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Archive through September 17, 2007

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Jim - That's the parts then because mine (that I rebuilt) was a 127.
 
Kraig-
You were racking up so many brownie points there.
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First you removed the axle, then you took the spindles apart and degreased it for me, but then it all went to heck when you said the part about wanting to keep your carpet clean.
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LOL!
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Yea, I'm kind of wondering what to do now that I see that the replacement axle has groves in it already. The current axle under my 169 must have broke and been braized back together at some point. I'll try to get some pictures of it tonight so the group can decide which axle is best.

I'm thinking that axle you have would be fine if a guy took a grinder and smoothed out all of the stress risers in those grooves. Maybe you can do that for me tonight...
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Jim T-
I've used that Chain-PTO-removal method before with lots of success as I was just about ready to throw the entire tractor in the dumpster, I'd tried to remove that PTO for so long.

I found that I had to attach the loose end of the chain to something solid, I chose the rear hitch on my truck.

Wrap the chain around the PTO groove, get the chain tight, then push the tractor about 2-3" toward the truck and pull it back. "POP"...the PTO came right off!

Ken-
The front axle on your cubbie isn't the only thing with a hole in it...
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Off to shine up the lawn-chair for Plow Day.....
 
Art - I know where the other hole is ... it's in your pants from "shinning up the lawn chair". You gonna be like Kraig and sit back smoking cigars and sipping HY-TRAN when there's work to be done ?
 
KENtucky, way to give to to Art!
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Hey, wait a minute,
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I think you were ripping on me too....
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<font size="-2">So many emoticons, so little time.......</font>
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Art, I meant to write that I didn't want you to get grease on the carpet in YOUR vehicle.
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Art, I could grind that area of the axle down but it'd look better if I filled it with JB <font size="-2">can't</font>Weld and painted it.....
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Dang, there go the brownie points I just earned back.
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I have to admit that when I envision these PTO removal methods I have to laugh a little. I wonder if these methods are in the IH manual
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???? My problem is that the engine is not in the tractor so I can't just hook up to the PTO. I will have to secure the engine somehow. The tractor is in ittie bittie pieces right now.
 
Jim-
Put the engine on the tailgate of your truck. Hook up the PTO to the hitch with a chain, then drive around until the engine falls out.
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If you don't own a truck with a tailgate, just throw it out the window...
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Jim - Simple (stratight out of the IH repair manual ... NOT!)

Sit the engine on the kitchen table and use a 6" cast iron C-clamp to secure it to the table.

Wrap a heavy dog chain (not the retractable kind) around the pulley groove.

Go to the refrigerator and open the door back to the mid point, attach dog chain to refrigerator door handle.

Slam door shut!
 
KENtucky, you forgot a step.......

Go to the refrigerator and open the door back to the mid point, attach dog chain to refrigerator door handle.

Remove beverage from refrigerator.

Slam door shut!

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Jim, I think the slide hammer method will work OK even with the engine out of the chassis, just not as easily. The chain and yank method however may not work so well.
 
Man I'm laughing so hard at this.

How exactly do you explain to the officer why it is that you are dragging a 70 lb. engine bouncing around behind your truck???

Or better yet.......What do you say when your wife walks in and sees you standing there with your engine on the table and the refrigerator door handle in your hand??
 
JIM T. - Last PTO clutch I had to remove I slid the S/G pulley back a bit and just used a gear puller on it. The jacking screw of the puller butted up against the "Thrust Button for Pulley, # 473477R2 which is the shiny surface in the center of the nicely painted PTO clutch Charlie posted the picture of. The whole assembly was painted white from the factory, Not the two-tone white with yellow throw-out levers and triangular spring like that one however. Once the pilot bearing clears the end of the shaft the locking collar loses it's grip and it falls right off.

Couple years ago I had to rebuild the PTO clutch on the 129....and the setscrews fought Me but I finally won....That PTO clutch got rebuilt with 5/16" setcrews! Larger hex allen wrench fits them!
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Jim T.,

#1. Bad brakes....
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#2.
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Then again, it depends on how long you've been married....
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OK, I confess, for that last one I just wanted to use that "noob" emoticon.
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Jim, maybe this would be better moved to the Machine Shop, but when I work on motors not attached to tractors, I have a few oak plank "blanks" that have the necessary bolt patterns to mount the engine. I have holes in the corners of these blanks to secure them to the 2x4 subframe of my bench. Basically the same principle as that thing the "Tool Dock" with the interchangable tools, only I do it with engine bolt plates. I also have my bench lag-screwed to the wall, so no matter how much I pound on or pull against I don't have to worry about it tipping over either. I don't know what your shop setup is, but this is just an idea on how you can secure the engine to use the slide hammer.
 
Lets see now if a guy has to remove the PTO on a Quietline how does he do it?????????? Oh yea....He removes the bolts and disconnects the wire. Sounds a lot easier doesn't it.
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KEntucky, you mean our fun?
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The edit button is a wonderful thing.
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(I think my grandson's photo was the victim of the 'archive bug' I've read about in the past, so here goes again...)

My 20 month old grandson loves grandpa's tractor. What can I say - the boy's got class! (Must come from grandma's side!) Guess I better start shopping now for a Cub for him to drive when he can reach the controls.
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