Sand Blasters & Air Compressors

[dsacksteder]

Hey all, I guess I'm in the market for a sand blaster. I was just wondering what kind people have and their pros and cons. How big of an air compressor do you need for say a bench top sized cabinet compared to one that stands on the floor? What the best size for using on mainly cub cadet resto's? Thanks,Dustin

 

[thoffman]

Hey Mike "M",
How about a few shots of you're air compressor AKA "The Death Machine"??

 

[dfrisk]

DUSTIN - For a floor model blasting cabinent You'll need a 5 HP 2-stage compressor to get any decent blast time. Air consumption depends on nozzle size which depends on blasting media type and size, and most blasters use a 1/8" dia. nozzle, which flows 15 Cubic feet per minute (CFM) of "Free air" Smaller nozzles reduce air use but reduce abrasive flow and require smaller more expensive media and slow cleaning and plug easier. It takes a 5 HP 2-stage compressor to make that much air. Blasters only use 80-90 PSI and that 5 HP 2-stg compressor makes 150-175 PSI but that reduces Your compressor's "Duty Cycle", Most compressors should only run 50% of the time. Some like the better Ingersoll-Rands can run 100% of the time but they cost more $$$$$.
A small bench-top blast cabinent can run on pretty small "pancake Compressors" down in the 1 to 2 HP range, like the oil-less compressors which run on 115V house current. You may have to plumb in additional air storage capacity to run one very long.

How big a cabinent & compressor You need depends on how much and what You want to blast to prepare for paint. The frame on most CC's is about 5 ft long if I remember right.

Good place to research what's available is here: www.tptools.com They're a regular advertiser in Red Power mag.

 

[dsauve]

Dustin, even if you get a smaller size bech top cabinent, get the biggest compressor you can afford. You can never have to much air. The blast cabinent at work stands on the floor and is hooked to an 8 horse 2 stage with an 80 gallon tank. It still runs pretty often.

 

[dcarriganjr]

Ahh sand blasting... you can spend ALOT of money on sandblasting equipment.

Im no expert on this by any means, but dont forget to get a water seperator for your air lines. water + sand = bad news. Also, you MIGHT want to get a water cooler to cool the air as well, as the air can get quite hot.

Also be sure that you are ready to paint with in an hour or so after sand blasting or your wasting your time. I have watched stuff rust right in front of me. So keep that in mind. As soon as your done blasting, dust it off with plain air, and start painting. Be sure to use a high quality primer.

Also, depending on what you use, depends on how rough the surface will be. Glass bead is said to be decent, however I have nexr used it, It IS expensive. Pool sand is actually pretty good for MOST projects and doesnt pit the metal terribly, There is this other stuff thats called black beauty that cuts extremely fast, but when you prefer smoothness over speed, its not the greatest, but it cleans the best.

 

[dsauve]

Dustin, is there anyone in your area that rents equipment for sandblasting? We have several at work that go out but are bigger than a blast cabinent. It might be cheaper to rent a big unit and shoot the whole thing in an afternoon. If you can sandblast in the winter when the humidity is lower rusting won't start as fast.

 

[thenrie]

I bought a floor-model blasting cabinet from HF last summer for my 1650 restoration. I have a 7hp two-stage compressor with a 60 gal tank. It runs a lot, but works fine. The problem is moisture here in VA. I had to mount a water filter on the cabinet. this is one of those tools that make me wonder how I ever lived without it. Cost me about $170, as I recall

I use 70 grit Aluminum Oxide as media. It's expensive, about $50 for 40# (I think), but it cleans paint and rust very effectively with minimal metal removal and seems to have the added benefit of leaving the surface somewhat resistant to rust. I have had absolutely no problems with flash-rust using it. Two cans of it in my cabinet have lasted several months now and cleaned pretty much all of my Cub parts. The aluminum oxide leaves a somewhat rough, clean, gray surface that accepts primer and paint very well.

You can also blast with soda (also available at HF in the purple bags) for paint removal. It will quickly clean paint and primer down to bare metal, but it is not effective for removing rust, I have found. It leaves a coating on the bare metal that resists rust, but cleans right off with water or solvent in paint prep. It leaves the metal with a smooth finish, unlike the aluminum oxide, and might need etching or sanding to prep the metal for paint.

I'm not against using sand, but I can't find any around here bagged for blasting and don't have time to go out and collect and screen from a streambed or something.

Make sure you use appropriate safety equipment, particularly a filter mask.

Hope that helps.

 

[dfrisk]

TONY - I started with those HF plastic buckets of aluminum oxide blasting grit. (buckets were really handy!) Yes, works good but without a cabinent is way too expensive. Last fall I found a local contractor supply place that sells quartz sand that's available in different sizes. Works just as good and cost $20 for 200 pounds. Also my ceramic nozzles don't wear as fast as with the aluminum oxide. Saves media, wear & tear on the compressor, and those nozzles get expensive. My local big box stores don't have anything but play sand, not graded near small enough to blast with. SON & I tried 50# when we first got my blaster, used maybe 10-15 pounds and dumped the rest.

 

[rodsmith]

HEY KENtuckyKEN,
What's your thoughts on the low end # SS3L3 IR
air compressor compared to PUMA OR KOBALT AND FOUND A CH at TSC for $399. The IR is $599,the Kobalt is $479 and Puma is $519.I can get model #'s for others if you would like to compare.
ROD

 

[rodsmith]

I didn't take DENNIS or KENtuckyKENS advice about an air compressor! I found this used one about 3 blocks from my house Friday night. It works well,but doesn't have quite the CFM rating as new ones.Picked it up for $200 dollars. It needed a pressure switch that cost me $22.77.
What's thoughts about leaving on skid and using PVC pipi as my supply line?
ROD

 

[dross]

Rodney, leave it on the pallet, PVC, theres some have had bad expiriences with it.

 

[aschumacher]

Rod, look thru other listings here in the 'Machine Shop' that look like they refer to air handling of some sort. There was quite a debate a few years back. Its worth hunting for.

 

[rodsmith]

ALLEN,
I have read that thread. I believe though that I might try it.We've had it that way at work for as long as i've been there (14yrs) and no problem! I do think I saw a kit in NT for around $100 using a flex pipe and drops. I'll just have to do more research. For the amount that i'm going to do maybe I should check in to cost with gal. pipe also!
ROD

 

[kweaver]

 

[rodsmith]

KENtuckyKEN,
Please don't cry! I'm so sorry I disobeyed you!
(BTW How are you feeling?) Do you or anyone else recomend install of inline water seperater,oiler,
pressure regulater that came with compressor. It is cheaper made that came from NT. We don't have one at work. Just drops to blead off water.
ROD

 

[aschumacher]

Rod, when Mr. Weaver decides to forgive you, one of his first questions will be do you expect to spray paint. Dont need water or oil in the line for that. <font size="-2">(So dont sit there reading this twice, tell him already!)</font>

 

[rodsmith]

YES! Sometime down the road,I'd like to try my hand at painting my '61' O. I guess that answers my own question.Do I need a better set up than just a cheap one?
ROD

 

[kweaver]

I'm afraid to try an post , twice my PC's UPS has shut off while I was typing killing everything. I guess I need to change the battery ... only about 12 years old I think.

Rodney - I've still never ran a hard line on mine , I just ran a 50' hose to the back end of the garage for the blast cabinet. I do have a decent water trap though. That's the thing you don't wont to skimp on. Air tools , grit blasters and paint guns don't like moisture.

As for oilers , just add a drop or two to the tool when you use them.

Either run a temp hose like I did or do it right. Don't run the middle ground with PVC or the scaly galvanize pipe. Use black pipe or 1/2" copper if you're good at sweating copper.

I'd need 135' is the reason I've not done it yet , which has saved me money since I can't do anything out there now.

 

[rodsmith]

KENtuckyKEN,
Did I read that you had aHEART ATTACK? I had one EASTER morning! They called it a widow maker. Left side of my heart has damage.What kind of water trap is good? Also what about regulating air,if I should ever paint? I like the MILTON setup, but cost a lot.
ROD

 

[kweaver]

Rodney - Yeah I've had a H.A. , got 60-70% blockage now. Bottom part of heart is dead , waiting for back to get better so I can have a stress test.

I have a home-made water trap. It doesn't take much for a trap , it's never let water get in my paint back when I use to build utility trailers and when I blast. Just have to remember to drain it...

I got about 2 gallon of water/rust out of my old tank when I rebuilt it. It's a good thing to drain the tank too once in a while.

My regulator is on the left. I use to use it on my air brush until I needed it for the main line when I moved here. I think I've got another set of regulator/water trap and maybe an oiler in the back room on the shelf.

There's a pic of what I made up for a new water trap in the other compressor thread. It's at the tank and it traps the water from my blast cabinet.