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Archive through September 03, 2012
- Thread starter nhasson
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
rvanmersbergen
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- Dec 18, 2007
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- Ray Van Mersbergen
Aaron S, You make great stuff I am hopeing you will fab pan seats!
sblunier
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- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
Harry,
"Mr. Plow" goes way back to 2001 and the first GT Plow Day at our farm.......some joking around, and one of the funniest "Simpsons" episodes led to the rest....
Brian,
Nice new 782.....bring it and the implements for some Plow Day fun!!!!!
"Mr. Plow" goes way back to 2001 and the first GT Plow Day at our farm.......some joking around, and one of the funniest "Simpsons" episodes led to the rest....
Brian,
Nice new 782.....bring it and the implements for some Plow Day fun!!!!!
jstertz
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- joshua donald stertz
Brian B--Nice find on the 782 with attachments! That'll be a lot of fun to put into service!
I purchased a 1x9 series tractor from a guy that has owned the tractor for about 25 years. Eight years ago he parked it because the PTO stopped working and bought an off topic tractor to replace it. So he was here working on our fridge and I was talking about my Cubs and he asked me if I'd be interested in purchasing his. We struck a deal and I now own a 1x9 but I'm embarrased to say, I don't know exactly what model it is.
I have the serial number on the engine which is 4000235 which from the reference chart I have indicates the motor was built late in '71 or ear;y '72 but the primary tag is all scratched off and so I don't have the spec number or model number. The decals were removed years ago and the hood was repainted but the decals weren't replaced. The tractors serial #2050047U420043 seems to indicate that it was built in Feb 1972. Is there anything from those two numbers that would tell me which exact model this is or something that I can look for two nail this down? I tend to think it is a 149 but I want to know for sure.
I purchased a 1x9 series tractor from a guy that has owned the tractor for about 25 years. Eight years ago he parked it because the PTO stopped working and bought an off topic tractor to replace it. So he was here working on our fridge and I was talking about my Cubs and he asked me if I'd be interested in purchasing his. We struck a deal and I now own a 1x9 but I'm embarrased to say, I don't know exactly what model it is.
hydroharry
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- Harry Bursell
Joshua S - you got it correct. It's a Model 149. I'm not sure of the chart you were looking at but your tractor serial number 2050047U420043 breaks down as follows:
205 is what IH called the Kind Code (or what I call the Product code) identifying it as a Garden Tractor (so it's an IH Cub Cadet)
0047 is what IH called the Machine Code which identifies it as a Model 149.
U is for Made in the U.S.A.
420043 is the serial number indicating it was built during the month of Feb. 1972.
Now, you should have a 14hp Kohler Model K321A engine but the serial number doesn't provide any ID info that I'm aware of, and since the Model and Spec numbers are scratched/worn off the tag you'll have to do some investigating. If you can possibly see any of the Spec No. the first two digits for a 14hp are 60 (for a 12hp it's 47 and for a 16hp it's 71) . Sometimes if you get the light just right you can still see at least some of the Spec numbers since they were pressed into the tag. Otherwise you'll probably have to pull the head and measure your cylinder bore. Sounds like you have some reference material but just in case, the cylinder bore for a 14hp K321 is 3.5", for a 16hp K341 it's 3.75", and for a 12hp K301 it's 3.375".
(Oops, Mr. Plow - yes a hydraulic lift was standard on a 149 but there are many 129's, 169's, and even some 109's with it, like Jerry's Nines Are Wild has in his profile).
205 is what IH called the Kind Code (or what I call the Product code) identifying it as a Garden Tractor (so it's an IH Cub Cadet)
0047 is what IH called the Machine Code which identifies it as a Model 149.
U is for Made in the U.S.A.
420043 is the serial number indicating it was built during the month of Feb. 1972.
Now, you should have a 14hp Kohler Model K321A engine but the serial number doesn't provide any ID info that I'm aware of, and since the Model and Spec numbers are scratched/worn off the tag you'll have to do some investigating. If you can possibly see any of the Spec No. the first two digits for a 14hp are 60 (for a 12hp it's 47 and for a 16hp it's 71) . Sometimes if you get the light just right you can still see at least some of the Spec numbers since they were pressed into the tag. Otherwise you'll probably have to pull the head and measure your cylinder bore. Sounds like you have some reference material but just in case, the cylinder bore for a 14hp K321 is 3.5", for a 16hp K341 it's 3.75", and for a 12hp K301 it's 3.375".
(Oops, Mr. Plow - yes a hydraulic lift was standard on a 149 but there are many 129's, 169's, and even some 109's with it, like Jerry's Nines Are Wild has in his profile).
jstertz
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- joshua donald stertz
Harry S--This is one of the many reasons that I enjoy this forum. There is so many knowledgeable folks with great info willing to share. I really enjoyed reading your post and will copy that info into my permanent file.
I can't wait to get this thing cleaned and ready to run. I want to make sure that I do the start up correct after a long dormant period. My plan is to drain the fuel, change fuel filter, change the oil, clean the float bowl and float. Is there anything else that you guys would suggest that I do before attempting to start it?
I can't wait to get this thing cleaned and ready to run. I want to make sure that I do the start up correct after a long dormant period. My plan is to drain the fuel, change fuel filter, change the oil, clean the float bowl and float. Is there anything else that you guys would suggest that I do before attempting to start it?
Joshua, sounds like you have most of the bases covered. But if I was you I would also remove the cooling tin on the top of the engine and shine a light down inside the front shroud. Chances are there's a nice mouse nest in there if it sat for that long. I'm in the process of rebuilding a cub engine that someone cooked the rings in because that happened. Nice find, 149's are great tractors.
Hello all.
im helping my buddy referb his 1250 we got it all back togeather and running but the hydro is fighting us, ive read the adjustmens that are on the site, but i must be missing something. i can find neutrall with the lever thats done, but when i push the brake down it wont pull the lever up to neutrall it stays down about a 1ich in reverse, and when i push the lever all the way foward it stops about a inch from full foward, what ive done so far is, ive adjust the brake clevise both ways and that dont seem to help, and sugestions would be a great help. if needed i can get some detailed pictures of the linkages our what ever you guys need to help me through this thanks in advance
im helping my buddy referb his 1250 we got it all back togeather and running but the hydro is fighting us, ive read the adjustmens that are on the site, but i must be missing something. i can find neutrall with the lever thats done, but when i push the brake down it wont pull the lever up to neutrall it stays down about a 1ich in reverse, and when i push the lever all the way foward it stops about a inch from full foward, what ive done so far is, ive adjust the brake clevise both ways and that dont seem to help, and sugestions would be a great help. if needed i can get some detailed pictures of the linkages our what ever you guys need to help me through this thanks in advance
Steve B., awesome job on the plow!
Hydro, is this the brochure statement you were referring to? It's from a 1975 Quiet Line brochure.
I believe they heard you and corrected it for the 1976 brochure.
Hydro, is this the brochure statement you were referring to? It's from a 1975 Quiet Line brochure.
I believe they heard you and corrected it for the 1976 brochure.
Hey guys I picked up a 123 lastnight,no motor but the hydr is good and body is in good shape. I was wondering if the serial number is on the back of the trans or if its on the reduction housing. Havent had a hydro,this is the first one.Also got a 122 that the guy planned on building a puller out of.moved the front axle,its in ok shape no motor though.and also got a cast iron deck that needs a lil bit of work,but everything spins and isnt lent had locked up.havent had time to look at them yet,got home kinda late and by the time I got everything in the garage I didnt feel like messin with it.
hydroharry
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- Harry Bursell
Kraig - Oh Great One, Keeper of the Photos - I just knew you'd have it. You have to be the absolute best on finding this reference info and alot of other things as well (otherwise we wouldn't call you Oh Great One).
Chris R - that pic is a great one. Thanks for posting.
Joshua - besides the items already mentioned you should pull the plug on the rearend and make sure there is fluid in it. As long as it's close to the plug level you're probably ok but I wouldn't leave it long before you change it and the filter.
Jonathan S - there are 2 places on the back of the trans where it could be located. Have a look at the FAQ for the locations you might find it.
Chris R - that pic is a great one. Thanks for posting.
Joshua - besides the items already mentioned you should pull the plug on the rearend and make sure there is fluid in it. As long as it's close to the plug level you're probably ok but I wouldn't leave it long before you change it and the filter.
Jonathan S - there are 2 places on the back of the trans where it could be located. Have a look at the FAQ for the locations you might find it.
ok I'll look into it,I know on the later ones,well like my 104 theres a id tag on the back right axle housing.i think,yeah pretty sure its the right.on the 100's think it was on the top side of the reduction housing , maybe I'm wrong,I was trying to figure out what it had as far as a 2nd gear.yeah thats what I was doing.ok I probably just confused you guys,sorry bout that. I'll unbolt the back plate on it and check there first.
Bryan K,
Just remove the balance gears in your Kohler. If you press out the stub shafts for the gears, there will be two open holes in your block. The stub shafts fill those holes.
Not sure what size engine you have but one of the Sponsors above, Kirk Engines, has a nice balance kit that attaches directly to the crankshaft to replace the infamous "grenade" gears if you have a K321 or K341 engine.
Just remove the balance gears in your Kohler. If you press out the stub shafts for the gears, there will be two open holes in your block. The stub shafts fill those holes.
Not sure what size engine you have but one of the Sponsors above, Kirk Engines, has a nice balance kit that attaches directly to the crankshaft to replace the infamous "grenade" gears if you have a K321 or K341 engine.
JOSH - As Frank's pic shows, serial number plate on a 104 is on the left side of the back face of the rearend. A 104 should have the 19T 2nd gear, 3.9 MPH @ 3600 engine RPM, 100 should have the 16T 2nd, 3.2 MPH.
The 16T 2nd is a great mowing gear, little slow for some other things, but saves a TON of time mowing.
The 16T 2nd is a great mowing gear, little slow for some other things, but saves a TON of time mowing.
Dennis...Actually its Jon , lol But Ive been called worse! Anyways yeah your right I'm wrong,I'm out in the garage removing a few thinfs to see if its located there, I'll find out exactly what I got here soon. The po was telling me he got the 123 and was thinking about restoring it, but time went on and other projects came up.For some reason I would like to get a motor for it and a few other things that it needs and maybe try to get it runnin. Never had a hydro,and since this was the first hydro model ih came out with is making me think even more about it. Oh yeah I've tried posting pics on here several times,after I upload them,click on post it comes back and says " image is to big need to make smaller " or somthing along them lines.Any advice on that?
