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Archive through September 19, 2005
- Thread starter jsmartin
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
GENTLEMEN, GENTLEMEN, GENTLEMEN!!!
In regard to running 30 weight engine oil in a Cub Cadet transmission, here is the "distillation" of what I have heard so far:
1) We all know that REAL men can remember a shift pattern and so they buy GEAR DRIVE machines; not hydro's. Consequently, I bought an old 122 (gear drive) to tinker with. I probably should have been more clear on that. One of you figured that out by looking at my profile ... he gets an "A" for diligence!
2) I had never even considered -mixing- engine oil with transmission fluid or hydraulic oil. Doing that would be like asking your transmission lubricant to instantly turn into swamp slop. Note however that adding a quart of transmission fluid to your car engine oil and idling the engine for a while is the fastest way to de-sludge a dirty engine that I know of!!!
3) Virtually all 30 weight engine oils today are detergent. Try to find one that isn't; you'll have a very hard time.
4) I also have a Farmall Super "A" (note again, NOT a hydro!!!). It, per the manual, runs 90 weight in the transmission. One of you spoke about having to let Farmall H's and M's with 90 weight in the transmission warm up a bit before ripping down buildings with them. I always do that ... out of kindness to the 57 year old Super "A". I have heard old guys say that they have seen old Farmalls with so much water in the transmissions that they froze in cold weather and had to be warmed up -externally- in order to melt the ice in the transmission so that the warmed up engine could move the tractor at all.
5) If you look at the history of the REAL (gear drive) Cub Cadets you find that the transmission was taken directly out of a Farmall Cub when the market for small farm tractors began to dwindle. If you don't believe that, just look at the gear shift lever on a Farmall Cub sometime. It looks like it was stolen off a Cub Cadet! How many Farmall Cubs do you think are running around with Hy-Tran in their transmissions? Well, OK. -MAYBE- the "Keeper Of The Holy Hy-Tran" has one, but I'll bet there aren't many others. I'll bet there are a whole bunch of Farmall Cubs running around with 90 weight in their "Cub Cadet Transmissions".
6) The real reason for considering using 30 weght engine oil in the transmission, and yes, in the creeper planetary GEAR drive also, was not cost. The cost difference doesn't amount to a hill of beans in the grand scheme of things. The real reason for doing this is S-I-M-P-L-I-C-I-T-Y!!! Think about it ..... three places on the Cub Cadet that use oil (engine, transmission and creeper drive), and they all use the same oil: 30 weight engine oil. Wouldn't that be simple!?
7) About now you are undoubtedly saying, "Gee, this guy says he can remember a shifting pattern, but, now he says he can't remember which oil to put where on the Cub Cadet. He must be a real bone head". I -DO- wish you would stop thinking about my grandsons like that! Need I say any more?
Thanks for ALL of the discussion on the subject. I think I know what I'm going to do when I get to cleaning out and refilling the transmission and the creeper drive.
Len Siebert
P.S. The sissy Cub Cadets should all use Hy-Tran in their transmissions; just like I do in the hydraulic system on the Farmall Super "A"! (That should make the KOTHH happy!)
In regard to running 30 weight engine oil in a Cub Cadet transmission, here is the "distillation" of what I have heard so far:
1) We all know that REAL men can remember a shift pattern and so they buy GEAR DRIVE machines; not hydro's. Consequently, I bought an old 122 (gear drive) to tinker with. I probably should have been more clear on that. One of you figured that out by looking at my profile ... he gets an "A" for diligence!
2) I had never even considered -mixing- engine oil with transmission fluid or hydraulic oil. Doing that would be like asking your transmission lubricant to instantly turn into swamp slop. Note however that adding a quart of transmission fluid to your car engine oil and idling the engine for a while is the fastest way to de-sludge a dirty engine that I know of!!!
3) Virtually all 30 weight engine oils today are detergent. Try to find one that isn't; you'll have a very hard time.
4) I also have a Farmall Super "A" (note again, NOT a hydro!!!). It, per the manual, runs 90 weight in the transmission. One of you spoke about having to let Farmall H's and M's with 90 weight in the transmission warm up a bit before ripping down buildings with them. I always do that ... out of kindness to the 57 year old Super "A". I have heard old guys say that they have seen old Farmalls with so much water in the transmissions that they froze in cold weather and had to be warmed up -externally- in order to melt the ice in the transmission so that the warmed up engine could move the tractor at all.
5) If you look at the history of the REAL (gear drive) Cub Cadets you find that the transmission was taken directly out of a Farmall Cub when the market for small farm tractors began to dwindle. If you don't believe that, just look at the gear shift lever on a Farmall Cub sometime. It looks like it was stolen off a Cub Cadet! How many Farmall Cubs do you think are running around with Hy-Tran in their transmissions? Well, OK. -MAYBE- the "Keeper Of The Holy Hy-Tran" has one, but I'll bet there aren't many others. I'll bet there are a whole bunch of Farmall Cubs running around with 90 weight in their "Cub Cadet Transmissions".
6) The real reason for considering using 30 weght engine oil in the transmission, and yes, in the creeper planetary GEAR drive also, was not cost. The cost difference doesn't amount to a hill of beans in the grand scheme of things. The real reason for doing this is S-I-M-P-L-I-C-I-T-Y!!! Think about it ..... three places on the Cub Cadet that use oil (engine, transmission and creeper drive), and they all use the same oil: 30 weight engine oil. Wouldn't that be simple!?
7) About now you are undoubtedly saying, "Gee, this guy says he can remember a shifting pattern, but, now he says he can't remember which oil to put where on the Cub Cadet. He must be a real bone head". I -DO- wish you would stop thinking about my grandsons like that! Need I say any more?
Thanks for ALL of the discussion on the subject. I think I know what I'm going to do when I get to cleaning out and refilling the transmission and the creeper drive.
Len Siebert
P.S. The sissy Cub Cadets should all use Hy-Tran in their transmissions; just like I do in the hydraulic system on the Farmall Super "A"! (That should make the KOTHH happy!)
Well it looks like I will not be attending any cub cadet events or plowdays any time soon.
My cub hauler( 91 Toyota 4cly ) spit out the bottom timeing gear and the shop wants $2500 to repair it.
Hopefully befor the next plowday event in Ia or MN I will have another reliable mode of transportation to haul my cub and plow with.
Some of you might rember I showed up last time at Travis's place driveing a Geo metro, which had 200,000 miles on it, well it only made it to 210,000 miles befor giveing up.
Maybe I could transplant the motor in my 122 into the truck, naw, to much work, I know I will just toss the plow into the trailer, toss in a gas can and head out to Ia 3 weeks inadvance of plowday, I should make it there by then, after all its only 5 hours by car, how long should it it take on a cub going full throttle.
Alright enough rambling on, time to sign off the computer and finish up my work so I can go home in 20 minutes.
My cub hauler( 91 Toyota 4cly ) spit out the bottom timeing gear and the shop wants $2500 to repair it.
Hopefully befor the next plowday event in Ia or MN I will have another reliable mode of transportation to haul my cub and plow with.
Some of you might rember I showed up last time at Travis's place driveing a Geo metro, which had 200,000 miles on it, well it only made it to 210,000 miles befor giveing up.
Maybe I could transplant the motor in my 122 into the truck, naw, to much work, I know I will just toss the plow into the trailer, toss in a gas can and head out to Ia 3 weeks inadvance of plowday, I should make it there by then, after all its only 5 hours by car, how long should it it take on a cub going full throttle.
Alright enough rambling on, time to sign off the computer and finish up my work so I can go home in 20 minutes.
bmcmeen
Well-known member
- Joined
- Oct 31, 2002
- Messages
- 2,106
- displayname
- Bryan D. McMeen, Keeper of the Holy Hy-Tran
Len S. -
Fortunately, I don't lose sleep over what anyone puts in their tranny, not even what you put in your Farmall A's.
And there's no Farmall Cub here - if you were diligent and looked at my profile you'd notice that
It seems that you already made up your mind before you got here.
Fortunately, I don't lose sleep over what anyone puts in their tranny, not even what you put in your Farmall A's.
And there's no Farmall Cub here - if you were diligent and looked at my profile you'd notice that
It seems that you already made up your mind before you got here.
Attachments
Dale Reid
In an earlier post you asked about cleaning up grease and goop on your snow blower. I recommend any one of the readily available purple cleaners available at Advance, Auto Zone, and Pep Boys. My first hobby, my VW based dune buggy has me looking for aluminum safe degreasers. While I have found a few but do not have parts cleaner (tank) I look for All Purpose type Cleaners that are safe and do not represent petroleum type hazzards. The purple cleaners are great. They can be diluted or used straight to adjust their strength. I have found them to be safe on paint and aluminum and rubber. I would say you should remove the heaviest of the accumulation spray on the cleaner scrub with a bristle brush and hose off. I think you will be satisfied with the results.
In an earlier post you asked about cleaning up grease and goop on your snow blower. I recommend any one of the readily available purple cleaners available at Advance, Auto Zone, and Pep Boys. My first hobby, my VW based dune buggy has me looking for aluminum safe degreasers. While I have found a few but do not have parts cleaner (tank) I look for All Purpose type Cleaners that are safe and do not represent petroleum type hazzards. The purple cleaners are great. They can be diluted or used straight to adjust their strength. I have found them to be safe on paint and aluminum and rubber. I would say you should remove the heaviest of the accumulation spray on the cleaner scrub with a bristle brush and hose off. I think you will be satisfied with the results.
A couple of weeks ago I was working on the 149's hydro linkages to correct the speed control problems I have been having. I compared the bracket and linkage dimensions to the drawings in FAQ and found them to be only slightly worn but the larger spring was 1/4 to 1/2 inch shorter than the slot in which it resides. The pics in the FAQ seems to show the larger of the 2 trunion springs to be the same length as the slot. I found a spring at my local hardware store with the same spring rate and size. I cut the spring to be the same length as the slot and reassembled everything. I still need to adjust the neutral postion but the speed remains constant once set regardless of whether I'm going up hill or down. Should the larger spring be the full length of the slot or have I effectively made a solid connection of the linkage points?
Also, does anyone know of any good sources of Cub Cadet parts/implements new and used in the VA area. Many times larger implements are not shippable and travel to the midwest is not likely.
Also, does anyone know of any good sources of Cub Cadet parts/implements new and used in the VA area. Many times larger implements are not shippable and travel to the midwest is not likely.
Did anyone see the double plow setup the one guy is working on at WFM?
Double Plow setup at WFM
A few of you guys could use something like that (especially the larger smokers).
(Message edited by rmunday on September 20, 2005)
Double Plow setup at WFM
A few of you guys could use something like that (especially the larger smokers).
(Message edited by rmunday on September 20, 2005)
J
jkrol
Guest
Recently bought a 1968 cub 104. It runs and drives very well, except, it does not want to stop, when brake is applied.
Also, the turning radius is greater to the left, than to the right. Any suggestions, where to start lokking for solutions to these problems? Thank You
Also, the turning radius is greater to the left, than to the right. Any suggestions, where to start lokking for solutions to these problems? Thank You
RICK - Guy by the name of John Proeschel bolted a couple Brinly's together like that for PD #1. Nobody could pull it more than a couple inches deep. L&G tractors just don't have enough weight to pull that kind of load. Two 10" or 12"bottoms being pulled with a 1000-1200# tractor with 10 to 20 HP, while a Farmall H was a good 2-bottom tractor in most conditions, and had a shipping weight of 4000+#, 152 cid, and Nebraska rated at around 26 HP.
trentschler
Well-known member
- Joined
- Sep 10, 2002
- Messages
- 63
- displayname
- Tom Rentschler
John,
On your 104, there will be 2 bolts that mount your steering column. One of them is probably gone, or gone totally. Replace, or tighten. Also, you may need to make a clutch adjustment... Guys am I right on this? Remember, I'm still a novice.
On your 104, there will be 2 bolts that mount your steering column. One of them is probably gone, or gone totally. Replace, or tighten. Also, you may need to make a clutch adjustment... Guys am I right on this? Remember, I'm still a novice.
John, you need to adjust the drag link, this is the rod that connects from the steering box to the top of the left spindle. the brakes are also in need of adjustment and/or the brake pad (actually a puck) needs replacement. If you get a Operator's Manual and or a Service Manual these adjustments are described in them. You should be able to do the steering adjustment without the manuals, just experiment with it by shortening or lengthening the rod. Loosen the jam nut on each end and rotate the rod one way or the other until it turns equally to the left and to the right then tighten the jam nuts.
Kraig,
With all this bagger talk, I figured I would give the 123 a workout and put the Peco on it to see how it would do. No more raking leaves for me!!!!
Here's a little video the wife took.
CLICK HERE
With all this bagger talk, I figured I would give the 123 a workout and put the Peco on it to see how it would do. No more raking leaves for me!!!!
Here's a little video the wife took.
CLICK HERE
rchristensen
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 12, 2006
- Messages
- 933
- displayname
- Richard Christensen
Chuck Jackson
The heavy spring should be shorter than the length of the slot. The small spring holds the pins aginst both ends and the large spring is shorter and doesn't come into play right away unless you jam the control fast forward or backward. If you make it solid you will have a jerky operation. I have seen rust or paint cause the trunion bracket and the side plate to be locked together and the operation is terrible.
Here is a picture of the bracket and you can see the small spring holds the pins against both ends and there is some distance between the end of the heavy spring and the pin. I think a distance of 1/4 to 1/2 would be quite a bit, seems to me it is more in the 1/8 to 1/4 inch space.
The heavy spring should be shorter than the length of the slot. The small spring holds the pins aginst both ends and the large spring is shorter and doesn't come into play right away unless you jam the control fast forward or backward. If you make it solid you will have a jerky operation. I have seen rust or paint cause the trunion bracket and the side plate to be locked together and the operation is terrible.
Here is a picture of the bracket and you can see the small spring holds the pins against both ends and there is some distance between the end of the heavy spring and the pin. I think a distance of 1/4 to 1/2 would be quite a bit, seems to me it is more in the 1/8 to 1/4 inch space.
