Archive through September 17, 2007

[jthompson]

Ryan W.

Yes. I do realize that there are a pair of set screws in each hole. As far as I can tell two of the holes have the set screws and one hole has nothing. I guess I could just replace the pair that are missing. However, I was thinking that if I ever did have a problem with this PTO it would be much easier to correct this issue of stubborn set screws while the engine is out of the tractor. My plan was to remove all old set screws and go back with all new ones. That way if I ever did have to tear it down it would be much easier to deal with. Ideas/thoughts?

 

[dfrisk]

JIM - Yes the PTO was painted....the pulley/hub, clutch levers, screws, etc. was white when new, and the S/G pulley & drive cone was yellow. Mask the V-belt groove and the thrust buttons and once You get the clutch off also mask the bore that slides over the Pilot bearing the PTO attaches to.
The PTO pulley will stay on with only two sets of setscrews...but I agree....replace them now. Kroil, PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench, etc. into the setscrew holes, tap the allen wrench while try to turn them out, maybe a bit of heat, make sure the allen wrench is new or in excellent shape...and if all else fails drill them out and chase the threads with a new 1/4"-20 tap.

 

[kweaver]

Jim - That FAQ PTO is the same as yours, it's my pic. If the holes aren't full of crud then someone has been there before you and cracked out the sides of the allen hole. IF you have to get it off, a makeshift slide hammer setup will pull it off the crank.

 

[rwilke]

Jim T.,
I concur with Dennis. He hit all the points!

Be patient, take your time & Good Luck!
Ryan W

 

[jthompson]

Dennis,

White paint where white arrows are?
No paint where red arrow is?

 

[digger]

Jim T.
You just gotta paint it.

 

[digger]

Drive pulley is yellow.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Jim T., the LAST thing you want to try is drilling them out, BTDT didn't have much success.

A slide hammer WILL remove the PTO from the crankshaft however.

For your sake I hope I'm wrong, but my guess is that a previous owner attempted to remove the PTO and got one set of setscrews out and messed up the other two.

Got tired of cutting firewood this weekend so I decided to take a break and play around with some of my Cub Cadets. After the recent discussion on narrow frame and wide frame axles and spindles I realized I didn't have any good comparison photos and I think you all know how much I like photos, sooooooo, I decided to remedy that.

Besides, I needed to remove a Wide Frame axle from a parts 149 that I have that a good friend of mine wants for a project he's working on and I don't want him to be waiting on me.

Hey Art, tag you're it!

Here is a photo of a wide frame axle and spindles in the foreground and a narrow frame axle and spindles in the background. Keep in mind that the axles are upside down.

Here is a photo that shows the spindles with a little more detail. Again the WF axle/spindle is in the foreground and the NF axle/spiindle is in the background and they are upside down.

Being the good friend that I am I decided to do a little degreasing to the WF axle. The narrow frame axle in this photo is one that I picked up from another friend a few years back. NF axle on top, WF axle on the bottom.

Another view. This time the WF axle is on top.

And another view.

 

[jthompson]

Stupid Question: What is a "slide hammer"?

 

[aschumacher]

Sure can see the grooves from belt/pully on those axles. No wonder some snap in extreme situations.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Jim T., a SLIDE HAMMER is a basically a rod with a sliding weight and various jaws and other attachment 'do-hickies' that attach to a pulley or whatever. I believe that's the technical description.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Allen, oh yeah!

 

[jthompson]

Ok maybe this will be the last PTO question: Are you "slide hammer" guys saying that even if I can't get the set screws out, the slide hammer will still be able to force the PTO off?

 

[kweaver]

That's still to good for your "friend" even with the wear grooves

Jim - Mac , a long forgotten member said that he used a chain wrapped around the pulley groove and stood back and gave it a jerk. Be warned that if you try that it'll take your knees out if you're not quick.


YEP

 

[kweaver]

You think belt/idler grooves weaken the old <FONT COLOR="ff0000">I</FONT><FONT COLOR="000000">H</FONT> front axles , take a look at what my MTD Cub Cadet 2166 has to deal with.

Look at the red area ...

 

[kmcconaughey]

KENtucky, that "friend" might not want it now that he can see the grooves.

don't tell my "friend" but the main reason I de-greased that axle wasn't to be nice, I didn't want to take a chance getting grease on the carpet in my vehicle and a clean axle made for better photos.

KENtucky, yeah for you again, I do believe it was J.S. that suggested the "chain and yank" method, not MAC.

Jim T., don't bother with the "chain and yank" method, it might work for you, but I gave it a try and it didn't work for me. I ended up buying the slide hammer, hey ya can never have too many tools!

And, yes, even with the set screws still in, a slide hammer WILL pull the PTO off. You'll still have to work to get the set screws out but you can pick up a different PTO and work on the old one when you get a chance allowing it to soak in PB Blaster or other penetrating oil. And once you have those pesky set screws out you can rebuild it to have on the shelf for your next Cub Cadet refurbish or just in case your "new" PTO gives out 15 years from now.

 

[kweaver]

Kraig - It was Mac. He told me several times over the phone that he did it that way when I was working on a tool to guide a drill bit for drilling out the set screws and to use as a slide hammer if need be.

Jim - If you "slide it off" then you can put it on a drill press or milling machine to better drill out the screws.

 

[kweaver]

Jim - This should be the rebuild parts for your PTO ... but I'm not sure since I've forgot which one you're working on but like I said earlier yours looks like mine.

IH-60071-C91 bearing
IH-473475-R1 SNAP RING
IH-455102-R1 COLLAR W/SET SCREW AND LOCK NUT BRG
order 759-3490 disc-friction
IH-473477-R2 BUTTON THRUST FOR PULLEY
IH-473483-R1 BUTTON WEAR FOR THE LEVER

 

[kmcconaughey]

KENtucky, dang,

you are correct! I hate having to write that!

<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>

Posted by J. S. on May 20, 2002:


OK, Kraig, you take a long chain and wrap it around the PTO pulley groove. Use a bolt and nut through the chain to tighten it into the groove. If all the set screws are out, you should be able to whip the chain and the PTO clutch casting will come right off.

If not all screws are out, or if it's real stuck, then use a U-shaped loop of chain from one side of the piece fastened in the pulley groove to the
other. Then attach a chain to the center of that loop, and hook it to a second CC or truck. Chock the wheels and lock the brake of the sick CC,
then jerk the chain taught with yer pull machine. Last resort, but it works.

Best way to help it off is to spray Blaster from Wally World into each set screw hole and let it do its magic first.

Chain trick was learned from a helluva Cub Cadet man named McGiver. Don't see him on here much anymore.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>

 

[jthompson]

Kentucky,

It's a 126.