-
This community needs YOUR help today. With the ever increasing fees of everything (server, software, domain, e-mail) , we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of IH Cub Cadets. You get a lot of great new account perks including access to private forums. If you sign up for annual, I will ship a few IH Cub Cadet Forum decals too in addition to all the account perks you get. You can see what it looks like below.
Sign up here: https://www.ihcubcadet.com/account/upgrades
Archive through September 16, 2012
- Thread starter thoffman
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
I tried to post this earler and it would not post the pictures. So I deleted the whole post. going to try again.
This 1200 has been down for 10 to 11 years for a rebuild.
The engine has not been touched other than some WD40 sprayed into the cylinder about once a year and turned the engine by hand.
Added items: Creeper, relined Brake pads,Stainless foot plates,new wiring for Headlites tail lights Rear flood light and ACC plug for Lawn Sprayer that will be installed later.
I have also added a sleeve hitch back before I took it out of sevice.
I started the engine today on the first try.
This 1200 has been down for 10 to 11 years for a rebuild.
The engine has not been touched other than some WD40 sprayed into the cylinder about once a year and turned the engine by hand.
Added items: Creeper, relined Brake pads,Stainless foot plates,new wiring for Headlites tail lights Rear flood light and ACC plug for Lawn Sprayer that will be installed later.
I have also added a sleeve hitch back before I took it out of sevice.
I started the engine today on the first try.
jchamberlin
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 19, 2010
- Messages
- 1,842
- Location
- Farmville, North Carolina
- displayname
- Jeremiah Chamberlin
Frank: Looks good! I like your "tail" light, how have you got it mounted to the frame? And what is the little box next to the conduit? I don't see standard tail lights; but since you have the working light installed, I assume that your tractor has head lights, too.
By-the-way, the moderators like it if you add a hard return after each picture (I don't know why), they complain loudly when you don't.
By-the-way, the moderators like it if you add a hard return after each picture (I don't know why), they complain loudly when you don't.
Frank, you got bit by the archive bug, that's why your photos did not post. Your 1200 is looking good!
Did you use a variation of David Kirk's rear work light design? It looks quite similar. Here's David's:
And one more of David's work light.
Kraig: Thank you. I used Dave's plan for the rear light. I made mine out of Stainless steel.
Jeremiah: I used the mounting bolt holes for the Spring Assist. That little box next to the conduit is the Spring Assist bracket.
I have not installed the tail lights and head lights at this time. I have them and will be installing them.
By-the-way, the moderators like it if you add a hard return after each picture (I don't know why), they complain loudly when you don't.
What is a hard return
Jeremiah: I used the mounting bolt holes for the Spring Assist. That little box next to the conduit is the Spring Assist bracket.
I have not installed the tail lights and head lights at this time. I have them and will be installing them.
What is a hard return
Frank, a hard return would be pressing the "Enter" or "Return" key on the keyboard after each image. I already added them to you post. The reason for doing so is that with some internet browsers the photos will appear end to end and the screen will go way wide. Pressing enter after each will stack them vertically.
Charlie ask so I do !
I started a discussion on a locking rear dif on a garden tractor in the main form and was ask to move it here. First thing is I don`t want a lock all the time system , This would make the tractor to hard to steer . I wanted to know if some one knew what other rear end was close to our cubs in size that a locker could be used from.I would like the option to lock the rear end when pushing snow .I have moved snow and had one wheel spin and that ended the pushing of the blade full of snow.My ATV has a locked rear dif and will out push my tractor wile in two wheel drive with no weights or chains with a 54" blade.So I think with the weight and some style of locking dif the Cub should be as good as an atv for moving snow with out chains.I used my 149 once with turf tires and two link chains to clear 8" of snow off my drive.I did not think I was making marks on the drive till all the snow melted .
That was two winters ago and I can still see where the chains marked up my drive.
If this is not possible I will add front brake callipers off a motorcycle and have two foot breaks petals so I can control the wheel spin.I think the IH brake disk will work and some bikes have dual front breaks, so mount one calliper on each rear disk and add just one extra brake control res. I`am sure this will work to control the one wheel spin . Thee front break set up should be easy to find also and I would have a much better parking break. I would like some of your input on my idea. Denny will put a few ideas in I bet and they will be appreciated . Thanks Don T
I started a discussion on a locking rear dif on a garden tractor in the main form and was ask to move it here. First thing is I don`t want a lock all the time system , This would make the tractor to hard to steer . I wanted to know if some one knew what other rear end was close to our cubs in size that a locker could be used from.I would like the option to lock the rear end when pushing snow .I have moved snow and had one wheel spin and that ended the pushing of the blade full of snow.My ATV has a locked rear dif and will out push my tractor wile in two wheel drive with no weights or chains with a 54" blade.So I think with the weight and some style of locking dif the Cub should be as good as an atv for moving snow with out chains.I used my 149 once with turf tires and two link chains to clear 8" of snow off my drive.I did not think I was making marks on the drive till all the snow melted .
If this is not possible I will add front brake callipers off a motorcycle and have two foot breaks petals so I can control the wheel spin.I think the IH brake disk will work and some bikes have dual front breaks, so mount one calliper on each rear disk and add just one extra brake control res. I`am sure this will work to control the one wheel spin . Thee front break set up should be easy to find also and I would have a much better parking break. I would like some of your input on my idea. Denny will put a few ideas in I bet and they will be appreciated . Thanks Don T
Frank A. Currier(Northern Maine)
The gears I speak of are the spider gears number 41 two of and 42 two of and the pin 40 . I speak to a friend today and he thinks he has what I need to add motor cycle breaks and pads for my disk Cub breaks. I will try that before I spend big $ for a locker.
The gears I speak of are the spider gears number 41 two of and 42 two of and the pin 40 . I speak to a friend today and he thinks he has what I need to add motor cycle breaks and pads for my disk Cub breaks. I will try that before I spend big $ for a locker.
fcurrier
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 5, 2004
- Messages
- 3,155
- displayname
- Frank A. Currier(Northern Maine)
I measure the pin at 4 7/8", the larger gears at 2 15/16" beveling down to 2 1/2", and the smaller gears at 2" beveling down to 1 7/16".
Sorry I can't translate that to Metric for you.
Next time I take a pic of the green Jeep I'll make sure there's a F/S sign on it.
DON - My full size tractors I push snow with have steering brakes and I can assure you that THEY aren't the complete answer either. By the time one wheel starts spinning you have to get onto that brake and get power to the other wheel, which will normally start spinning before it moves the tractor, blade & snow.
If your ATV works better moving snow I'd just use it. My Buddy moves snow with his 800 CC Polaris 4WD ATV, think he's got a 60 inch blade and he's tried to bury it several times and he can't. It just keeps moving forward, backward, whatever he wants. Even with chains, and hundreds of pounds of added weight I still spin a tire frequently when pushing snow with my big tractors. I'd use an ATV if I had one.
If your ATV works better moving snow I'd just use it. My Buddy moves snow with his 800 CC Polaris 4WD ATV, think he's got a 60 inch blade and he's tried to bury it several times and he can't. It just keeps moving forward, backward, whatever he wants. Even with chains, and hundreds of pounds of added weight I still spin a tire frequently when pushing snow with my big tractors. I'd use an ATV if I had one.
So I got some inspiration from Timmy D's Diesel Quietline project ass seen in the Cadet Connection magazine and thought I should build a diesel QL, but why not lengthen the frame and build a super QL? So thats what I want to do. I've got the frame welded up but I need to make some critical decisions moving forward and could use some advice.
Here is the frame welded up.
Welded Frame next to super frame.
So steering, will I be going with manual or power, it makes a big difference when purchasing a super axle. My concern is that it may be difficult to put power steering into a QL due to limited space that is going to quickly vanish once I stick the diesel in there. Timmy D put his remote oil filter next to the steering column, if I use power steering I don't know if I will have room to put the oil filter there. What do you guys think?
For the rear end I've pretty much ruled out the rear PTO since I used 2 QL frames to make this frame and there aren't any holes or notches in the back for the rear PTO parts... but I still want to do a real nice cat 0 style 3 point... I have seen one on here done by Richard Christensen, I think it looks pretty cool, I think it needs to be beefed up if I want to use any heavy implements, but right now this is what I'm thinking for out back.
https://www.ihcubcadet.com/forum/messages/106/27638.jpg
Have you guys seen any QL's with power steering?
Here is the frame welded up.
Welded Frame next to super frame.
So steering, will I be going with manual or power, it makes a big difference when purchasing a super axle. My concern is that it may be difficult to put power steering into a QL due to limited space that is going to quickly vanish once I stick the diesel in there. Timmy D put his remote oil filter next to the steering column, if I use power steering I don't know if I will have room to put the oil filter there. What do you guys think?
For the rear end I've pretty much ruled out the rear PTO since I used 2 QL frames to make this frame and there aren't any holes or notches in the back for the rear PTO parts... but I still want to do a real nice cat 0 style 3 point... I have seen one on here done by Richard Christensen, I think it looks pretty cool, I think it needs to be beefed up if I want to use any heavy implements, but right now this is what I'm thinking for out back.
https://www.ihcubcadet.com/forum/messages/106/27638.jpg
Have you guys seen any QL's with power steering?
Hi guy's, here's the latest tractor out of my shop. I installed one of Aaron's 3 point hitches (great product!) It started as an 1811. Finished as a 1568...
All loaded and headed to Louisiana.
www.TheLittleTractorCo.com
All loaded and headed to Louisiana.
www.TheLittleTractorCo.com
jchamberlin
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 19, 2010
- Messages
- 1,842
- Location
- Farmville, North Carolina
- displayname
- Jeremiah Chamberlin
There doesn't seem to be a limit to your creativity!
Kurt, beautiful job!
Thanks guy's. This one was a lot of fun. I just got off the phone with the new owner, he was very happy with it. The only thing left of the 1811 is the drive line, frame, steering column and pedestal, and the tunnel cover over the drive shaft.
Kurt
Kurt
Thanks Johnathan, I did build it from scratch. I ran a piece of black pipe connecting the two exhaust ports, and bolting it fast to where the PTO mounted on the top. Then I used standard Cub Cadet mufflers for a 125 tractor on each end of my manifold. Lastly I had the heat shields custom made and chromed.
Kurt
Kurt
