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Archive through September 19, 2016

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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I've used the gear puller method, but first I put an exhaust clamp loosely around the base of the wheel to distribute the pullers load, rather then making three cracks in the wheel's underside.
 
John, you could always find a hydro cub and keep blower on it, lol. I'm seriously going to do that once I get mine redone. This winter will most likely be a blade only winter. I have to go through the 1200 engine now and install the creeper, might become a 1600....
I might change the blower to fit the 782, short drive with no hills so I'm not worried about grill clearance too much. But we'll see. Your surface matters a lot IMHO as Kraig said. Dad won't use a blower cause his is gravel. He likes the KISS method... Plus I have so many 42 inch blades now. If your OK with the blade, use it!
But don't discount the blower, you'll never know until you try.
And I do know about aging, even at my young age. Bad back gets to me a lot
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I will admit I get more cub freedom than most, being single has its perks!
But I understand those who don't have the ability to have as many cubs as they want(or can fit in the garage!)
John, maybe this can be a good reason for that second cub!!
 
Anthony mine came off using David W's suggestion of exhaust clamp U-Bolt.

I will admit it wasn't "until" my puller started to deform the bottom side of steering wheel before I walked away and read the FAQ's concerning proper removal.....
"Highly Engineered" wood block method looks good also, both of wich avoid Hammers, air or bfh. I probably would have gone w/ the 5/8" fine thread and bfh which would have required trip to hardware store for the fine thread but since I had U-Bolt and puller,,, figured I'd try that before I began swinging hammer towards the little cubby,
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Don't get me wrong I've done plenty of hammering & hacking on the little cub,,,, but since I had ubolt and puller handy,,,
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Did away with the clamp and nuts, just using the u bolt only, I squeezed the threaded ends together w/ bf channel locks to form a tear drop shape under the meat of steering wheel. That way was able to achieve solid flush perpendicular three point pull.

I would have to mention, no matter which method used, key could possibly be penetrating oil before bed, morning before work, and again before pull....
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5/8" fine thread is probably the actual "Proper" method, just thought I would reiterate David's suggestion, options are pretty much always a good thing....,

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Kraig. My drive is gravel, about 200 ft long and 15 ft wide..I have about a 50X75ft parking area..We get both kinds of snow.

Earl...Man I have a 147 that needs a LOT of work that I don't have time for. It has not ran in years, but ran when I parked it..I think it has a knock and I know some element of the hydro or it's control linkage needs work..Gives me a headache thinking about it...Still I store it inside instead of leaving it to the elements to total ruin. It's got a working electric lift!

Gotta go right now though..

Keep it coming fellas!

John
 
John - last winter I was in the same situation as you - longish gravel drive and a blower (although my 124 has a creeper). I ended up buying a 42 inch blade from Lew. I was sick and tired of having to choose between throwing gravel or leaving too much snow on the ground. It didn't help that most of the snow we got in my area last winter was super wet and heavy.

Hope this helps!
 
John, I have both a blade and a thrower and I usually start out with the blade, When I would run out of room to pile snow, I'll put the thrower on and make the piles higher.
 

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