Hour Meter Internals

[jchamberlin]

Thought I would post photos here so that in the future people would not have to search the Archives for an answer to a question that comes up now-and-then, "What does the inside of a IH/CC hour meter look like and how does it work?"

Well the pictures below tell the story of what it looks like, and how I opened it up. The last two pictures detail a part that was loose before dis-assembly and where it should go.

If there is interest in high resolution shots, I'll send my pictures to Kraig McConaughey for distribution and/or posting.

 

[jchamberlin]

More shots of the internals:

As Dave Schwandt described the action of the movement on the Main Forum, when the contacts close, the electro-magnet (or solenoid) "kicks" and winds the main spring a pre-set amount. The movement then winds down until contact is made again.

If Dave is right, and I believe he is, then every time you turn the key, the solenoid "kicks" and starts at least one cycle of time to elapse. Multiple key "switch-ons" don't have any effect; and EVERY time it winds down, it will "kick" again as long as power is applied to the unit, that is, as long as the key is on.

(Have I got it about right, Dave?)

 

[jchamberlin]

Details of Internal Clock Workings in laymen's terms (because I don't know the technical ones):

What the pictures try to convey is that when the "kicker" fires, the cast piece above the red wheel is thrown back and the ratchet or pawl is set on the red wheel. The extension spring which is also attached to the cast piece pulls the cast piece on which one of the contacts is affixed back so that the connection is made once more and the cast piece is thrown back and the pawl takes another bite on the red wheel and the whole process repeats itself.

The cast piece is not thrown back very far, about 1/4" and it doesn't take very long to close the gap and receive another kick, I would estimate 3-6 seconds. Someone with a working clock and a good ear should be able to time the "kick clicks."

The red wheel drives the "white hand" directly and its rate of movement is controlled by the balance wheel, and what I'm calling the "Tick Toggle."

The speed of the movement is controlled by the tension on the coil spring attached to the balance wheel which is adjustable. The adjustment limits appear to be marked by notches in the top "plane" (or bottom plane if one starts from the face as the top), and the setting appears to be marked in ink between the two notches. I tried moving mine a bit to see if I could get the balance wheel to keep turning, but no go, mine is just plain broke and needs the attention of a watchmaker.

 

[bbranstetter]

I wonder what the chances are for repairing these if they are not in too bad of condition?

 

[jchamberlin]

Brian: I would guess anywhere from $125 to $350 or more depending on whether gears needed to be cut and new parts made. I think might be made operational with a good cleaning, but where am I going to get one? The last time I took a mechanical watch to a jewelry store for repair, they wanted to send it off to Atlanta for an "estimate." I think the cost of cleaning was at least $125, the jeweler still wanted a "fee" for handling the transaction.

 

[kide]

Good thread, but why in the Machine Shop??

 

[jchamberlin]

Summary of discussion from the Main Forum:

Dave Schwandt recognizes the works as nearly identical to the ones in his old Chrysler 300 dating back to 1959.

Gerry Ide contributes that in the old days, the internal workings were often cleaned in kerosene and offers that the hands could be moved on their stems. The hands are made of plastic.

Jeff Baker wonders if the unit could be reassembled. I respond that if I had cut the bezel at 90 degrees to the case, it could probably be "banded" back together somehow.

Next step would be to take it to a watchmaker to see exactly what it would take to restore this one to operation.

 

[joligschlaeger]

As Dave mentioned, cars from the late '50s, early '60's had an electric clock, sometimes optional. Most did not run for life of car and were not sealed, had a hole for dash lighting. I think I have an old hour meter from my 1200 that quit, also have an identical hour meter, nib, from Sears catalog, need to locate it too..

 

[bbranstetter]

Here is a few shots of my wifes 782 Maintenance Minder. Looks like the 'regulator' popped out some how. After flexing the back plate a little and some light oil I was able to get it running again.

I've got some video that I'm going to post later. All I have to do now is sand the rust off of the pod and repaint. A buddy of mine is going to cut and new lens for the face of it so hopefully it will be good as new

 

[kide]

Great thread, still in the wrong place.....

 

[jbaker]

Brian/Jeremiah very cool makes me want to take mine apart