Black 122 Rims
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Archive through September 01, 2008
- Thread starter vthomley
- Start date
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Got my clutch parts from this guy. Quick shipping, and good product.
I already took a thrashing..so here we are with safety cage, 5 point harness, and head protection
Got my clutch parts from this guy. Quick shipping, and good product.
I already took a thrashing..so here we are with safety cage, 5 point harness, and head protection
Ryan & all,
Chris at Cub Cadet Classics sells those exact same parts!
http://www.cubclassics.com/pulling.html
Chris at Cub Cadet Classics sells those exact same parts!
http://www.cubclassics.com/pulling.html
Well I have a question. Building a stock 124 puller. Putting a 14hp kohler in and running 23/10.5/12 bar tires. Have a rearend with a 16 tooth second gear. Is that what I want or stay with the 19 tooth. What does the different gears do as in ground speed? Lower gear slower ground speed? This is my first tractor if you can't tell.
Your most likely gonna want to go with the 19 tooth gear with your 14 hp I have a 16 on uncut 23x10.50x12's that i have 22-24-26 in and we use 22 and 24 all the time. The 19 tooth will be a bit faster then the 16 tooth It is 2.1 mph faster when caculated on 26 inch rubber it should be fairly close on 23's
Ben,
I would stay with the 19 tooth gear. This 16hp below has a 19 tooth gear with 26x12x12 tires and never ran out of power all summer.
Here it is with 26x12x12 cut hardened Firestones
This 12hp below runs out of power at 1050 pounds, it also has a 19 tooth gear. At a lighter weight like 950 we run it in 2nd, plus looser track we can run it in 2nd.
This 16hp below has a 17 tooth second and it wants a faster gear for next year.
I would stay with the 19 tooth gear. This 16hp below has a 19 tooth gear with 26x12x12 tires and never ran out of power all summer.
Here it is with 26x12x12 cut hardened Firestones
This 12hp below runs out of power at 1050 pounds, it also has a 19 tooth gear. At a lighter weight like 950 we run it in 2nd, plus looser track we can run it in 2nd.
This 16hp below has a 17 tooth second and it wants a faster gear for next year.
DENNIS - For a couple Cubbies & small tractors a 7000# cap tandem axle car trailer would be fine, something with fold-up or slide-in ramps, 16 ft long would be plenty, bumper-hook with brakes on both axles. Easy to pull with a large full-size car or 1/2 ton pickup. The problem with getting something smaller is they're too easy to over-load and because they can be pulled with smaller tow vehicles too many "Friends" will borrow them and tear them up. Remember that the 7000# weight rating INCLUDES the weight of the trailer so You can actually only haul approx. 5000# of Stuff. Be sure You get plenty of chains & binders or nylon ratchet straps to tie everything down properly. Most states require four chains/straps rated for at least the weight of the object being tied down with the chain/strap.
It's probably a waste of time to try to find a used trailer like that although they are some available. There's trailer companies like H&H, PJ's, and literally hundreds of others that make trailers like I described. Make sure You look the trailer You buy over closely for good structural weld joints, secure wiring, and any other signs of shoddy workmanship.
It's probably a waste of time to try to find a used trailer like that although they are some available. There's trailer companies like H&H, PJ's, and literally hundreds of others that make trailers like I described. Make sure You look the trailer You buy over closely for good structural weld joints, secure wiring, and any other signs of shoddy workmanship.
Hi, I'm a newbee to cub cadets, and I want to PULL!! I have a 1977 1200 that I purchased with the clutch "shot", as well as the engine mounts,which I believe went hand in hand from looking at it when purchased.
This unit has the external brakes, and my son says that the internal brake units are better.
He calls it a spread frame that you can put a twin in.
Either way, it's going back on the ROAD.
I can cut and weld, but don't want to "BUTCH" this nice machine, just because he says it would be better.
I appreciate any constructive input.
Thank you, arthur t. Lisk
cell#330-204-3410
This unit has the external brakes, and my son says that the internal brake units are better.
He calls it a spread frame that you can put a twin in.
Either way, it's going back on the ROAD.
I can cut and weld, but don't want to "BUTCH" this nice machine, just because he says it would be better.
I appreciate any constructive input.
Thank you, arthur t. Lisk
cell#330-204-3410
NEED HELP!!!. I'M BUILDING A DRAG RACING TRACTOR WITH A 327 CHEVY****I HAVE TO USE HYDROSTATIC TRANSMISSION. WHAT CAN I DO TO IMPROVE THE PUMP/VOLUME/PRESSURE IN A CUB CADET 1250 TO INCREASE REAR TIRE SPEED. I WANT TO GO FAST IN 1/8 MILE.
HELP PLEASE
HELP PLEASE
Ben M.
You don't need to do that!
Just do this.
And if you really have your heart set on flaring out the frame, I did a search for flare and came up with this page.
https://www.ihcubcadet.com/cgi-bin/discus/board-auth.pl?file=/106/31400.html
You don't need to do that!
Just do this.
And if you really have your heart set on flaring out the frame, I did a search for flare and came up with this page.
https://www.ihcubcadet.com/cgi-bin/discus/board-auth.pl?file=/106/31400.html
BEN - Charlie's idea is a little easier than what I did but I put the bearing backplate, flywheel, & blower housing from My 12 HP onto My K321 to drop it right into My 72.
I'd had My 72 for about 25 yrs at that time and NO WAY was I cutting & welding on the frame. And lord knows I have a shop full of equipment to do work like that!
I'd had My 72 for about 25 yrs at that time and NO WAY was I cutting & welding on the frame. And lord knows I have a shop full of equipment to do work like that!
