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Welding Aluminum
- Thread starter kweaver
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Frank - It's Meth man ! Mr.Gasket remover use to have it but they quit putting it in some years ago.
Methylene chloride is what we used at the boat factory to eat up hardened resin. Some years ago I posted this info
We had a paint pot that someone let about 3-4" of resin harden in the bottom, poured in the MC and next day wiped it out clean as a whistle. It's rough stuff though in it's 100% form as it'll knock ya on yer butt if you get to much of the fumes BTDT !
I've welded up countless aluminum transfer cases , oil pans , racing radiators , skid steer radiators (green ones!) never had a leak yet
Methylene chloride is what we used at the boat factory to eat up hardened resin. Some years ago I posted this info
We had a paint pot that someone let about 3-4" of resin harden in the bottom, poured in the MC and next day wiped it out clean as a whistle. It's rough stuff though in it's 100% form as it'll knock ya on yer butt if you get to much of the fumes BTDT ! I've welded up countless aluminum transfer cases , oil pans , racing radiators , skid steer radiators (green ones!) never had a leak yet
To the lay person - TIG welding aluminum uses no flux to float out the impurities therefore you have to clean it as I say "surgically clean" or it'll soot up and leave pin holes in the weld. Another of my sayings is "the weld looks like the bead on the back of a cow".
kide
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- Gerry Ide
KentucK (or others):
I'm seriously looking to replace my non-remote Linde stack (I think I posted pictures a while back) with either a Miller Syncrowave 200 or a Lincoln Precision Tig 225.. I like the Miller dual meters, but the Lincoln has a higher rating and I like their packages.. I'm also looking at hand control rather than foot pedal and maybe water cooled (I'll build my own cooler..)Any comments on Miller vs. Lincoln ?
I'm seriously looking to replace my non-remote Linde stack (I think I posted pictures a while back) with either a Miller Syncrowave 200 or a Lincoln Precision Tig 225.. I like the Miller dual meters, but the Lincoln has a higher rating and I like their packages.. I'm also looking at hand control rather than foot pedal and maybe water cooled (I'll build my own cooler..)Any comments on Miller vs. Lincoln ?
Kendall:
One of the advantagesof the Lincoln 175 is the amperage range.....
The accessories inclue borh hand and finger amptrols which I have...I like the finger as I am not coordinated(its an age thing) You can get a water cooled torch and use your own pump/reservoir system on the lincoln. This is all for my 175. Not sure about the 225. Have not been around it.
I know that Miller also has some features that people like. It probably is a personnal thing. Maybe Ken will chime in here also.
Ken is right about CLEAN...probably the biggest error made with aluminum welding and the second is not enough gas allowing the halo to break and incorrect gas.
I use mine more for welding chrommolly tubing then I do Aluminum.
One of the advantagesof the Lincoln 175 is the amperage range.....
The accessories inclue borh hand and finger amptrols which I have...I like the finger as I am not coordinated(its an age thing) You can get a water cooled torch and use your own pump/reservoir system on the lincoln. This is all for my 175. Not sure about the 225. Have not been around it.
I know that Miller also has some features that people like. It probably is a personnal thing. Maybe Ken will chime in here also.
Ken is right about CLEAN...probably the biggest error made with aluminum welding and the second is not enough gas allowing the halo to break and incorrect gas.
I use mine more for welding chrommolly tubing then I do Aluminum.
Kendell - I've always preferred Lincoln over Miller. I don't know why but the Lincoln Ideal Arc 300amp I used in VoTec back in the mid seventies seemed to weld better than the Miller 460amp That I have now. Seems like I just can't get the arc area small enough, it wants to spread out to big even with 1/16" Tungsten and the smallest cup they have for it. This Miller is of around that age too. Miller's lack of controls is why I bought my 225 Century MIG instead of a Miller.
200amp water cooled torch's use to be around $225 or at least when I bought mine in '96.
I wish mine could take a thumb wheel torch but I'm stuck with pedal due to it's age. I have at times had to wedge the pedal down and rig up a toggle switch on the torch to remote turn it on. Welding under boats/pontoons can get fun sometimes
I had thought once back in '95-'96 about getting an Econo TIG but a new one cost twice as much as this 460amp $700 auction welder
My homegrown water pump/cooler is a brass soda fountain pump and a trans cooler and a 1 gallon can with 3/16" plastic tubing. I have the trans cooler hanging on the back of the welder's fan exhaust port.
I'd look at the most control then duty cycle and weigh them on those factors. I've welded everything from pop cans together to 2" thick aluminum plate so control is my biggest factor.
If you decide to weld up a pad on the side of a 1022 trigger Assembly to drill and tap in a set screw for trigger over travel you definitely want heat control
That was a lot to tell you nothing !
Bottom line - if I had your money I'd buy both!
Frank - Do you take the chromemoly in the house and put it in the better half's oven to relieve the stress after welding ? I'd like to have used chromemoly on my Toy project. I wanted some back in around 87 and none of the places around here acted like they knew what it was ... so much for rebuilding my Honda Odyssey bent front end.
200amp water cooled torch's use to be around $225 or at least when I bought mine in '96.
I wish mine could take a thumb wheel torch but I'm stuck with pedal due to it's age. I have at times had to wedge the pedal down and rig up a toggle switch on the torch to remote turn it on. Welding under boats/pontoons can get fun sometimes
I had thought once back in '95-'96 about getting an Econo TIG but a new one cost twice as much as this 460amp $700 auction welder
My homegrown water pump/cooler is a brass soda fountain pump and a trans cooler and a 1 gallon can with 3/16" plastic tubing. I have the trans cooler hanging on the back of the welder's fan exhaust port.
I'd look at the most control then duty cycle and weigh them on those factors. I've welded everything from pop cans together to 2" thick aluminum plate so control is my biggest factor.
If you decide to weld up a pad on the side of a 1022 trigger Assembly to drill and tap in a set screw for trigger over travel you definitely want heat control
That was a lot to tell you nothing !
Bottom line - if I had your money I'd buy both!
Frank - Do you take the chromemoly in the house and put it in the better half's oven to relieve the stress after welding ? I'd like to have used chromemoly on my Toy project. I wanted some back in around 87 and none of the places around here acted like they knew what it was ... so much for rebuilding my Honda Odyssey bent front end.
kide
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Well, I finally bought my retirement present to myself.. KentucK - I chose Blue over Red, cause the Lincoln had a bunch of automatic features, but some of 'em you couldn't turn off or change - the Miller is more flexible, and since I'm not totally a noob on Tig, I was looking for as much flexibility as I could get. Stay tuned.....
That red 'un next to it is the Century 110 V glue gun - I see Sears is selling Century brand welders again, must be Lincoln is trying for new markets..
That red 'un next to it is the Century 110 V glue gun - I see Sears is selling Century brand welders again, must be Lincoln is trying for new markets..
There goes your gas money for a trip south ...
You should'a just brought your trailer down here and emptied my garage ... Digger's to lazy to do it!
Now that you've got a new TIG see if you can weld beer cans together.
First you'll need 2 empty cans so I'll wait a couple of minutes ....
Okay now that they're empty butt the bottoms together ...
Set your heat down low and give it a try ...
Oh crap! you had your heat to high and burnt through one. You'll need to empty antother one ...
Okay now for the second try. Turn your heat a little lower.
Oh man not another burn through. Your tungsten wuz to big.
You'd beter empty nother can.
ok not butt it to da firts one and try et gain.... I'm waiting Kendell ... get up offundafloor and weld
charlie i think wendel pazzed out i dont thnk he kan handul hes weldin
You should'a just brought your trailer down here and emptied my garage ... Digger's to lazy to do it!
Now that you've got a new TIG see if you can weld beer cans together.
First you'll need 2 empty cans so I'll wait a couple of minutes ....
Okay now that they're empty butt the bottoms together ...
Set your heat down low and give it a try ...
Oh crap! you had your heat to high and burnt through one. You'll need to empty antother one ...
Okay now for the second try. Turn your heat a little lower.
Oh man not another burn through. Your tungsten wuz to big.
You'd beter empty nother can.
ok not butt it to da firts one and try et gain.... I'm waiting Kendell ... get up offundafloor and weld
charlie i think wendel pazzed out i dont thnk he kan handul hes weldin
kide
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KentucK:
I checked the want ads this morning - still no "help wanted, welding beer cans" ads, I guess all the big outfits have gone to JB Weld for that job....
I've been putting our outside furnace (wood fired, hot water) together and haven't even fired Little Blue up, other than to look at the purty readouts. 5 amps, short pulse too much for the beer cans? (I'll mike one later to get the thickness) ....
I'll post ya an e-mail about trips...
I checked the want ads this morning - still no "help wanted, welding beer cans" ads, I guess all the big outfits have gone to JB Weld for that job....
I've been putting our outside furnace (wood fired, hot water) together and haven't even fired Little Blue up, other than to look at the purty readouts. 5 amps, short pulse too much for the beer cans? (I'll mike one later to get the thickness) ....
I'll post ya an e-mail about trips...
Kendell - I don't remember how low my 460 amp goes but I had to turn it UP from the lowest setting to weld Pepsi cans together.
I'm eyeballing an up and coming "all in one" that'll be ARC/TIG/MIG/PLASMA ... Like I need another "box" in my way !
I'm eyeballing an up and coming "all in one" that'll be ARC/TIG/MIG/PLASMA ... Like I need another "box" in my way !
Kentucky- I had to laugh at "Like I need another "box" in my way !" I share a small shed with a friend. 2 welders,plasma cutter,oxy acc tanks etc. Thats my atv project with a 16hp Briggs v twin and my minibike project. And you didn't even get to see the back yard. To keep with the subject the school bus of a welder does aluminum.
KENDELL - I hope You got a foot pedal with Your TIG. I got a Dynasty 200 about 2 yrs ago. Son's run it about 10 times as much as I have. We got the forward & back fingertip control and I basically thought I'd wasted over $3500 on the welder as We weren't getting the results I expected. We spent a few more $$$$ for a foot pedal and instantly Son could weld! Not real pretty but He's working on that! He practices with Coors Light cans.....thinnest alum. We can find! With the finger tip control You have to remove Your finger and roll the control again for almost every adjustment and You lose track of where You are in the range. Not a problem with a foot pedal. If You do a LOT of weird position welding You can use the finger tip control but for 90% the foot pedal is the right tool for the job.
kide
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Dennis - yup, got the foot pedal - you can see it hanging on the side of the machine, they even give (<font size="-2">"give - WTH, I paid for it"...</font>) you a bracket for storage.. Even better, I downloaded the manuals for the foot pedal and the hand controls - they've got both parts lists and schematics in 'em - can you say homemade remotes ???? The only thing I might buy from Miller is the plug (and maybe some cable..) Funny thing is the foot pedal uses bypass caps on the pot, the hand controls just use the pot (simple divider circuit), no caps... I keep thinking of different controls that you might come up with (how about one in the heel of a pair of sneakers, or under your arm .. (<font size="-2">just kidding, KentucK)</font>...
Kendell - All I can say is if you keep tryin to find a place to hide the TIG switch it could give a whole new meaning to the term "pucker factor".
I've had to rework my foot pedal before when I'd be on my back under a boat or pontoon. Sometimes I could angle the pedal and prop it up but other times I couldn't so I tore into it and wired up a toggle switch on the torch for on/off with the pedal wedged at a preset position. I will say this, don't use a metal housed switch UNLESS you tape it heavily 'cause it will bite back when you switch it !
My old Miller only uses a simple twist lock 2 wire plug so I can go to Lowes for my plug.
I've had to rework my foot pedal before when I'd be on my back under a boat or pontoon. Sometimes I could angle the pedal and prop it up but other times I couldn't so I tore into it and wired up a toggle switch on the torch for on/off with the pedal wedged at a preset position. I will say this, don't use a metal housed switch UNLESS you tape it heavily 'cause it will bite back when you switch it !
My old Miller only uses a simple twist lock 2 wire plug so I can go to Lowes for my plug.
