage compressor for decades, finally pulled the trigger on a 7-1/2 HP 80 gal 2-stage about 50% bigger CFM than the 5 HP I'd been shopping for about 6-7 yrs ago. Air powered tools just have a way of sneeking into my shop now that I have enough air to run them. I have three 1/4" air die grinders, a sheet metal nibbler, two impact guns, two air ratchets, an air hammer, 3/8" Butterfly impact that's great for small engine work, several sanders & grinders, and about SIX paint guns. Some of those are SON's but until he gets his shop I store them and use them when the need arises. Get the biggest compressor you can afford right now, because your usage of it WILL GROW when you have it.

It's tough (read Expensive!) being a "Tool-a-holic" but it's great to be able to start about ANY job in the shop and be able to grab the right tool for almost ANY job.
 

rodsmith

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Rodney Smith
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KENtuckyKEN-DENNIS,
I've just about decided to go with the MILLERMATIC 211 over the HOBART 187. I was at the welding shop today and the guy has dropped the Miller price from $1300 to $1100 because he sold the spool gun from it.It still comes with a full 125cuft bottle that will belong to me,extra wire, longer wire feed and this cart + tax included. The Hobart 187 is $549 + tax. Everything else is extra. What's a good helment cost?
If you don't here from me anymore, just figure that I bought the Miller.The doghouse doesn't have internet!!!!
ROD
 

rodsmith

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Rodney Smith
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Forgot to attach this pic of cabinet that comes with the MILLER welder.
ROD
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rodsmith

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Rodney Smith
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ALLEN,
Are they anygood? A lot I've looked at are 2-3 times the price or higher!
ROD
 

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