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nbartee

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 12, 2002
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Norm Bartee
I'm about to buy myself a Christmas present. I bought a Lincoln stick welder a few years ago but found it won't weld thin stuff. Mainly I want to plug 1/4" dia. holes in the sheet metal of my Cub Cadet that previous owners found it necessary to drill.

I don't have a clue what I need except that people tell me I need a MIG welder. There are several types & brands & I want to get the correct one without spending a lot of money. Also it would be nice if I could weld aluminum.

Can anyone advise the best I need?
 
Depends on the manufacture and pricetag youre looking for, MIGs are excellent for thin sheetmetal welding, and are infintiely adjustable, and in order to weld aluminum you will need a TIG (Tungsten Inert Gas) welder which can be in a spool fed gun similar to a MIG, or the torch and welding rod setup that is most conventional. Ive never TIG welded, but I have done alot of plug welding with a small Lincoln MIG and stick welding with a K341 powered Lincoln Gen-Welder. Miller, Esab, Hobart, and Lincoln are all reputable names to research, and ones Ive used before. Thats my two cents, Ill let the experts take it from here.
 
NORM - I'd stay away from the tiny off-brand MIG welders like GLEN says. Miller & Hobart are both owned by Illinois Tool Works and are very similar and either one is a very good welder. Not sure about the current Lincoln welders but years ago you used to have to use ONLY Lincoln consumable parts on the MIG torch, contact tips, gun liners, etc, and they were much more expensive than the industry standard Tweco MIG gun parts, and the whole wire feed mechanism was molded plastic which is why My MIG is a Miller. ESAB is a good welder I'm told but every manufacturing plant I've ever seen has used blue (Miller) welders where the ability to stay running depends on reliable welders. ESAB is imported from Europe, and their website looks like they catter more towards the larger industrial rated welders where Hobart, Miller, & Lincoln make many sizes of welders for the D-i-Y'er. Also, to weld aluminum with a Spool Gun attachment you will probably have to get a larger 220V welder because it takes extra circuit boards inside the welder to control the wire feed motor inside the spool gun. I'm not aware of any 110V MIG's that can weld aluminum unless you run the proper gas and install the spool of alum. welding wire in the welder. Miller makes the spool gun for welding aluminum because the soft alum. wire tends to make rats nests between the feed rollers and where the wire starts running thru the cable to the mig gun. The Spool gun has a very short distance to feed the wire, the small spool of alum. wire is mounted right on the MIG gun. No wire feeds thru the welding cable.

Normally I recommend a 220V MIG welder so you have the capability of welding thicker steel, say 1/4" to 3/8" in a single pass but since you have an arc welder already you have that covered, a mid to larger size 110V MIG would work good for what you want to do. And I'd get the gas regulators so you don't have to use flux-cored wire, it splatters just like arc so what's the point? Since your arc welder is a Lincoln you probably want to stay with a Lincoln MIG. I also recommend buying at your local welding supply shop, they are competitive and sometimes lower in price than a big box store plus they can assist you with service & repairs plus give advice on what wire & gas works best for what your doing. And if you get the gas kit you'll be there for gas refllls anyhow.

I'd also suggest getting copper backing pads for welding CC hoods, the weld metal won't stick to the copper and prevents you from blowing bigger holes in the hoods because the copper absorbs heat from the weld. Your welding shop should have them or Eastwood sells them. But any mostly copper flat piece works.

It's funny, but I bought 5 pounds of 1/16th inch 6013 weding rod years ago, and I successfully used it to repair some cracks in the cheap dump cart I have for use with my CC's, I couldn't weld the less than .040" thk steel as well with my MIG even set on the lowest settings. But my Miller-Matic 185, about a 12-13 yr old 220V machine is great on 1/8th inch steel and thicker. I bought a Miller Dynasty 200DX about 5-6 yrs ago to have aluminum welding capability and weld really thin material, but I'm not happy with my skills as a Weldor yet. I can't TIG two Coors Lite cans together yet.
 
Dennis, you have to wait till Kentuck Ken shows up again for the secrets to welding Coors cans together. One observation is if they were 2 24oz cans that had to be 'emptied out' first, that could be a 'handicap' to proper welding.
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Thanks a lot for the info, guys. I intend to read up on this then let you know what I've decided.
 
Okay, y'all might not agree with me, but I'm leaning towards the Hobart 140 for what I need it for (filling holes in CC fenders & hood). It had the best reviews for an all-around welder, and the price seems right. And anything over 1/8", I can use my Lincoln stick. I don't know if I can weld aluminum with it, though.

Any comments?
 
Norm,
I really like my Hobart Handler 140 for my garage projects. It's a 110v unit, but does all I need it to do at home. I run Argon / Co2 mix. Nice looking welds,works good on sheet metal and building brackets etc..
You would need the spool gun and another gas bottle of 100% argon to weld aluminum.
The flux core wire is like using a lava-fed BB gun. Messy and crusty looking welds. I'd only use it when I'm in the wind welding a manure spreader. Get the Gas bottle.
I had a Clark 110v welder before this one, and it was OK for the money. The wire feed and some other things did not seem very high quality, but it never broke on me.
If I need more welding power, I tack everything together with the Hobart, and either bring it to work or the local welding shop to have the serious welding done.
 
Appreciate the info, Rick. What size solid wire do you think I need for welding hoods? I see I can get the gas at TSC. Cheaper somewhere else?
 
NORM - FWIW, I run .030" wire in my MM185, the chart inside the enclosure for the spool of wire shows recommended settings for the differt sizes & types of wire and you can weld as thin of steel with .030" as you can .023", so all I've ever used is .030".

Call around to all your local welding supply shops for gas prices, tanks too. I buy all my tanks and exchange them when I need gas. My normal supplier got greedy or ??? and really raised their gas prices a couple years ago. Last tank I took to another shop that refilled my old tank for about HALF what my normal shop would have charged. I have the 110 CF tank on the MIG, think I paid $23 for the last tank and the old shop wanted over $50. I went there to begin with because they were the only shop that was open Saturday's, but not no more! I got my MIG, plasma cutter, Acetylene torch set, and TIG there. They generally sell new equipment for about the same cost as you find on the Internet.
 
Norm,

Watch the Farm Store clearance areas after Christmas. Sometimes the new model line-up comes out around that time.
I bought my welder off of the display for about half!
Another plus on the Hobart, ot seems lots of places carry their extensive product line anymore. Consumables (tips etc) are easy to find.
I usually wait for my local farm store to have their "bag-sale" and stuff a years worth of stuff in a bag for 18% off.

Tips from Mr. El-Cheapo
 
"Like a Lava fed BB gun"...classic!!!!

All I will add to this is don;t buy too small. If you EVER think you will weld any quantity to 1/4" and larger steel, get the 240v machine (Hobart 175/185) now and save yourself the headache.

I went the 140 route and while it was a good little welder, I sold it and bought a Miller 210 (new version of Denny's 185) and LOVE it. You can always turn them down, but you can't turn the small ones up.

Good luck....
 
I'll "second" Steve's comments regarding the <font color="0000ff">Miller 210</font>.

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I think we each bought our 210's around the same time.

They're great machines and like Steve says, buying something slightly bigger than you think you'll need means you'll never have to "upgrade" later.
 
ART, STEVE - Right after the MM210 came out I talked to my welding shop about trading up from the 185 to the 210. Would have cost a lot to sell my 4-5 yr old 185 and buy the 210 with the included Spool Gun. My 185 is new enough to have the board in it to run a Spool Gun but I never had a need to weld aluminum until I got the TIG.

My 185 has six voltage settings and I've only ever used #5 ONE time welding a 6-7 inch long piece of 2" x 2" cold rolled bar onto a piece of 5/8" plate for the catch on my trip loader bucket on my one loader. Guy who owns my steel supply shop suggested I pre-heat the cold rolled & plate with the torch to 350-400 degrees before welding, after I ran a couple beads the heat of the weld had it up over 500 degrees. Think I ran three beads total per side to make a nice big strong fillet. I had the back side of that 5/8" plate nice and orange! I can make nice welds on 1/4" on setting #3. If your butt welding two plates together it helps to "V" the joint out. Lots of ways to adjust your welding process to make good sound welds.

The nice thing about the 185 & 210 compared to the 250's is they still make a great weld on thinner steel down to .060"/.075". The 250's have less fine settings on the low end because they're designed for thicker industrial/production work.
 
STEVE, DENNIS, & ART - I think what you guys are telling me is that once I use the MIG welder, I'll throw the stick welder away. But in researching the Miller 210, it's at least twice the price of a Hobart 140. Doesn't look very cost effective to me. I agree I don't want to be underpowered & end up spending more money, but the way I see it is that anything the 140 can't handle, the stick can.

Am I wrong?
 
NORM - My best answer is, "Well Sorta". I still have a 60-70+ yr old 200A AC buzz box welder Dad bought used in the late 1940's when he started farming. Think I've used it 2-3 times in the last ten years. We did use the Dynasty TIG to arc weld with some old 7018 LH rod 3 yrs ago. But normally when SON & I get ready to weld we go for the MIG, and if not the MIG, then the TIG. Arc welding is much dirtier with the slag needing to be chipped off the weld bead, the spatter, etc.

If most if not all of your welding will be on Cubbie related projects I would look for something in the 170-180A MIG range, and like Steve says, a 240V welder will gain you duty cycle plus increased material thickness welding capability. But even a 120V machine would do about everything you need.
 
Norm,

I didn't mean buy a Miller 210, I agree, that is a BIG step.

BUT, I would look very strongly at the Hobart 175/180 (whatever the new number is) which is the 220V version of the 140, with a lot more capability than the 140 but at much less cost than a 210 Miller.

I understand you don't want to buy a King Ranch F-150, and that the plain Jane F-150 work truck is what you are looking at.....I'm suggesting you consider the XLT model as a nice low cost upgrade...
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If I would have done the 175 route first, I probably wouldn't own the M210.
 
Or you could REALLY upgrade and get the SILVERADO....but that's another thread.
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These discussions are very informative to persons like myself who are only just thinking about MAYBE getting a welder. This forum is a great resource. I don't know how I ever got along without it.
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