Kohler cylinder boring tool...

[dkamp]

Here's a wacky idea...

A deck-plate, designed specifically for Kohler blocks... and right in the CENTER, a bearing. On the other end, a bracket fixture that bolts to the block, also with bearing and in between, a bar, with a cutter, and a timed-gear driving leadscrew...

Chuck the whole thing in a mill, drive the cutter from the spindle, and bore the cylinder in-my-garage...

Of course, it'd be specifically for Kohlers... but what if?

Got knuckle-ends made for my new axle yesterday... would make the center-pivot piece today, but have babysitting duty.

 

[dhoefler]

All of my Kohler engines have been bored in the lathe bolted to the faceplate. Total set-up and machining time is less than 10 minutes.

 

[jluckey]

Let me give you the DanHco to normal person conversion time table. . .

DanHco = 10 Min VS normal person = three weeks

Dan you ROCK!!!

 

[dkamp]

Hey... I'll hafta check-see if I can actually swing and cut a K-motor block with my 10EE... I think the biggest challenge will just be makin' the swing...

Thanks, Dan!

 

[dkamp]

Dan- when you bore 'em, how much do you leave for honing?

 

[digger]

Dave K,
Knowin Dan, I doubt you have to hone when he gets done!

 

[dkamp]

Hee hee... well Charlie, I'm sure he gets an impeccable finish quality in even his 'lousy' cuts, but it's hard to get the 45-degree cross-hatch pattern required by the piston-rings in order for them to seat properly...

 

[kweaver]

Dave maybe he puts the hone in the tailstock and cuts a 2TPI while the saddle moves the tailstock

 

[dhoefler]

Hey! Come on now, quit picking on me!

Dave, I think that will be pushing it in a 10" swing machine!!

I leave .002 for honing. I hone them in the radial drill press with a Sunnen hone while running the quill up and down to get the proper pattern.

Dan

 

[dkamp]

Okay, well, I dunno what my clearance looks like, but the Monarch 10EE came in a few different versions, mine happens to be 'stamped' as a 12.5" swing-over-bed... I DID turn a very large disk in it today, but I had'ta hang-ten with the tool (and specially-align the toolpost) to face it off clean.

I'll hafta get this K241 torn down bolt it to the plate and see what happens.

Workin' on the Johannsen today- the M-head is ready to do some work, but as others have said, the 1/2hp motor is just strong enough to cut stiff cheese, so I'm fabbing an adapter and additional belt reduction to run a 1hp 3750rpm 56C TEFC motor in it's place... at least it'll be more-up-to-task at swinging bigger drill bits, and hopefully it'll work find for spinning a grinding-cone for lame, but functional surface grinding tasks. If the 20" rotary table works out right, I should be able to mill large-diameter ball-races and make large-diameter turning cuts (bigger'n the Monarch, anyway).

Back to the shop!

 

[bpalsgrove]

I also bore my blocks on a face plate mounted to my 18" lathe. I then hone them by hand with a big ole drill and hone. This method is getting old and I've been toying with the idea of building a simple hand stroked power hone, making it so I could add a power stroke to it at a later date. I probably have everything I would need to build it laying around the shop. Something on the size of doing just small engines, my shop is full to the gills now so space is limited. After looking at the professional ones on the net there really is not much to building one. I have the hones, motors, bearings and a "donor" variable drive spindle setup out of an old Sears lawn tractor that would be perfect for variable spindle speeds. Has anyone else had this same thought?

 

[dkamp]

Well, Bruce- I'll admit to contemplating the use of a variable-speed (Lawn-tractor) drive to operate a big power-tool, however, other alternatives appeared at my 'favorite price'.

Re. boring cylinders... I checked my Monarch 10EE, and although it has ability in the precision front, it doesn't have enough swing for me to feel 'safe' about cutting the hole. Probably do it alright with a boring-head in the Bridgeport, though.