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Archive through October 22, 2009

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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sshaff

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Dec 14, 2008
Messages
449
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Steve Shaff
Kendall and others:

Thanks for the reply. I'm afraid you could be right about the quick rusting you mentioned -- no pics are available. We've had a lot of rain in recent days but our weather was sunny and in the high 50s when we did this on Monday. If we start over, what will prevent it from happening again? Could this have anything to do with the Krylon primer/sealer we used being water soluable? Is this product compatible with the PPG ShopLine enamel we eventually want to apply?
 
Marlin H, what you call massaging is what I call mixing bread, but both phrases work
Pet your kitties for me
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Steve S.-

I would HIGHLY recommend using the Shop line primer with the Shop line paint.

Krylon is making primer for metal that's WATER soluble? That sounds like absolute crap to me. If you had any water at all in the air lines and didn't use a drier, that water wound up in the paint and dissolved into it. I would stay away from that primer and get the good stuff. You can't go wrong with the shop line primer when using it with the shop line paint. I painted my 100 with the Shop line paint. The primer has a hardener and is pretty good for the quality in my opinion. Here's a hint...don't put any reducer in the white, just the hardener. It is too runny with the reducer in it. If it seems to thick, add some, but don't start out with any in there or it'll be too thin. BTDT. Feel free if you have any questions about painting with that paint, as I've painted a whole tractor with it like I mentioned.
 
Keith LeJeune. I just rebuilt my clutch on my 122 plow tractor, needless to say when you have a newly employed machinist in the family ( my son) He turned out my pressure plates, cut and drilled a new drive shaft,all cost with clutch plate, bout $30 bucks and a big "here ya go Dad" What a Kid!!!
 
Don T., Looking great!
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Keith, I'm pretty sure the clutch on my O will cost about what I paid for it.
 
BJohnson- I told you it would probably be something simple. So instead of the coil wire it was between the points and coil. I now get the ohm meter and go over all conductors I can think of before I go switching out parts like I use to. I'm glad to hear you found the problem. Wayne
 
Keith/Richard

You can EASILY blow more than the cost of a clutch on fixing a hydro driveshaft when replacing the rear coupler, 4 rag joint rubbers, and both those $20 spherical ball bushings. BTDT more than once...
 
Matt,

We were surprised by water soluable Krylon primer/sealer, too -- but it's made for metal among other things. It was too thick to spray with our gun even though the directions on the can said we shouldn't have to thin it. We still tried, though, first with oil based paint thinner (which immediately separated; we dumped it out), then with a small amount of water which seemed to work well at the time. Your comments lead me to believe this was NOT a good idea, hence the rust specks. Do you know if any less expensive (but just as effective) alternatives are available to using Shop Line primer?
 
I have a 42" spring tip blade I put on my 129 or 149 and it does not have a lift rod. I will only be using it for snow and we very seldom get over 6". Would using chain work letting the weight of the blade push the snow?
 
Steve-

Shop line primer isn't THAT expensive. (Want to see expensive? Ask what the same color costs in the Delstar line, and make sure you're sitting down...
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)If you can afford the paint, you can afford the corresponding primer. If you can't, I'd be using cheaper paint. Honestly, I never use anything other than $8/quart Valspar IH white for my attachments because it's just gonna wear off anyway.

If you're committed to using Shop line, this isn't a great time to cut corners. When you buy decent paint, the primer and paint are a system. I can't believe the place you bought the paint from didn't sell you the primer too. I would not recommend using anything other than the shop line primer with the shop line paint unless you want to risk starting over a 3rd time. You can try some other kind of primer meant for acrylic enamel paints, but they'll cost the same. Price and quality are correlated for the most part.
 
Matt,

We only tried this because a guy we know (whose restorations are really impressive) told us he used red oxide primer from Walmart with PPG Shopline. Unfortunately Walmart didn't have that, but they did have the Krylon white on the shelf -- big mistake I guess. My PPG guy couldn't explain to us why we needed to use his primer either (which would have more than doubled the cost), but maybe it's worth it. Ultimately I have three tractors, four decks, and a trailer to paint -- we decided to start with my snowthrower to give us preliminary practice for these other things...
 
Michael Smith I made my own lift rod. I put the tractor on a level spot and with the blade on the floor I used a jack to lift the cub about 2 ". I then made a lift rod to fit the measurement from lift point to blade. Just my .02
 
Well i`am done for tonight as its 10.45 here,I don`t know if putting Ez-slide graphite-based coating on the inside of the bucket on my loader 129.Probaly a waste of time .
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Steve-

If you want to use it on future stuff, it'd be great practice using the primer, too. It goes on kinda thin and takes some practice to get right. If you get some halfway decent red oxide primer, that might work. I haven't tried it, so I wouldn't know. If someone's been doing that without issue, then it could work. It'll be easier to see where you've been when you do the topcoat, that's for sure. I would say you'd probably get the best paint adhesion by using the primer the paint is designed for. Sometimes, mixing incompatible paint and primer results in orange peel or a crusty-looking finish. It's up to you...I'd for sure stay away from anything water-based.


I still can't belive Krylon makes water-based primer and thinks you could use it on bare steel without issues...
 
Matt,

The original sandblasting job took us all day with the equipment we have, but we might try painting the snowthrower one more time with a good red oxide primer if the white Krylon comes off easier than the original factory paint. If we're not impressed with red oxide, then we'll use PPG primer for the rest even though it'll cost more $$ than I had planned. Thanks again!
 
All, another idea on pin removal, a question, and a laugh at my expense.

Someone said that it took four days to remove a roll pin from the clutch coupling and 1 hour to split the tractor. That’s what it took me. I figure one day to remove the pin for every decade that it was in.


Idea.
Well, I finally got my pin out but a somewhat a cost. Before I gave up I drilled a 0.5” hole in the “tunnel” right above the coupling pin. That way I could line up the pin punch with the pin, block the coupling from below, and hit the punch with a BFH (7 lb. drill hammer). About 3 big hits started the pin moving. I know, probably shouldn’t have drilled the hole but there are already two others put there by the manufacturer that aren’t used.


Question.
Here’s what the pin looks like. What does this mean?

179945.jpg


Laugh.
I started putting the K301 back together. I installed the new governor gear, cross shaft, and camshaft. I never understood how the governor worked so I spun the camshaft to see how it would affect the governor. NOTHING happened. I must have spun the camshaft for 15 minutes and, still, could not figure out how the thing worked. Finally, I gave up and, right before I went upstairs, I looked at my manual. Dooh! Here is what my shaft looks like.

179946.jpg
 
Richard...I kinda have a thing for oil bath air cleaners too......
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I do however like the idea of retro fitting a K&N inside it......never thought of doing something like that.
 
Don; Nice job on the loader and tractor. I have about 7 or 8 tractors that need that same TLC.
 
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