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Archive through September 26, 2012

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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dtanner

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Donald Tanner
Wayne Shytle

yes the tires are new installed , I did give it a new 30 Cab also. I need to pull the 14 K to see if it still has balance gears. I do think it does have them. It will have a new seat some day , but that plastic one won`t get any cracks lol.
 
I dont know where to put this,I'll start here,if its wrong you guys can move it. I need to have myk-241 bored 10 over.I took it to a guy that actually miced it for me ,told me to do it right go ten over. He gave me a price for borin it.After he gazve me a price on a new piston I told him I would go ahead and buy one somwhere else cause it was a lil more then I wanted to spend. He then said I could leave it there and pick it up in a day or two when he got to it. I always thought they need the piston to bvore it.I always heard he does good work but I was startin to rethink it when he said he didnt need the piston.I know he told me hes done a ton of old kohlers over the years.Should I worry or no? Oh yeah on the valves,after you reface them & the seats do you need to lap them in to do it the right way ? I always thought you did.He sad he can pressure test them at 20-25 psi and if they dont leak then he knows they will seal and be good to go. What do I do? He is a tractor / truck repair shop,they do have all the equipment in house.
 
HARRY - I've never owned one but been around a few, but I think the flares in the frame of a 147 are on BOTH sides.
 
Jonathan S - you raised some good questions. I always heard the same as you did, and I'm anxious to hear what others have to say.

Dennis F - you know, I've owned at least 2 and now I really don't remember if the flare was on both sides or not. And for what it's worth, I really hated the electric lift. I don't know how anyone that uses an Armstrong lift, or a Hydraulic lift, can sit on a tractor and flip a switch to use as a lift. I guess I could get used to it if I had power assisted steering, a cab and cab mounted radio, A/C, some type of digital dash game, etc., but then how could I ever enjoy the real seat time on my Cub? If it's your first and only Cub then it's probably easy to get used to. But if it's one of many, well, it sure was difficult for me to use because of the other types of lifts.

Don T - can you get us a pic of the other side of your 147???
 
Both Sides are notched...here's pics of mine
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The second pic dosent show it very well.
 
Ryan M - burrrrrrrrrrrrr that 147 is cold. Yup, I see a flare in the frame right about where the electric lift mount is also attached, and the flywheel is also located. Actually looks like it's a bigger flare than the other side where the coil is. Hey, it looks like you have some type of high-rise seat on it. What's the story? If it's for a bigger battery I always wondered if you put one in there and sat on top, if you'd get a "hot seat" for winter work.

Dennis F - chalk one up for you!!! (My chalk board was already full anyway
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JDS, does the machinist need the piston to do the over bore? No. But he will need the piston to "fit" it to the cylinder. Only because of minor differences between each piston. He can finish hone the cylinder to size once he's holding the piston. If he uses the same brand of piston continuously, then he knows how they "run". usually slightly over or under....

Regarding the lap compound, it should only be used when "re-fitting" a valve into it's seat. If the machinest is running his cutter into the seat and re-grinding the valve face then lapping will waste his efforts.
 
Harry- this 147 was called "king" of PO mods. some of which I really liked. You are correct, this 147 had the optional " lifted" seat, where a full size battery was placed under the seat. To apparently accomodate the large battery, the tractor was totally rewired and an IH farm tractor generator was installed, with a regulator and amp gauge of the same type. (This was not a good mod). The deck has some springs and rollers added which I didn't mind, it was a poor mans spring assist. I found the tractor in someone's shed (had it 10+ years stored inside) for a dirt cheap price (the price included all the dirt shown). I got it rewired some and running, but smoked like a chimney. The PTO clutch is also bad in it. This summer I put new rings in it and got it running like a champ. got the lights fixed, steering fixed, still need to fix the clutch and some of the wiring. This pic was taken a night I got home from ISU this past winter, and ran up to get it. We had a little snow that afternoon and I was just getting it rolled into ER that night. It's going to be a keeper after I get done with it.
 
Here are some photos of the front frame of my 73 and the snow plow from my Cub 70 I want to use on it this winter. How does the plow attach with the quick attach mule drive?
245613.jpg

245614.jpg

245615.jpg
 
Scott, ideally you'd procure a Narrow Frame QA sub-frame... However, you should be able to mount it to the QA mule drive but you'll have to drill two holes in it in a location similar to the holes in the bolt on mule drive in the photo below. Before you drill any holes make sure the cross piece on the QA mule drive does not interfere with the blade sub-frame. The non-QA blade sub-frame was designed to mount either with the extensions you have on it (you'll want to remove those for use with the QA mule drive) or to the bolt on mule drive.

245623.jpg


245624.jpg
 
Yes ,147's have" flares" both sides.(same size) to fit the 14hp engine. and yes Harry, I do like my electric lift especially with a tiller on the back! Something else odd about 147 is the spring on the pto engagement lever, anyone know why?
 
Thanks Frank, that post really helps. I was thinking about makeing my own gasket out of gasket material i have but after reading that post I will buy one.
 
The frame flares were put there so the bigger standard KOHLER flywheel could be used to get more torque.The A models had smaller flywheels to get it in the frame.The wide frames have the bigger flywheels.The 147 was the zenith of the narrow frames .
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Kraig-Can I just buy a mule drive for a model 70 and attach it to my 73, then hook the blade up?
 
Scott R - you can go the route that Kraig suggested but you might also be able to do the following. Find a 1/2" round stock rod about 12" long and place it in the top hole of the ears on your snow blade sub-frame. Then see if you can insert it into the quick attach latch and also get the rear of the sub-frame arms to catch on the frame cross bar mount. If this works you'll have to go back and drill a hole on each end of the rod and use a quick attach cotter pin (some people call them R-clips) to hold the rod from sliding out. I think I've been able to use them this way. I don't think there is a clearance or interference issue but you'll have to try it and see. See how close the blade is to your lower grill housing when the blade is in the full up position. Good luck and let us know how you work it out.
 
Harry and Kraig-is the "sub-frame" the part of the blade that runs under the tractor from the mule drive to the frame cross member? Do either of you have a photo of a QA mule drive with the blade attached (same view Kraig posted of the model 70) How the heck do I get the front of the blade off of the subframe? Thanks for all your help. This is the best place to go with Cubby questions.
 
Hey Hydro Harry-

I was just thinking...if I get this 169 to the point Howard wants to do a total refurb we might have a Hydro Howard on the east coast. It might be difficult because he likes to work the crap out of his stuff. I have found soooooo much that needs attention and have no idea as to how long this is going to take. He brought it to me to fix only the steering but the further we went the more we found. I say "we" because he has helped for a few hours. We are now planning to split it because there is about 3/8" end play in the trunion shaft. That means the swashplate has been dancing all over the place in there. I'm looking forward to just seeing the insides of this pump.
 
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