Rust Remover Suggestions

[RobDunbar1966]

Good Morning,

Does anyone have a recommended rust remover other than a sanding disc and wire wheel? LOL Looking for recommendations for a liquid dipping solution for smaller parts (Nuts, Bolts, Rods, Springs, Widgets).

 

[bwstevens]

Beet juice evo rust or my favorite 10 % MOLASSES and plain water. All need some sort of soak time

 

[lpalma]

Vinegar works fine for me. you can use it over and over and over and...

 

[mgwin]

You probably don't want to hear this, but sandblasting works great.
I take a metal "drain bowl" I found in the kitchen section of wallyworld, and put them in it. I use my blast cabinet with the air set on around 60 psi.

 

[bwstevens]

Sand blasting is great but doesn't etch the rust completely off. I have several full size tractors and two trucks that have had several different methods used . A metal prep etch is what ends rust after your favorite cleaning. NAPA'S trio primer works great if you have extra $100's kicking around. I have been using metal prep from the local hardware store before priming.

 

[-CӞ]

Most remover & prevention methods seem to work better west of US HWY 83.

 

[Everettlee]

I have used vinegar to soak small parts in overnight as my favorite way of rust removing four years. A friend of mine convinced me to buy evapo rust which is much more expensive and I see very little if any improvement over vinegar

 

[bwstevens]

Vinegar is a mild acid so it does work on both the rust and the base metal. The sugar based cleaners will not dissolve the steel as fast. If you're impatient muriatic acid is very fast if not violent.

 

[jprittis]

I favor Evapo-Rust.

I have also used a rock tumbler for small parts. There are different media you can use. Everything from sand blast media to stainless steel pins.

Jim

 

[jstewart]

I have been using Ospho, it seems to work better if you don't get in a rush to paint it after use.

 

[jack casey]

I have been using Ospho, it seems to work better if you don't get in a rush to paint it after use.

Finally, I'm able to help youse guys. For rust, sand/grind the loose particles till nothing flakes off. I use either of two treatments, AXALTA 5717s (formerly duPont 5717s) or Griots Garage Metal Prep #40204 on Amazon. The axalta is costly, use the Metal Prep....it is amazing, watch the metal completely dry and turn gray/black. If I recall you may need to rinse.

See the POR15 website and look for the Rust Preventive kit with paint colors black, silver, gray and clear in various glosses. Very informative website, for instance, let the first coat set up for 1-2 hrs, will be tacky....recoat. They have an epoxy hardener which I added to IH White paint when restoring the clean side my CC 102 mower. And did the dirty side with Metal Prep and gloss black....grass just hoses off.

POR15 is impervious to harsh chemicals including battery acid. In restoring my Elec-Trak (battery powered), in 2000, if not inspected for leaking batteries the tractor becomes a rust bucket....not with POR15....paint once and forget, 22 years later.

Cheers, Jack

 

[Donhall]

Related question. What to use to fill small areas that have rust into the metal. I have some areas where the rust has eaten into the base metal. I don’t want to just paint over it for looks. I was thinking JB weld, but that gets a little expensive for large areas.

 

[mgonitzke]

Body filler is what one would normally use for that. If the pits are very small, high build primer will fill them, but it will probably take several coats and a lot of sanding.

 

[jack casey]

Body filler is what one would normally use for that. If the pits are very small, high build primer will fill them, but it will probably take several coats and a lot of sanding.

Have not experienced filling deep pits on a large scale. Small ones I've used two applications of Metal Prep with proper drying and rinsing. Let hours go by between Metal Prep applications, then use Bondo. Bondo has two formulas, get the heavy duty version.
Cheers, Jack