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Archive through October 19, 2008

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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enei

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 2, 2006
Messages
85
displayname
eric nei
Hey Folks,

Been a long time since I've been here. Maybe a year. Started my own business and that has been keeping me pretty busy. In the mean time my 1650 has been sitting idle with a couple problems I haven't had time to deal with. Anyway. One problem I got figured out. Did you know that your tractor won't run well when the carb has rattles loose? Second problem. My tractor is killing batteries. I'm guessing either the starter generator or votage regulator is at fault. Can someone explain in laymens terms how to figure this out?

Eric
 
After hooking my chain link fence with the gauge wheel bracket bolt on my 54" (ZTR) deck for the 3rd time, I decided it was time for a fix....

Before....

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After...

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Spent Saturday picking corn (215 bu/acre corn...)

Dad added a 280 bu. center dump wagon to help out the truck and keep things moving. And we still were using the "old school" 200 bu. barge wagon behind the 656 too.....fun day, even if the lines at the elevator were looooong....

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Thomas C. Bradshaw,
either you're low on Hy-Tran, air in the fluid, and/or a plugged or non IH branded filter,
 
Oh...and the beans are cut off of the PD field too........

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Hello. I have a Cub Cadet tractor that I have been rebuilding here in Oklahoma. It's a 106 with a 38" mower deck. I got it running and replaced the clutch, belts, and blades on the mower deck.

The only problem I have left is the charging system. The starter generator turns to start the motor, so I assume that it should work to change the battery in reverse. The service manual talks about setting the the gaps on the two relays in the voltage regulator. I have done that, but it still doesn't change.

There are adjustments for the closing voltage and the regulator voltage. How do you set the closing voltage, with the motor running? Also, I assume that once the closing voltage is set you just adjust the regulator voltage on the other relay with the motor running. Is that right?

Thanks in advance.

Lammy in Oklahoma
 
RUST QUESTION

My engine hoist hydraulic cylinder rod is coated with rust (deep black) on the top 8 to 10 of it's 18 3/4 inches. It apparently was left out in the weather (I just bought it at a pawn shop) with the ram partially up for quite a while. It seems to function OK, but it looks like crap. Is there any inexpensive, DIY way to remove the rust and polish the rod, without removing it from the cylinder, to return it to it's former machined appearance?

Thanks,

John-David Reaves
ROLL TIDE
 
CUB CADET PAINT

Went down to see my friendly ACE Hardware Paint guy last Friday. He was able to computer match the Penske/Federal/Cub Cadet yellow automotive paint I had used on my 169, but in a straight implement enamel. According to my Carquest Auto Paint guy, I can mix an enamel hardener and reducer (lacquer thinner or paint thinner) with the implement enamel and spray it. He said to mix it at 8 parts paint, 1 part reducer, and one part hardener. It will give a hard, glossy finish and last much longer than spray can enamel. It was considerably less than the polyurethane auto paint. The ACE enamel is $9.49 per quart, while the auto paint costs $33 per pint. Thought I'd pass this along for anyone who is interested. ACE can also match the IH white and IH red.

John-David Reaves
ROLL TIDE
 
Hi guys. I'm new here, but have been reading the forum for a while now. I have a couple of questions that hopefully you can answer. I have a model 100 that jumps out of reverse when backing up an incline. What is invloved in fixing this? I am also wondering if I can use a carb from a 10 hp on a 12 hp Kohler. Are the carbs the same , or is the one for a 12 hp larger? Thanks.
 
Hey guys, are there any grease points on the steering column, my steering is starting to get a little stiff when I make left turns, thanks.

Dave
 
Yesterday was fun! It doesn't take long to fill a grass sweeper with leaves! Sweep, dump on garden, spread with rake, till in.
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Another nice day, today, then a chance of snow turning to rain on Wednesday.
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Dave-
There is a grease zerk on the bottom end of the steering gear, which can be accessed from the bottom of the tractor. I'm not sure what model tractor we're talking about here, but you'll also want to grease the front spindle zerks as well.

If, after you try this, you find that the steering is still stiff, you may want to pull apart the spindles, clean them in mineral spirits, and reassemble with fresh grease. That will make a WORLD of difference.

Finally, if that does not fix the condition, you'll probably want to clean and rebuild the steering gear assembly per the instructions in the FAQ.

Hope this helps...
 
FRANK C. - Living on over two acres with 80+ trees, lots of maple, oak, etc., not many pines I gave up on My lawn sweeper years ago. It cleaned the yard really well but some places I could fill it in less than 50 feet. Son pulled the sweeper w/129 Hydro and I hauled to the burn pile with 72 & cart. TOO much work. My home-made lawn vac works much better. Try "MULCHING" the leaves with You mower deck discharge chute blocked off, IH used to include "Mulching plates" with their decks but a C-clamp & board work fine too.
DAVE H. - Only one zerk on the steering gearbox itself, nothing on the steering column. Plus the zerk on each spindle and most Cubbies had a zerk on the frt axle pivot, back right hand side.

STEVE B. - I assume that's Steve III checking the corn in the wagon out. He's about big enough to SOLO into town with the 656 & wagon! Just shows how OLD We're getting and how LONG ago PD #1 was!
Good news on the corn yield....is it dry? Everyone I talk to say it's still around 20%
 
John David:
If the rod is pitted and actually goes in the cylinder when retracted, it'll tear the seal in the end of the cylinder up in short order.. You can polish it with any of the usual techniques (fine sandpaper, emery cloth, etc.) but I'm afraid that it'll leak when laid horizontal. On the other hand, what've you got to lose at this point?? That's not the pressure side of the cylinder, so it's residual oil and the cylinder should still lift OK....Just don't lay it down and it probably won't be too bad (IIRC on a cherry picker it will be upright most of the time anyway..)
 
Thanks guys but I'm not seeing any grease zirk on the bottom of the steering gear box on my 126, maybe someone will have a pic.

Dave
 
Brian, I like the Cub Shed! BTW, the are never big enough.

Steve B., nice wheel guard, reminds me of the wheel guards that were on the go-karts at the go-kart tracks I used to frequent as a kid.
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Charlie, what you gonna do with that 125?????
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It would go nicely with my set of 1x5s.
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