CC 70 engine build ?s

[kclark]

i just got a 70. needs alot of TLC. well i guess il start with the motor. i was wondering what kind of proformance improvment Mr. David Kirk got with the relief cuts and head milling. and could i take a trans out of a cub and use it in my 70 for the use of the rear PTO? what difference does the creaper gear do. and one more, can a creaper gear, rear PTO and sleeve hitch be on the tractor all at once?

 

[dross]

Kevin, You should put this on the main forum. A 70 is a garden tractor. Yes you can put all those on a tractor at the same time.
A creeper takes the input shaft RPM and divides it by 4. It makes all 3 forward gears less than 1 MPH. But that also makes the rear PTO RPM divided by 4. The creeper is used mainly for rototilling and snow blowing.

 

[dfrisk]

KEVIN - To add to what Dave R. said, the K161/K181 engines do respond to the same improvements Dave Kirk did to His Killer Kohlers, but with fewer cubic inches the increase will be less. Most of the performance parts like cams, carbs, and compression increases cater to the big block K241,301,321, & 341 engines but you can perform the valve reliefs to the small engines. Just remember to not spin the stock cast iron flywheels above 4000 RPM.

Also, most CUB transmission components can be used in a Cab Cadet but the input shaft from the Cub's clutch and the rear axles are a lot different. The CUB rearend had the reduction unit for the large tires after the differential, not ahead of the transmission.

 

[kclark]

just took the head off and the piston has .030 stamped on it. the cylinder has real bad scoring and dont think its any good. well i have a 800 quiet line that needs a flex plate so is the flex plate interchangible from the 70 to the 800

 

[dfrisk]

KEVIN - Problem with those little engines (K161/181) is they struggled so hard to pull the tractor & mower ALL the time they wore out sooner than the bigger engines.

There was a discussion last week on the gen'l forum about bore sizes on the K161/181. Your current engine should be 2-7/8" bore plus the .030" O/S, which would allow it to safely be bored/honed out to 2-15/16" standard bore which should be a readily available piston/ring set.

The only problem would still be your buggered up block & crankshaft. I'd still look for a rebuildable K181 with no damaged parts.

I'm not real familiar with Q/L's, but if by "flex-plate" you mean the three-pin driver for the clutch for the transmission, NO, the Q/L is different, made thinner to allow for the engine movement on the rubber mounts, which also means they crack/fail which the normal 3-pin driver on all other GD's after the 70/100 won't do. Maybe somebody with more Q/L experience can give you better advice.

 

[kclark]

well i cant spend anymore money on them so they are going up for sale. any one interested you know were to find them