I just put a 450 Snowblower on my Super Cub 2072. I am having issues with the lifting push rod. I have read the design of the lifting companants on the blower is poor...which I agree.(i bent it once and then snapped it within a week) Somebody mentioned that they purchased extension plates to alleviate the problms? Can anybody help me? I am also planning on changing from the 4in pully to the 6in pully. Can I just change the pully behind the grill of my tractor or do I have to buy the entire cluch/pully?
Cub Cadet 2072 with 450 Snowblower
- Thread starter cboyland
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Chad, WELCOME!
If you look through the posts in the "CCC and MTD Machines & Equipment" forum area you should find info on how to fix and prevent further damage to the lift mechanism.
If you look through the posts in the "CCC and MTD Machines & Equipment" forum area you should find info on how to fix and prevent further damage to the lift mechanism.
proessler
Well-known member
Chad Welcome, post pics to facilitate problem diagnosis...Kraig, doesn't Matt G & Steve B have a similar 18/2072 with 450. Need lift bracket #784-5415-0499 to push the 450 up...& bracket extenions #784-5407 for sub frame to compensate for Super's taller height... Donald T also fabbed a stop,so it would not go over center in the down position.
Paul, I know Art Aytay has a 450 on his 2072 and he has posted a bunch of info on the lift issues and fixes.
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Chad-
Check out these two threads for more info:
https://www.ihcubcadet.com/forum/messages/22774/220017.html?1295953409
https://www.ihcubcadet.com/forum/messages/22774/97343.html?1232056549
Check out these two threads for more info:
https://www.ihcubcadet.com/forum/messages/22774/220017.html?1295953409
https://www.ihcubcadet.com/forum/messages/22774/97343.html?1232056549
I will post photo's tonight. The blower is down on the ground and they way it sits the lever connecting to the pushrod is facing back towards the tractor and when I raise the blower its like the lever and pushrod work against eachother.
This is a photo of the blower. As you can see the bracket for where the push rod is at 9 o'clock position. I think it is past center point guys?
The pushrod has been removed because I am making a new one. The blower is in the DOWN position in the photo
The pushrod has been removed because I am making a new one. The blower is in the DOWN position in the photo
I looked at Art Aytay's posts and photo's. I am curious if he put the 6inch pully on his 2072 to get that much distance out of the snowblower. I am only getting about 6 feet with a 4 inch pully(on the engine) And is it a matter of taking the center bolt out of that pully?
chad boyland
looking at the picture you posted of the lift arm on the 450 snow blower , I would say that because the tractor sits so high and the blower on the ground your lift arm is causing a problem. You could adjust the lift arm to hold the blower up so it does not drop so far that it gets to that position to cause the problem that you are having. I can see that your lift arm is fighting with the blower because of the lift angle. Paul R mention extension brackets, do you have those.?. I would just readjust the blower so when it is in the down position the weight of the blower resting on the lift arm at an angle that it can be lifted without binding like it must be now.I know you tractor is higher than my 1512 and I see where that is a problem for you in adjustment. Later Don T
looking at the picture you posted of the lift arm on the 450 snow blower , I would say that because the tractor sits so high and the blower on the ground your lift arm is causing a problem. You could adjust the lift arm to hold the blower up so it does not drop so far that it gets to that position to cause the problem that you are having. I can see that your lift arm is fighting with the blower because of the lift angle. Paul R mention extension brackets, do you have those.?. I would just readjust the blower so when it is in the down position the weight of the blower resting on the lift arm at an angle that it can be lifted without binding like it must be now.I know you tractor is higher than my 1512 and I see where that is a problem for you in adjustment. Later Don T
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Chad-
Nothing has been changed on my #450 from the way it came from the factory. These 2-stage blowers should EASILY throw out to a 15-20' distance and could put snow up on the roof of my single-story house. (If we'd ever get some snow!!)
Something is not "right" with your blower.
Could the belt be slipping? Do you have the tension pulley flipped to the "over-center" position so that the belt is tight? If so, I would then remove the belt and make sure that the pulley on the back of the blower is connected to the auger and blower fan on the front of the blower. Finally, one easy "oops" is to put the belt too deep on the tractor's PTO so that it is actually BEHIND the PTO pulley. Make sure the belt is in the PTO-pulley groove. BTDT!
As far as the lift for your blower, I can tell you that the bracket on mine will "flop" to that 9-O'clock position if I remove the lift rod like you have in the photo. Grab onto it and try twisting it (with your hand) in a counter-clockwise position. Does it move to about 7-O'Clock before it actually trys to start lifting the blower? If it does, then you're fine. There is supposed to be some "float" in the setup. If not, you may have to do what someone did to mine, which was remove the bracket and reweld it to a more safe 7-O'Clock-ish position.
Either way the lift-set up on these blowers are a poor design. The blowers are FANTASTIC though, so my "someday" plan is to swap out this archaic lift-system for something simple with a Hydraulic ram that runs off of the front outlets on the tractor.
Nothing has been changed on my #450 from the way it came from the factory. These 2-stage blowers should EASILY throw out to a 15-20' distance and could put snow up on the roof of my single-story house. (If we'd ever get some snow!!)
Something is not "right" with your blower.
Could the belt be slipping? Do you have the tension pulley flipped to the "over-center" position so that the belt is tight? If so, I would then remove the belt and make sure that the pulley on the back of the blower is connected to the auger and blower fan on the front of the blower. Finally, one easy "oops" is to put the belt too deep on the tractor's PTO so that it is actually BEHIND the PTO pulley. Make sure the belt is in the PTO-pulley groove. BTDT!
As far as the lift for your blower, I can tell you that the bracket on mine will "flop" to that 9-O'clock position if I remove the lift rod like you have in the photo. Grab onto it and try twisting it (with your hand) in a counter-clockwise position. Does it move to about 7-O'Clock before it actually trys to start lifting the blower? If it does, then you're fine. There is supposed to be some "float" in the setup. If not, you may have to do what someone did to mine, which was remove the bracket and reweld it to a more safe 7-O'Clock-ish position.
Either way the lift-set up on these blowers are a poor design. The blowers are FANTASTIC though, so my "someday" plan is to swap out this archaic lift-system for something simple with a Hydraulic ram that runs off of the front outlets on the tractor.
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- Allen Schumacher
Art, has anyone ever tried to install a linear actuator in front, like a bulldozer has on the front blade?? I know they are a few bucks, but can move a lot of weight.
Aaytay, I checked the tnesion on the belt...that spring did not have tension on it...now it does(becuase I flipped that lever). Did not notice a change in the augar speed though. I will find out the next time it snows. As for the 4 inch lever on the blower that the lift rod connects too....its tight with NO play. I gotta figure out how to fix that slack. I like to avoid welds so I do not have weak spots in the blower. Its almost as if the adjustment in the blower to float up and down is restricting my lift lever. I am kind of discouraged...i made sure i purchased a cub cadet for the quality to avoid the headache's!
proessler
Well-known member
Chad have you verified that U have the correct drive belt for your tractor & snowblower combo ?
Its definitly crossed my mind and a good idea paul. Or just getting a new belt so that way I know its the correct size(i bet the one on there is strectched). But as for know I need to figure out how to get my lever on my blower to 7'oclock. its at 9 'oclock and not any play in it. any ideas?..by the way you guys are helpful!
gentlemen, I figured out how to get my lift lever on the blower itself to 7o'clock. it was a matter of just a few adjustments.It was not set up for much float...now it is. I was inclined to figure it out at 8am when I had to use my yard machine walk behind to snowblow a foot of snow. Thanks for the help Everybody. Does anybody happen to have measurements of the Extention brackets for the lift?I have the threaded bracket on the blower end, but nothing on the tractor end
I am trying to put the 6 in pulley on my 2072 for my 450 blower. Does anybody have a part number for the pulley on the horizontal drive on the 2072? It currently has a 4 in pulley which affects the distance my blower throws. Also any advice on this change would be appreciated
Chad, the 450 is the correct blower for your 2072 with the 4 5/8" PTO. The 451 and 551 blowers require the 6" PTO. BTW, I have run a 451 blower on my 1450 with a 4 5/8" PTO, and it did an OK job for me, and would throw around 12'. If it was the light stuff it could get 15'. What you are describing with 6' of throw tells me that something else is going wrong. The engine needs to be running 3500-3600 RPM. Confirm that the belt is snug and not slipping. As Art pointed out, it is easy to get the belt in the wrong spot behind the PTO. I think we all do that at least once.
Yesterday I bought a model 450 two stage blower for my 782.It was used by the original owner on a 1811
everything seems to match up (pto lift lnk ect)
Has anyone had experience with the two 3/4" quick pins used to hold the carrage to the tractor?
The original owner used 3/4" threaded rod 14" long nutted on both ends. It seemed sloppy and wear on the frame holes had started.It also never had a quick attach 1/2" rod shown in the manual but never installed judging from the paint.
the new parts breakdown shows a 1/2-13 weldnut on the frame and bolts instead of pins. since I have no holes yet I may go that route, but I am not too kean on welding the backside of the frame with the motor in. Any comments would be helpful. I think I will add the quick attach rod as I think it will stiffen things up and help with alignment. the part is nla, but it looks simple enough to fabricate.Do you think that is mild steel or something hardened? Thanks John
everything seems to match up (pto lift lnk ect)
Has anyone had experience with the two 3/4" quick pins used to hold the carrage to the tractor?
The original owner used 3/4" threaded rod 14" long nutted on both ends. It seemed sloppy and wear on the frame holes had started.It also never had a quick attach 1/2" rod shown in the manual but never installed judging from the paint.
the new parts breakdown shows a 1/2-13 weldnut on the frame and bolts instead of pins. since I have no holes yet I may go that route, but I am not too kean on welding the backside of the frame with the motor in. Any comments would be helpful. I think I will add the quick attach rod as I think it will stiffen things up and help with alignment. the part is nla, but it looks simple enough to fabricate.Do you think that is mild steel or something hardened? Thanks John
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