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Archive through September 30, 2011
- Thread starter eburton
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
mhomrighausen
Well-known member
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- Sep 20, 2001
- Messages
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- displayname
- Marlin Homrighausen
Norm B. Thank You for the reply. Something told me that you haven't fixed it yet. Ssoo... I'll try and get some suggestions. :+)
About home made top link three points. PIPE of any kind is not strong enough. One actually needs to get solid bar stock like the 4140 that Dennis F. mentioned on a driveshaft. Then you need to drill a hole through the center. It is a rather tedious process however very obtainable.
Breaks over... Back to work...
About home made top link three points. PIPE of any kind is not strong enough. One actually needs to get solid bar stock like the 4140 that Dennis F. mentioned on a driveshaft. Then you need to drill a hole through the center. It is a rather tedious process however very obtainable.
Breaks over... Back to work...
rchristensen
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- Aug 12, 2006
- Messages
- 933
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- Richard Christensen
I normally find Jerky Hydros caused by problems in the Trunion area.
If the trunion has been properly repaired and the correct springs installed you should be able to hold the side plate and move the swash plate shaft assembly back and forward 1/8 inch either way with little force. That is the area where the small spring controls the movement and after that the large spring takes over.
If you don't have smooth movement here check that somone hasn't painted the assembly or you have rust between the side plate and the trunion shaft assembly.
The entire hydro control linkage should be checked to insure it is working smoothly and doesn't have a lot of slop in it.
If the trunion has been properly repaired and the correct springs installed you should be able to hold the side plate and move the swash plate shaft assembly back and forward 1/8 inch either way with little force. That is the area where the small spring controls the movement and after that the large spring takes over.
If you don't have smooth movement here check that somone hasn't painted the assembly or you have rust between the side plate and the trunion shaft assembly.
The entire hydro control linkage should be checked to insure it is working smoothly and doesn't have a lot of slop in it.
CHARLIE, KRAIG - In loking at those lift link I bet I can predict exactly where they failed. Back when I made my sleeve hitch for the #72 I didn't have quite the assortment of metal working tools I have now.... And NO, I don't have a 2-1/2 Inch G&L horizontal boring mill like Dan even now, but I could probably fab something up that would last longer than an hour, it wouldn't be "pretty" and it would take a LONG time to make. Granted most welding rod/wire is 60-70K tensile strength but you have to remember that most steel bar, strip, etc is only 36K that your welding together. The IH lift link casting is really beefy where the lift rod attaches to the socket for the pin the lift links to the sleeve hitch attach to. I bet that socket was what failed on ALL those home-made attempts.
Mike E.,
Here is a quote from Matt Gonitzke dated 6/03/08 stating "You'll need either a wiring harness from an 1810/1811, or you'll need to add a relay and a few wires to make the ignition switch work. The major difference between the KT17 and M18 is that the KT has points and a coil, and the M18 has electronic ignition. The reason the wiring needs to be altered is, power is applied to the coil on the KT, but on the Magnum, the ignition switch has to ground the magneto to shut off the engine. No power is applied to the magneto on the Magnum engine".
Just substitute M20 for M18, same engine. I also have a wiring diagram that I got from Steve Blunier. If I can dig it out, I'll send it to you. I used it and my 682 runs great. The part # for the relay is 725-1375.
Here is a quote from Matt Gonitzke dated 6/03/08 stating "You'll need either a wiring harness from an 1810/1811, or you'll need to add a relay and a few wires to make the ignition switch work. The major difference between the KT17 and M18 is that the KT has points and a coil, and the M18 has electronic ignition. The reason the wiring needs to be altered is, power is applied to the coil on the KT, but on the Magnum, the ignition switch has to ground the magneto to shut off the engine. No power is applied to the magneto on the Magnum engine".
Just substitute M20 for M18, same engine. I also have a wiring diagram that I got from Steve Blunier. If I can dig it out, I'll send it to you. I used it and my 682 runs great. The part # for the relay is 725-1375.
Paul Dorow
I know that has been try-ed many times before. I say buy the correct part. I even have one over here and if I can find one i`am sure you can also.
the small drive I added for parking my fiver is completed. This will do the trick.
I found this yellow stone in the drive when I was leveling the stone.(fools gold I think.)
The loader and the power dump make short work of most small jobs around here.IH did build some aw some gear to use.
Today I have 4 yds of top soil to move and seed,I think we are getting a few days of rain. a big blow is heading up here and I wanted to get this done.
but I like my Diesel and wish I would have found an IH built !
I know that has been try-ed many times before. I say buy the correct part. I even have one over here and if I can find one i`am sure you can also.
the small drive I added for parking my fiver is completed. This will do the trick.
I found this yellow stone in the drive when I was leveling the stone.(fools gold I think.)
The loader and the power dump make short work of most small jobs around here.IH did build some aw some gear to use.
Today I have 4 yds of top soil to move and seed,I think we are getting a few days of rain. a big blow is heading up here and I wanted to get this done.
but I like my Diesel and wish I would have found an IH built !
Since we finally got some good rain last weekend, I decided to try and get some fall plowing done. I put my set of "rock hard" old Goodyears on back with set of IH wheel weights mounted on inside of wheels. The old Goodyears are great for plowing dirt but lousy for pushing snow in winter. I have a set of newer superlugs mounted on another set of wheels that I put on for snow pushing. I'd rather chew and nick up the old Goodyears than the superlugs. You never know what you will find plowing other people's gardens. Rocks, bricks, roots, glass, metal, and etc!
Had to have a little bling on the plow tractor. Don't worry. The IH hub caps are not a $400 set. I only have $40 in the set and up close they look it. Perfect set for a worker.
Had to have a little bling on the plow tractor. Don't worry. The IH hub caps are not a $400 set. I only have $40 in the set and up close they look it. Perfect set for a worker.
mhomrighausen
Well-known member
- Joined
- Sep 20, 2001
- Messages
- 3,133
- displayname
- Marlin Homrighausen
Found this somewhat interesting... Generic cabs for lawn & garden tractors. I wonder if it would fit some of the older Cub Cadets.
Can someone please help me out with a hydraulic issue. I put a hydraulic lift on my 147. I have fluid up to the cylinder but the cylinder will not move. Could this be because the hoses are backwards at the cylinder or is there something else I'm missing? My experience with hydraulics is if the hoses from the valve are backwards the lift will just go the opposite of the way you want it to go. I thought it might be air in the lines but I cracked the hose fittings at the valve and cylinder until just fluid would come out. Any help would be appreciated.
Jason H.
My question is, what style of hydraulic lift did you add?
Did you add a ported pump, or did you add the narrow frame external side mount style lift?
Pics would help.
My question is, what style of hydraulic lift did you add?
Did you add a ported pump, or did you add the narrow frame external side mount style lift?
Pics would help.
glippert
Well-known member
Norm - Yep, you're right - it's missing a piece.
