Archive through September 19, 2009

[pvanbenschoten]

I am trying to remove the PTO from my K321A. Maybe I shouldn't do it, but I am trying to overhaul what ever I can.

I can get to the set screws, but it seems that the basket is in the way of getting them all the way out. There are notches in the basket but they don't line up with the set screws. Should I be able to turn something to get them to line up?

The engine is out of the tractor so I can't use the engage/release lever.

 

[mgonitzke]

Paul-

Tap the button in the center of the PTO with a hammer while trying to rotate the clutch on the crankshaft.

 

[sstanton]

I picked this 123 up yesterday. I got it running and it's a little reluctant! I managed to squeeze it in my shed with the 104 and the 106! Suprisingly my wife didnt even mutter a word! It came with a 42 inch deck that needs alot of help and a trip blade that could use a clean up but overall its not in bad shape. I do need to get rid of the giant balloon tires on the back and put the right rims and tires on it.

 

[jott]

Paul, The way i do it is take a pulley puller, put a socket of appropriate size in the center, and put the puller over the pto. Then,"tighten" the crank of the puller with the socket over the wear button. That way, you can turn the pto as many times as you need to. I can get you some pics if you need them.

Scott S, what size are those "flotation" tires?

 

[wshytle]

Paul B - Do like Matt says but you might want to grab the pulley with your left hand and put a constant clockwise pressure (in the case with the picture posted) on it while you tap the thrust button with a small hammer. By pushing, or in this case tapping the thrust button you relieve the spring pressure for an instant each tap. What you want to do is align the set screw holes with the slots, or "indentions" cut in the basket. Once one is aligned, all 3 are aligned. then you can just turn the crank, basket and all to get to the three sets of screws. I'd shoot some PB Blaster or something of the like in each hole and give it a few minutes to work. Also, I always get a dental pick and compressed air to clean the hex part of the allen srews (blow out each hole). It's a good idea to do this first then add the PB. After that, get your 1/8" allen wrench and a pair of pliers and go to work. When the engine is in the tractor you can use the pto rockshaft to push the thrust button and relieve pressure to turn and align. Be careful not to damage the wear button if you ever use this method. They will break in a heartbeat. Hope this helps....

 

[rdehli]

Got a question for the guys running the 44a and 50 a decks on Quietline tractors my 50 a deck on my 1650 doesn't seem to cut real well got good sharp blades ... I have tried raising and lowering the deck and changing my speed but it doesn't help my deck serial # is 58881 with a 5" center pulley ...any thoughts would be helpful

 

[sstanton]

Josh O. Those "floatation" tires are 29 or 26X12.00-12! They are huge! They look like they should go on a Lowboy! Ride pretty smooth though!

 

[rwilke]

Paul VB.,
I do not dispute you or your dads memory regarding whether or not that K321A is the original engine to that tractor nor am I trying to "stir the pot" in any way. I'm merely pointing out what the Spec# code you provided indicates. The Spec codes can be determined here: http://cubfaq.com/k321specs.html

As you can see from the table link, the Spec code #6099 does NOT indicate it was intended for tractor installation/use. I'm only saying what the table is saying.......

As far as the yellow or black paint, I'd say it could have been painted yellow at the dealership?... who knows what happened back in 1970/71 at the dealership.


Regarding the turning of your PTO clutch and set screw removal, I prefer using a similar method explained by Josh Ott earlier tonight. You can also simply use a large nut instead of a socket along with the gear puller. Once you've been able to loosen the set screws, you can turn the PTO allowing the set screws to fall out of their tapped hole or what I sometimes use is a magnet on the side of the allen wrench which in turn will slightly magnetize the wrench and the set screw will adhere to the wrench and follow it out of its bore.

Good Luck!
Ryan Wilke

 

[theaton]

I got this one hole mount Brinly plow from my bother a couple months back, and tried her out this evening. I "think" this is an 8 inch plow. The 128 had no problems at all. I gotta get to a plow day.......

 

[rwilke]

Fellas,

1) What snowblower came with a 1650?

2) Will a 1650 snowblower fit onto an 86 or 126 NF cub fairly easily or not?

I'm not looking for specific differences just yet, at this point I'm just wondering if it requires much modifying or very little modifying to make the swap work.

Thanks in advance for your experienced guidance, Guys!

Ryan Wilke

 

[bbrigham]

Been lookin at different tires for the 73 and came across these Denman Farm Hand A/P tubeless. They come in 5x12 and 6x12, and of course the full size. They have a dealer not to far from me that I didn't know was there. Little pricey at $87 each but I like em, guess I better start savin.

Ryan....QA36A or QA42A. I believe they will fit both with some adjustments.

 

[dross]

Ryan, You have to take 4 bolts out of the brackets/gear box. adjust the brackets either to the wide or narrow position for the desired tractor, replace the bolts. When you install the blower on the tractor the tightener slides the gearbox away from the PTO to tighten the belt. When you have the belt tight, tighten the 4 bolts. I don't know off hand if the lift arms are the same length, worse case, you may need 2.

 

[dtanner]

Todd Heaton (Theaton) well i`am lost here, I thought the 129 had the Red stripe.! Well i can`t believe my good luck yesterday, I put my 22.5 ft bumper pull trailer on Kijiji and sold it before noon the next day. The better half grabber the 7 gs and put in the bank before I could think D Cub lol. Later Don T

 

[rmclements]

I found me another project this afternoon! Now I have THREE cubs to get running.

Oh well...it sure is exciting to get new toys!!

 

[jbaker]

I just checked my 128 and 129 both have a red stripe above the black stripe

 

[rwilke]

Brendan B.,
Thanks for the correct snowblower model numbers!

Dave R.,
Thanks for the outlined install procedures!

--- THIS PLACE IS THE BEST!!

Ryan Wilke

 

[mgonitzke]

Don T.-

That IS a red stripe in his picture...I think your monitor colors might be a bit off.

 

[mgwin]

Hello from North Carolina,
It is nice to see those 128's posted in the forum. I purchased a 128 in order to plow my garden(my front tine tiller was killing me). What started out as a few repairs quickly turned into a full blown restoration. It has been four months since purchasing this cub, and it is around 3/4 complete.Yes, I have contracted the cubcadetitis disease! Every waking hour finds me working on this project. My patience is wearing thin. The urge to rush this project is eating me alive. Is there any thing a man can do to conquer this urge?
from a Cub Cadet enthusiast,
mgwin

 

[bbrigham]

Marty...Welcome to CA<font size="-2">(Cubaholics Anonymous)</font>. The only thing that will help is to buy another one, not one of those funny z grilled things but a 70/100 or 1x2.

 

[glippert]

Today I decided to check out the carb on the 147 I got a couple weeks ago. PO said it fired and ran a little when he shot gas into the carb, so I figured it's just a blocked fuel line or gummed up carb. Fuel line was fine, but as I suspected, the float was stuck, jets plugged, throttle & choke shafts sticking, etc. Unfortunately, I also discovered the linkage at the top of the throttle shaft was sloppy loose. Turns out the top of the shaft is all mucked up/worn. Also, the bushing is wallowed egg shaped, so the shaft wiggles freely.

This is a K341 engine in a 147 (Mar 1970, I think). I've looked through the archives but I'm never certain if I'm understanding everything. One post refers to a Model 30 carb. There's a 30 stamped inside the throat of the choke - does that mean mine is a model 30?

More importantly, some of the posts refer to machining parts, but I don't have a lathe or a lot of other fancy shop equipment (although I do have a drill press). Is this a difficult repair?

I think I need to replace the throttle shaft because of the damage to the top of it, plus I twisted off the screws while trying to remove the throttle plate. As you can see in the pictures, the PO repaired the choke lever/choke shaft, and it is now missing the detent ball at the other end of the choke shaft.

So... can I get a new throttle shaft with screws for the plate, detent ball for the choke cable, and multi-layered washer (as shown in the FAQS) to sit on top of the worn out bushing? Oh, also a bushing for the clamp-on style linkage?