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Finally! 169 done.
- Thread starter jstorma
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Very nice! It’s always nice to get a project completed.
Jim, simply put, awesome job!! Some of us realize the tremendous time and effort that went into that!!
Jim, that is one sweet machine !
Great job.
Great job.
Beautiful finished work. I hope my 108 will look that good. Wonderful example too follow.
Thanks guys, I really appreciate the comments.
Yellow paint is standard CaseIH federal yellow, The white is neson paint. I didn't paint the white or the yellow except for the engine and transmission. The frame and sheet metal were dustless blasted and received a coat of epoxy primer then the paint. The black is powder coated. The black grille insert is a plastic paint; VHT high temp. Muffler is VHT ceramic paint. Most of the original bolts that were salvageable had the rust and old plating removed with vinegar and then replated with zinc. The zinc was not bright zinc; but a kit I purchased just to give it a try. I had use bull dog adhesive promotor and if I remember correctly Kyron silver paint; same for the hood hold down springs, pto rods, hood hinge, and rear light clamps. The lift pin for the rear lift was painted with Rustoleum wheel paint.
I know its not exactly how it would look when it left the factory, but does look nice. This tractor did have some previous owner paint repair so I'm not sure what was all exactly painted and what was not from the factory. My 128 which is older had also been touched up previous to my ownership was also a bit different and hard to tell how they left the factory. Mostly I was concerned about rust and wanted to preserve as much as possible. Each part was individually painted and not as an assembly which I know is what the factory did. Of course paint was removed as needed for electrical reasons and touched up after assembly.
Learned a lot about plating, adhesive promotor, ceramic paint, and plastic paint on this one, I'll see how it holds up over the years.
Yellow paint is standard CaseIH federal yellow, The white is neson paint. I didn't paint the white or the yellow except for the engine and transmission. The frame and sheet metal were dustless blasted and received a coat of epoxy primer then the paint. The black is powder coated. The black grille insert is a plastic paint; VHT high temp. Muffler is VHT ceramic paint. Most of the original bolts that were salvageable had the rust and old plating removed with vinegar and then replated with zinc. The zinc was not bright zinc; but a kit I purchased just to give it a try. I had use bull dog adhesive promotor and if I remember correctly Kyron silver paint; same for the hood hold down springs, pto rods, hood hinge, and rear light clamps. The lift pin for the rear lift was painted with Rustoleum wheel paint.
I know its not exactly how it would look when it left the factory, but does look nice. This tractor did have some previous owner paint repair so I'm not sure what was all exactly painted and what was not from the factory. My 128 which is older had also been touched up previous to my ownership was also a bit different and hard to tell how they left the factory. Mostly I was concerned about rust and wanted to preserve as much as possible. Each part was individually painted and not as an assembly which I know is what the factory did. Of course paint was removed as needed for electrical reasons and touched up after assembly.
Learned a lot about plating, adhesive promotor, ceramic paint, and plastic paint on this one, I'll see how it holds up over the years.
That is nice!
Rene Smythe
Well-known member
- Joined
- Feb 18, 2022
- Messages
- 69
Where did you get the seat? Ours is long gone except the metal. We desperately need rear tires too.. Absolutely stunning!Thanks guys, I really appreciate the comments.
Yellow paint is standard CaseIH federal yellow, The white is neson paint. I didn't paint the white or the yellow except for the engine and transmission. The frame and sheet metal were dustless blasted and received a coat of epoxy primer then the paint. The black is powder coated. The black grille insert is a plastic paint; VHT high temp. Muffler is VHT ceramic paint. Most of the original bolts that were salvageable had the rust and old plating removed with vinegar and then replated with zinc. The zinc was not bright zinc; but a kit I purchased just to give it a try. I had use bull dog adhesive promotor and if I remember correctly Kyron silver paint; same for the hood hold down springs, pto rods, hood hinge, and rear light clamps. The lift pin for the rear lift was painted with Rustoleum wheel paint.
I know its not exactly how it would look when it left the factory, but does look nice. This tractor did have some previous owner paint repair so I'm not sure what was all exactly painted and what was not from the factory. My 128 which is older had also been touched up previous to my ownership was also a bit different and hard to tell how they left the factory. Mostly I was concerned about rust and wanted to preserve as much as possible. Each part was individually painted and not as an assembly which I know is what the factory did. Of course paint was removed as needed for electrical reasons and touched up after assembly.
Learned a lot about plating, adhesive promotor, ceramic paint, and plastic paint on this one, I'll see how it holds up over the years.
Rene Smythe
Well-known member
- Joined
- Feb 18, 2022
- Messages
- 69
Absolutely stunning! Where did you get the seat? Ours is long gone except the metal. We desperately need rear tires too plus taillights..
Very cool. I presume you used a hardner with the Federal yellow? I would be interested in the mix ratio as I plan to use the ironguard red on my 782D.Thanks guys, I really appreciate the comments.
Yellow paint is standard CaseIH federal yellow, The white is neson paint. I didn't paint the white or the yellow except for the engine and transmission. The frame and sheet metal were dustless blasted and received a coat of epoxy primer then the paint. The black is powder coated. The black grille insert is a plastic paint; VHT high temp. Muffler is VHT ceramic paint. Most of the original bolts that were salvageable had the rust and old plating removed with vinegar and then replated with zinc. The zinc was not bright zinc; but a kit I purchased just to give it a try. I had use bull dog adhesive promotor and if I remember correctly Kyron silver paint; same for the hood hold down springs, pto rods, hood hinge, and rear light clamps. The lift pin for the rear lift was painted with Rustoleum wheel paint.
I know its not exactly how it would look when it left the factory, but does look nice. This tractor did have some previous owner paint repair so I'm not sure what was all exactly painted and what was not from the factory. My 128 which is older had also been touched up previous to my ownership was also a bit different and hard to tell how they left the factory. Mostly I was concerned about rust and wanted to preserve as much as possible. Each part was individually painted and not as an assembly which I know is what the factory did. Of course paint was removed as needed for electrical reasons and touched up after assembly.
Learned a lot about plating, adhesive promotor, ceramic paint, and plastic paint on this one, I'll see how it holds up over the years.
mgerecke
Well-known member
what are the front ties and where did you get them?
Click this link. Probably where most of us on here get our tires from.
https://www.millertire.com/categories/lawn-garden-tires/16x6-50-8/
click on lawn/garden tires then 16x6.5-8 then scroll down to the bottom. Vredesteins. 5 rib implement tire.
I am currently doing a 169 as well.
What did you do about your hour meter harness? I am needing one
What about the main harness… NOS? Reused, or new?
What color did you paint your PTO?
Nice looking tractor
What did you do about your hour meter harness? I am needing one
What about the main harness… NOS? Reused, or new?
What color did you paint your PTO?
Nice looking tractor
If yours is there; please feel free to post a few pictures of it and how it is connected. Mine was missing.
I could not find a wiring diagram or any pictures on the net on how it hooks up, what size wire or color was used. I used 14 ga wire I had and used an inline fuse with an eye terminal to connect it to the 12V positive side of the ignition coil and ran the ground wire to the small screw that holds the meter shield to the frame using another eye terminal. I would suggest using flag terminals to connect the meter as regular push on terminals were pushed against the hydraulic hose and I'm sure over time will damage the working of the meter.
Wire harness came from porch electric, new. Porch Electric I see they are updating their website. You might need to email them.
CC specialties has them as well who is a vendor located at the top of the page. CC Specialties
I did use new 6 ga. primary wire (red) from the starter/generator to the starter solenoid and again from the starter solenoid to the battery. The grounding wires for the battery to frame and the starter/generator to the frame were reused as they looked in good shape.
PTO was yellow when I bought it, so I had it's parts painted yellow.
Thanks for the nice comment. Good luck with restoring/refurbishing your tractor and hope you have a lot of fun with it.
