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Straight 30W oil has not been affected by the reduced zinc content, mostly due that it hasn't been recommended for use in cars or trucks in several decades, thus not in use with vehicles with catalytic converters.
 
The straight grade 30-weight non-detergent oil should be used only for breaking-in a new or rebuilt engine. This lubricant allows for rapid piston ring seating, usually accomplished in 10 to 15 hours of normal running. After that (are you ready??) I run Mobil1 10W-30 in my K301 and have for the past 20 + years. No problems with oil seals leaking, excellent starting in winter and summer, engine is immaculately clean internally and you can still see uniform cross-hatch in the cylinder (verified by borescope exam). Engine consumes hardly any oil between the 25 hour change interval. A full synthetic oil is stable at elevated temperatures, the kind we see in air-cooled engines.

Keep in mind that lubrication technology is an excellent example of evolving chemistry. Lubricants are continually improving and a LOT has changed since the 1970's when most of our engines were manufactured. The oils recommended back then are really obsolete with the current lubricants available today.

These oil debates are mostly emotionally driven. My comments are mainly based on experience working in the engine industry for 32 years. But the main thing is run the oil that YOU feel is the best.
 
The straight grade 30-weight non-detergent oil should be used only for breaking-in a new or rebuilt engine. This lubricant allows for rapid piston ring seating, usually accomplished in 10 to 15 hours of normal running. After that (are you ready??) I run Mobil1 10W-30 in my K301 and have for the past 20 + years. No problems with oil seals leaking, excellent starting in winter and summer, engine is immaculately clean internally and you can still see uniform cross-hatch in the cylinder (verified by borescope exam). Engine consumes hardly any oil between the 25 hour change interval. A full synthetic oil is stable at elevated temperatures, the kind we see in air-cooled engines.

Keep in mind that lubrication technology is an excellent example of evolving chemistry. Lubricants are continually improving and a LOT has changed since the 1970's when most of our engines were manufactured. The oils recommended back then are really obsolete with the current lubricants available today.

These oil debates are mostly emotionally driven. My comments are mainly based on experience working in the engine industry for 32 years. But the main thing is run the oil that YOU feel is the best.
thanks for the tip, Dave! your points are well-taken.
Plus, i like the idea of streamlining my oil stock here at the house, where my (modern) vehicles run Mobil1 synthetic anyway. (and shelf space in a two-bay home garage is at a serious premium!)
🚜💨
 
I'm pretty sure there's an actual "break-in" oil available for running in new internals with a higher zinc content that's different than regular HD-30 oil.
I've got a '73 IH Scout II that runs on propane that I've only run HD-30 in, on the recommendation of several engine builders. Of course, an OHV SV 345 is probably a much different beast than the Kohlers that Cubs run.
 
I'm pretty sure there's an actual "break-in" oil available for running in new internals with a higher zinc content that's different than regular HD-30 oil.
I've got a '73 IH Scout II that runs on propane that I've only run HD-30 in, on the recommendation of several engine builders. Of course, an OHV SV 345 is probably a much different beast than the Kohlers that Cubs run.
BRADS PENN BREAK IN OIL I'VE BEEN USING IT FOR YEARS. 30 WT.
IT'S THE OLD KENDALL GREEN OIL.
 

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