Archive through September 10, 2006

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Kraig sent me the 9-11 forum files to upload. They all will open in MS Word. Thanks Kraig.

CLICK HERE

If you want to see who posted what, just highlight the blue line. I can't get rid of the dang thing!

 

[rlmeers]

I'm new to cub cadets. Does cub make a unit with a hydrostatic transmission and a locking differencial? Thanks.

 

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Roger M.
Nope, but if you have a welder, your in luck.

 

[lbuttke]

Had a busy day yesterday. Got started on the new shed for one of my tractors.
Started by driveing the loader down to the sand pit a 1/4 mile from my place.

Had to walk back home to get the next cub and trailer to haul the sand back home.

Headed for the first scoop of sand.

Takes about 7 bucket loads to fill the trailer,

After 4 loads of sand comes the next fun part, leveling it off.

Takes a bit of time to level out the sand but it looked good when finished,

Heres a shot of the work force

 

[pwaller]

Just came from the local CC dealer. Needed some fluid for the rear axle on my 1650. The dealer wanted to sell me Kubota (he's a K dealer also) oil for my Cub. He said it cross referenced with Hy-tran and he didn't carry both anymore. Is the Kubota oil OK to use or should I stick with the Hy-tran? Thanks.

 

[lbuttke]

When I went back to retrive the loader from the sand pit my brother finialy gets home to show off with his new toy.

I told him he was cheating, useing such a big tractor.

 

[digger]

Lonny,
You just need to bite the bullet and build a BIG Cub shed. You've got the room, I know ya do!!!!!

 

[aschumacher]

Guys who have rebuilt the steering column, is it an ugley job? I can get steering wheel off ok. Book says 2 bolts hold it in. Will it easily drop down thru bottom? Have to get rid of 30 degrees if freeplay in wheel. Like driving a bumper car.

 

[tsantoli]

My 1650 got hit by a car, the front axle and several other parts are beyond repair.

I have located a 1200 with no engine that is otherwise complete; will the front axle, fender assembly, hood extension and grille support fit my 1650 frame?

Thanks for the help.

Tom

 

[lbuttke]

Paul W.
I would stick with Hy-Tran oil

Allen S.
Yes the steering colum will come out through the bottom, but you will need to raise the front of the tractor to get enough room.
It is also a greasy mess to deal with so have plenty of grease rags handy.

Digger.
I gots the room to build one heck of a cub shed, but its the lack of funds that keeps me from building it.
Each spring I say to my wife, this year I build the shed, and winter gets here befor I have ever get enough cash saved up to build one. If it aint one thing around here that needs fixing its another.
We all know how that goes.

 

[bcook]

Allen. What model of CC are you working on?
Steering columns are really simple to work on

I have 'doctored' on 6 of them. Once you have removed the steering wheel, unhooked the drag link, have any covers, etc. out of the way, and take the two column mounting bolts out, the column will slip down and out the bottom of the tractor. If your tractor has a hydraulic valve body mounted to the coulmn, then it is a little more of a PITA.

Tom: Sorry to hear your 1650 got into a fight with a car....however you are in luck, the "the front axle, fender assembly, hood extension and grille support" are exactly the same between a 1200, and a 1650. Just keep the shifter hole cover from your bent up fender pan, you'll have to/want to install it on the 1200's fender pan once you swap them.

 

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Allen S.
Check this page out. Richard C. did his usual fantastic job documenting the how to.
http://cubfaq.com/steeringrebuild.html

Paul W.
STICK WITH HYTRAN!
There's a reason for it. IT WORKS!

 

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Tom S.
We need crash photos!!!!!

 

[dmerkle]

Terry and Kraig,

The top link is set up to put some down pressure on hitch. My Dad built the proto type 30 plus years ago. He still uses it on his 1450.

The soil in Northwest Ohio can be difficult to start a plow and keep plow in the soil. There are several different ways to get plow to start. I tried different point angles with little success. One way is add some weight to plow. Problem with that is plow is harder to lift if you have a manual lift system. Instead of adding weight Dad copied and modified the set up that was on a IH Farmall H/cultivator that I grew up using, creating some down pressure on cultivator shovels or in this application my Brinly hitch. Here is a close up :

Dad used the Brinly arms when he made the proto type. I made mine out of heavier material. Both top links are the same. The silver part is a spring.

The plow is a Homelite plow. It was made by Simplicity.

 

[jpulsford]

Hey, whats up. I just bought a little tractor. I'm new at this. Just trying to find out what year my baby was born. It is a IH Cub Cadet 100. Any helpers???

 

[lbuttke]

James P.
Welcome to the forum.
The best way to figure out the age of your cub 100 is to get the serial number and than look in the FAQ's located at the top of this page, there is a link there that tells where to locate the serial numbers and how to find out the age of the tractor useing the serial numbers.

 

[bcorn]

Ok guys!! Been slowly tearing the 1000 apart getting ready to clean, paint and restore broken parts. As I am starting to get my parts list for the clutch unit, I noticed the back rag unit on the drive shaft going to the trans. is a little worn ok time to replace!

Question is: after looking thru the "vault" I noticed a picture of somebody using 2 "rags" to complete the union. Why? and is this really the way to go? If it is now is the time to do it!

Pops (good Lord there is a lot of bolts to this thing

)

 

[digger]

James P.
100's were made between 8/1963 TO 8/1965.
You can go here to find the serial number, http://cubfaq.com/serialnumbers.html

Then here to find out when it was made,
http://tinyurl.com/3e9ug

 

[bmcmeen]

Charlie -

Deja vu - didn't I see all that in an e-mail recently?

 

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