New to me 1711

[bpientka]

Yesterday went out and picked up a used 1711 (KT17 Series II) and a parts 782 (no engine, grill, seat, tailights). The price wasn't bad but the 1711 leaked gas from the carb when you started it so I didn't run it long. Was able to works on things this evening. Got 100 psi compression in one cylinder and ZERO in the other. Pulled the intake pipe and appeared intake valve was stuck open. Opened up the cover on the valve springs and yes the intake was not moving. Carefully with a screw driver I moved it a little and was able to get it to move. Checked compression again and I am now have 30 psi on that cylinder. I have to spend a little more time on pulling parts off and such.

Does anyone know if I have to take the engine out of the tractor to pull the head? I want to take a closer look at the valves and cylinder condition.

Thanks,

Bernie

 

[bpientka]

Well here is a photo of the two tractors still on the trailer. I spent a little more time cleaning the years of crud on the 1711 and was able to get the motor running. I now have 85 psi on the cylinder that had a stuck intake valve and 95 psi on the other. Once the temperature get back to down I will plan on pulling the heads off and inspecting things.

 

[jchamberlin]

Bernie: You might want to try working the tractor a bit. Drop in some low ash oil and add MMO to the gas and give it at least a couple to tankfuls, then see where you stand. I've got two years on a used M18 using that formula and it just keeps running sweeter and sweeter.

 

[bpientka]

Thanks Jermiaah,

Sounds like a great low cost plan. I may have gotten ahead of myself because I have all the engine shrouds off to clean the engine and remove a mouse nest.

I have a few small items I need to replace (fuel lines, fuel fiter, plugs) and have a idle screw on order since the current one is bent.

Has anyone tried to straighten one of these brass idle screws? I have attached photos of the carb with a red arrow to the screw and another photo showing the bent screw.

 

[kweaver]

Bernie - I'd be more worried about the dull "needle" and the worn needle seat in the carb.
It looks like it's been turned in to hard to far to many times.

And for what it's worth (b4 Charlie jumps) Please hit ENTER b4 and after each pic

 

[bpientka]

Yes I am also concerned about the tip but am unclear what the tip should look like on this kohler carb. The local dealer didn't have the part instock and we looked at a bunch of used ones but none had that wide shoulder on the tip. The Carb number is 5247805. I just looked closer down the hole that the needle goes into and I may have found the tip lodged in the bottom. Can't find my dental tools right now to see if I can gently push it out. Is there a way to repair this or should I be looking for a used carb?

 

[kweaver]

I'd say the seat is ruined. If you want to try and dig it out you might be able to use a small wire and go in through the throat and push it out in the direction it went in.
Some old carbs have screw in seats but I don't remember if my 20 Kohler did or not. If you see a slot for a screw driver down in there then it'll come out and you might find a new seat and needle.
Other wise I'd get another carb if you are guaranteed that it has good seats.

Needles are no problem to get or even make for that matter.
A buddy of mine use to make new needles on the old South Bend lathe that I have.

 

[dross]

It should be a point a gradual point at that. some one has fubar'd that bad. make sure you get the point out if it is lodged in the seat. It might still work, you won't know till you go to set the idle mixture.

 

[bpientka]

Well couldn't get the tip out. Tried wire, dental pick and even put some heat onto the carb to expand things and loosen the tip up.

Nothing worked. Looks like I need to find a good used Carb for a KT17.

Bernie

 

[bpientka]

Well the work continues. I started the search for a good used carb and many options came up. I wanted to thank Chris from www.cubclassics.com and Rob from RF Houtz & Son Inc for their fast response in availablity of the part. I contacted the guy I purchased the machines from and it turned out he had the carb from the 782 parts machine. I got the replacement carb and intake pipe free of charge. Went through the carb and was able to get the motor running but not great. Replaced the fuel filter, gas lines, tank shut off, spark plug and fuel pump. Looks like a good amount of water sat in the system for some time and things rusted.

After that the motor ran great and took the tractor for a ride around the yard. Worked ok except for driveshaft vibration. Driveshaft bushing on the engine was shot. Backed the tractor into the garage to remove the driveshaft. After 10 minutes notice a puddle of hydro fluid on the floor. Pulled the pump and found the cork gasket between pump and axle was shot. Figured since fluid was drained I would pull the axle rear seal and checked everything. Looks great and no stripped screws.


So the list of replacement parts continues but I am getting closer. Can't wait to get things back together.



Bernie

 

[jchamberlin]

Bernie: It sounds like you're making good progress. Try to post some pictures when you have time.

 

[bpientka]

Well here are a few pictures of the bad parts.
The first is the worn driveshaft mounting plate that attaches to the engine. You can see the enlarging of the hole (below the metal center ball) and the metal center ball just falls right out. Should also note that the plate came off and the ball was actually completely off the plate. Since the ball was out the drive shaft worn about a 1/16" on one side. Will have to borrow the driveshaft from the engineless 782.

This the cork seal I took out between the axle housing and the pump.

Well hope to pick up the two seals (rear axle, pump), new filter and hydro fluid in the next couple days.

It always impresses me how well these machines are built when I see them apart.

 

[jchamberlin]

Bernie: Good photos. You might want to check the bearing at the rear of the shaft in the yoke at the transmission, I discovered that mine was missing.

 

[bpientka]

Will check that out. I have the driveshaft and all couples from the engineless 782 on the bench. Plan is to make the best setup with the parts I have. Will worry about the 782 after I find an engine. Since the 782 has the CI rear end I will have to get it running some day.

 

[dtanner]

Bernie Pientka

I have stopped using those cork gaskets and now use neoprene as a replacement gasket. I think the cork would be toast in a few years and my replacement will last a lot longer than me lol.
Later Don T

 

[bpientka]

Don,

Do you have any specifics on the neoprene material you are using for a gasket?

Bernie

 

[bpientka]

The work continues. Here is a photo of the worn drive shaft. Have people had luck repairing these or is it just better to replace it. I have a good one from another machine but I hate to trash anything.

Finally got the seals and the free time to work on the rear end. Had to do some other repairs before putting the rearend back together. The trailer hitch was pretty beat up.

A little time with the 4lb hammer, welder, grinder and some paint ended up like this.

Then I cleaned the pump and all the linkage which seemed like it had 10 years of junk on it.
Everythings looks pretty good. The linkage plates and the trunion arm appear to have very little wear.

Paint on the hitch and rear plate should be dry tomorrow. A little more cleaning and I should be ready to put back it all back together.

 

[jchamberlin]

Bernie, I have both repaired and replaced drive shafts. For me, the peace of mind gained from replacement is worth the cost. When I replaced the driveshaft on my 782, I also discovered that the previous owner had shortened it, either for convenience or because he had replaced the Series I with a 16 HP Briggs & Stratton (incorrectly, as it turned out).

Some folks, like Matt Gonitizke use 5/8" stock round bar and make their own replacements, which is perhaps the best way to go, since you control the material chosen. But even if I could source the material, I'm not confident that I could properly place the various holes required, so I just buy new --from our sponsors, not the dealer. (One guy told me he paid $400 for a driveshaft from the dealer.)

Just my two cents worth.

 

[bpientka]

Put the pump back on over the weekend. Went to put the axle cover on and I had the wrong gasket. The gasket is for the CI rear end and I have the alum. Also checked the drive shaft bushing on the pump end and it was bad. Luckily the parts 782 had a good one.

Pulled the rear brakes off the clean and lube. One has a broken mount and other is missing one pad.

Work continues

 

[bpientka]

HELP NEEDED!!! I put everything back together and fired it up. The driveshaft ran smooth and the pump seemed to work great but I have an leak in the pump. Basically the seal on the trunion shaft is leaking.

Questions:
1. Looks like you have to disassemble the pump to replace this seal. Is that correct?
2. How difficult it is to disassemble these pumps?
3. I do have a spare pump I picked a few years ago that was suppose to be good. Can I remove the pump without loosing all the hydro fluid?

4. Would it be helpful to jack the front of the tractor up to shift the fluid?

Any suggestions would be great.

Thanks in advance.