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DON T. - Great job on the 129. With Your black loader the graphite paint wouldn't show or look bad at all. Whether it would help dumping stuff out of the bucket would depend on what You use the loader for. I find the graphite paint scratches real essy. If You used to loader to move gravel, rock, or sand it wouldn't last long. If You move damp loose dirt it might help empty the bucket a little. Loose material like bark mulch the paint wouldn't make much difference. I know You move a LOT of snow in winter, if the graphite paint would help is probably a "It Depends" situation. If You keep the 129/loader in the heated shop it will melt the first bit of snow, then freeze and collect more snow/ice. If You let the 129 sit outside & warm up and the loader cool off it would probably help quite a bit.

KENDELL - O-K, We disagree!
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Now, Back to Our NORMAL NONSENSE on the forum
 
Dave S.-

That probably means no one has ever replaced that spirol pin. They're hardened, so they crack eventually from all the flexing that they undergo.
 
Dennis Frisk
I thought it might help a little when loading. I ground down the leading edge of the bucket because it was at least 3/8 thick and I thought that would help when its pushed into a pile of dirt to have a small leading edge.The loader won`t be used for snow removal , I used it once and found it a pain. I will be using the 149 with the Ih blade till I get the 1512 and 53" blade and power angle. I looked at the O I have here and think that it should be next after I get all the bugs out of the 1512 D and power angle cylinder installed. I really don`t think the 1961 O will be have the work to repair and paint. I have the decals here for about 2 years,I think I will go out and get the bucket dirty right now lol, can`t put it off any longer .
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Brendan, is that FrankenCub?

Don T., awesome job on your Loader Cub, please keep the photos coming.
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GM (and all the other MFRs) has used water based primers since the 70's, due to the Gov't regulations on VOCs... The problem of rusting isn't limited to just water based primer - primer, for lack of a better description, "breathes" - it does not seal the base metal totally - it's there to give "tooth" for adherence of the top coat. As Matt suggests, the best practice, AFAIK, is to use the recommended primer for the top coat. And everyone remembers - GM never had a problem with rusting in the 70's - right ???

I really don't think that the rusting was caused by the fact that the primer was thinned with water, unless it wasn't mixed thoroughly - I'm pretty sure it was due to the high humidity. The real problem is that you wouldn't have wanted to go ahead with the top coat, which would have sealed it, as you can run into all sorts of issues when painting in high humidity - paint blushes, compressor starts putting that extra moisture into the air line......

Lousy weather here,too - need to cut at least another cord of wood, but we're back in the cycle of one good day and about ten wet ones - feels like we're in Washington or Oregon..
 
Kraig....Yep, still need to finish a few things before tear down to paint it, the hood and wheels will end up being black. Most of the parts have been mocked up except the hydraulic pump and oil pan. Need to find a chunk of aluminum big enough for the pan, I'd rather not weld one up. Oh, and the drive shaft for the sickle bar yet...
 
Brendan, what engine is in that? Why do you need to fab an oil pan?
 
It's a 301AQS from a 1250, big flywheel. I have a flat pan on it but I had to put spacers between the pan and frame so the cooling shroud would clear the frame. Bolens used these spacers, thats where I got them from, but I don't like the looks with the gap under it. I also figured if I'm gonna mill one out of a big chunk I might as well mill cooling fins on the sides too.
 
On Steves paint issue I sandblasted for about 5 hours that day and then forgot to drain the tank. The brown specks were water spots, I didn't recognize it when I was spraying cause I've never painted water based primer before. Usually if you blow water out your gun on oil based paint the paint bubbles over it.
This stuff just mixed. The brown spots are where the gun spit water directlly on bare metal and it rusted. The next day when we found the spots I took some sandpaper and took it down to bare metal, those spots went all the way to the metal.
Kendells right they been useing water based automotive paint a long time. We got, what I believe, was good proven advise on paint then got in a hurry and ignored it.
 
Dave - better to find it in the primer stage than after the topcoat (hate those water blisters...). The worst thing about it is getting the hose dried out....
 
Wasn't there a discussion a long time back about removing water from air lines? I think KentuckKen had a lot of input including using a roll of toilet paper as a final trap. May have been posted in the Machine Shop section. (Sub heading there is 'Air Compressors')
 
Yup, a couple of pretty good threads, Air Lines and Air Compressors..
 
Thanks Charlie, i just got my order today and no extra charges lol . But my birthday is in May
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. Thanks so much for the parts and the great service I always get from you at CCS. I think that parcel had a tail wind to get here that fast. Again thanks .
I will be picking up my next tractor in the am, I have found a smoker and well after just getting my 129 loader running , Life is Great.. Later Don T
 
I'm in the process of rebuilding the steering column in the my 125, the bearing surfaces on the steering shaft are worn from running it with bad bearings.

Can the surfaces be dressed up, don't worry about it or should I be looking for a replacement shaft?

Thanks Greg
 
GREG - I've been thru the rebuild of several of those gearboxes. ROSS should have hardened those radius' where the thrust bearings ride more.

I've used a ball shaped grind stone about 3/8" to 1/2" in dia. in a Dremel to smooth them down. I've also used a cutting disc & the sand paper disc & sanding drum to smooth & polish them.
You have to try to take the same amount of material off all the way around the surface. Because of the way the steel wear washer sits on the top bearing surface and the bottom adjusting nut You can be off a little but the more variation to shorter time the repair will last.

I don't have any kind of a lathe, but if You could get the steering shaft spinning true, not wobbling it would be much easier to gring/polish those surfaces. Maybe use a "Verticle Lathe"? floor standing drill press?
 
Dennis:
Don't laugh at the "vertical lathe" - BTDT... not on a steering shaft, but it'll work. I used a piece of oak, with a hole bored the OD of the shaft, at the bottom end, to stabilize the shaft I was trying to clean up. Grease it up, you'd be surprised how long a piece of oak will last as a bearing block.. I flipped the table on edge and cranked it as low as it would go, clamped the oak block to that. Amazing the things you can do on a drill press....
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I don't suppose Ross ever planned on these boxes lasting 40 years - The Murrays and other cheap rider lawn mowers were almost stone age compared to a Cub and getting 5 years out of them was pretty good at the time - (late 50's, early 60's)
 
Josh, strange you should ask about coffee and donuts! Thats what I'm having!! And just to stay on topic, I may be picking up another snowblade for the 104. I also maybe building a small lean-to off of the shed to put some cubs and parts, anyone have any do's and dont's I should consider?
 
Scott, SO YOU HAVE THEM ALL!?!? LOL
I might be getting a CC 104 coming up later this year. The guy that i sold my 123 to has one and he doesnt like gear drives but it must be in good shape because he want quite a bit for it unless it has some extras. I'll keep yaposted on it. Got make sure i get this job though...
 

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