Dave, here's a photo of the underside of a 127 that shows the grease zerk location on the tractor. Photo was taken by "Big Bob".
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Archive through October 19, 2008
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dsacksteder
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- Dustin Sacksteder
just got a ported pump for my 129. Will it bolt right up with my existing tubes. Ive got the ports pluged until i get the lift for it.THanks dustin
kide
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- Gerry Ide
Dustin:
I'll let the experts chime in, but I don't think running the pump with lift ports plugged is a good idea - unless there is an internal bypass (not just a pressure relief) , I'd be concerned about what that part of the pump is doing (at a minimum, I'd think you would want a bypass hose that loops out and back in the two lift ports). I'm probably wrong, but thought I'd bring it up as I'd hate to see you ruin a good pump....
I'll let the experts chime in, but I don't think running the pump with lift ports plugged is a good idea - unless there is an internal bypass (not just a pressure relief) , I'd be concerned about what that part of the pump is doing (at a minimum, I'd think you would want a bypass hose that loops out and back in the two lift ports). I'm probably wrong, but thought I'd bring it up as I'd hate to see you ruin a good pump....
bbrigham
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- Brendan Brigham
Kendal, I believe you are correct. If the pump doesn't have somewhere to push the fluid it will lead to cavitation. I can imagine it would be as harmful to the pump as it is to boat props. Different application but same principal.
Kraig,
CLICK HERE to find out.
CLICK HERE to find out.
dsacksteder
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- Dustin Sacksteder
what about the tubes between ported and non ported?? also will the QL stuff like hydro lift and pumps be the same as the 1x9 tractors?Thanks,dustin
Dustin S,
Yes the pump will bolt right up with your existing lines. I hope I have this right so here goes, for running the pump with the ports capped, you will need to remove the spring and check valve cone from the implement lift relief valve on the right side of your hydro pump and put the plug back in. Keep the cone for future use when you get your hydraulic lift installed. Then on top remove the charge pump relief valve cap and change out the spring in there with the one you took out of implement lift relief valve. Keep that spring for future use when you get your hydraulic lift installed. Also there could be shims in the caps so be careful not to lose them. Kraig or Charlie posted the instructions for adding hydraulic lift to 169's that came from the factory with manual lift some time back and you have to basically do the opposite if your using a ported pump without the hydraulic lift.
Yes the pump will bolt right up with your existing lines. I hope I have this right so here goes, for running the pump with the ports capped, you will need to remove the spring and check valve cone from the implement lift relief valve on the right side of your hydro pump and put the plug back in. Keep the cone for future use when you get your hydraulic lift installed. Then on top remove the charge pump relief valve cap and change out the spring in there with the one you took out of implement lift relief valve. Keep that spring for future use when you get your hydraulic lift installed. Also there could be shims in the caps so be careful not to lose them. Kraig or Charlie posted the instructions for adding hydraulic lift to 169's that came from the factory with manual lift some time back and you have to basically do the opposite if your using a ported pump without the hydraulic lift.
Dustin S,
The key difference between QL and 1X9 hydraulic lift components is the lift control valve and attachment, control arm handle and the two hydraulic lines that run to the control valve. Everything else is the same. On 1x9 series the control valve is mounted to the left side of the main control tower pedestal on the inside whereas the QL series had the valve directly mounted on the steering column tube with two C-clamps. If you use the parts lookup link at the top of the page lookup the hydraulic lift components for a 149 and 1450 you will see the differences. You may be able to use a QL hydraulic lift control valve in a 1X9 series but you may have to drill a hole in the left side your pedestal tower and install a bushing to support left end of the control arm. I have not attempted to do this but there may be others who have.
The key difference between QL and 1X9 hydraulic lift components is the lift control valve and attachment, control arm handle and the two hydraulic lines that run to the control valve. Everything else is the same. On 1x9 series the control valve is mounted to the left side of the main control tower pedestal on the inside whereas the QL series had the valve directly mounted on the steering column tube with two C-clamps. If you use the parts lookup link at the top of the page lookup the hydraulic lift components for a 149 and 1450 you will see the differences. You may be able to use a QL hydraulic lift control valve in a 1X9 series but you may have to drill a hole in the left side your pedestal tower and install a bushing to support left end of the control arm. I have not attempted to do this but there may be others who have.
Charlie, ah, someone messed it up with home brewed hydraulics. Argh!
klejeune
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- Keith LeJeune
Dave H,
When you say stiff turning left, is it almost like it's grabbing and grinding a little? On my 100 when turning left kind of grinds a little. If the drag link is disconnected the steering box feels very smooth while turning the wheel. Hook up the linkage and it's got a little drag to it just when you get to the very far left. I've got a newer spindle on the left with clean grease and I just put new/good joints on all linkages. I've also cleaned up the right spindle and greased it up too. It steers much better today.
Un-related:
I picked up this cart last week from up north of Jerry B area. A little Crapsman cart, says 200 lb capacity but I think that's just because of the light weight wheel barrow tires. One tire won't hold air very long as it is. I'll need to change them out before putting too much weight in it. Anyone use the Wally World trailer tires in 4.00 x 8?
When you say stiff turning left, is it almost like it's grabbing and grinding a little? On my 100 when turning left kind of grinds a little. If the drag link is disconnected the steering box feels very smooth while turning the wheel. Hook up the linkage and it's got a little drag to it just when you get to the very far left. I've got a newer spindle on the left with clean grease and I just put new/good joints on all linkages. I've also cleaned up the right spindle and greased it up too. It steers much better today.
Un-related:
I picked up this cart last week from up north of Jerry B area. A little Crapsman cart, says 200 lb capacity but I think that's just because of the light weight wheel barrow tires. One tire won't hold air very long as it is. I'll need to change them out before putting too much weight in it. Anyone use the Wally World trailer tires in 4.00 x 8?
KEITH - Last tire plant I knew of making 4.00/4.80 X 8's was "Shuttered" about 3-4 yrs ago, Kelly-Springfield Plant in Freeport, IL...owned & operated by Good Year.
Even if they have an American name on them I think all those small tires are made in China now. Sad isn't it?
Even if they have an American name on them I think all those small tires are made in China now. Sad isn't it?
kide
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Dennis:
The worst thing is that holding air seems to be just a concept to the Chinese tire mfrs.. I use more Slime in the various yard tools with Chinese tires than I ever did when I was riding dirt bike (back in the stone age..)
The worst thing is that holding air seems to be just a concept to the Chinese tire mfrs.. I use more Slime in the various yard tools with Chinese tires than I ever did when I was riding dirt bike (back in the stone age..)
KENDELL - Even those small inner tubes are made in China now.
. I replaced the tires/tubes on My junky old Agri-fab cart maybe five years ago. I'd just unhooked from the cart beside the shop and pulled the Cubbie into the shop and was turning the lights off and locking the door to walk out and the tire blew on the empty cart. New tube and a pair of tires, I got whatever the local hardware store had on the shelf. Yep, made in China.
I need tires for the front of the 70 & 72....the factory GY's are getting a little weather-checked after 40 and 43 years. Don't know what to get for them but I don't want tires from China, Ugoslavia, Thailand, India, or Poland, Just something from the USA will do.
I never had much tire problems with My old motorcycles back in the day. I could never keep the bike running long enough to wear them out!
Seriously, I outgrew the first two little Honda's real quick but then made the mystake of buying a Harley-Davidson made by Amerachi-Harley Davidson in Italy during H-D's dark days of AMF ownership, Not the good one, the 100 cc BAJA but the 125 CC street bike with trials tires, which actually was a decent bike for what I used it for.....I just blew it up TWICE one summer. It got half a new engine the second time! Then I had a '73 Yamaha RD-350 for a couple years after college, Nice FAST bike. And then in '83 I bought My high school dream bike, an OSSA 250 Six Day Replica enduro bike. When new in '73 it would have cost $1600-1800 but I paid $100 and it hadn't been run in 4-5 years. I had it running inside an hour! Still wish I hadn't given the bike away....it'd be worth more than all My Cubbies combined! I actually spent a TON of hours riding trails inside the Moline & East Moline, IL city limits with that thing. Deare & Co. corp. H-Q was maybe 3-4 miles from My house...and they had a LOT of ground around the Rusty Palace.
I need tires for the front of the 70 & 72....the factory GY's are getting a little weather-checked after 40 and 43 years. Don't know what to get for them but I don't want tires from China, Ugoslavia, Thailand, India, or Poland, Just something from the USA will do.
I never had much tire problems with My old motorcycles back in the day. I could never keep the bike running long enough to wear them out!
KENDELL IDE
Thanks for the remarks/comments. I have the brand new 8 ton ram (with warranty), which cost me $32. I'm wondering now if I should keep it or take it back?? I bought some new hardware at the CO-OP for the hoist. Cost - about $12. I had to buy one 3/4 inch hex screw and four 9/16 hex screws and matching nuts/washers from NAPA. Cost - $28. I'm taking the NAPA stuff back and purchasing from someone else. Heck, even ACE is half that price or less. Reason I didn't get them from the CO-OP is because they didn't have the length fasteners I needed. Guess eveything in life is a learning experience??
BTW, the black rust on the cylinder piston rod has turned into a dark bluing, like on a gun barrel. Once I take fine grade steel wool and buff it lightly by hand, it becomes smooth as glass and looks just exactly like gun bluing? Too bad I can't blue the whole piston rod??
John-David Reaves
ROLL TIDE
Thanks for the remarks/comments. I have the brand new 8 ton ram (with warranty), which cost me $32. I'm wondering now if I should keep it or take it back?? I bought some new hardware at the CO-OP for the hoist. Cost - about $12. I had to buy one 3/4 inch hex screw and four 9/16 hex screws and matching nuts/washers from NAPA. Cost - $28. I'm taking the NAPA stuff back and purchasing from someone else. Heck, even ACE is half that price or less. Reason I didn't get them from the CO-OP is because they didn't have the length fasteners I needed. Guess eveything in life is a learning experience??
BTW, the black rust on the cylinder piston rod has turned into a dark bluing, like on a gun barrel. Once I take fine grade steel wool and buff it lightly by hand, it becomes smooth as glass and looks just exactly like gun bluing? Too bad I can't blue the whole piston rod??
John-David Reaves
ROLL TIDE
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- Allen Schumacher
Keith. I have one of those little trailers also. Dont really remember the exact rating, but 2 summers ago I helped neighbor move crushed stone for his patio. Had that critter 3/4 full of stone, I know that was much more than 200#'s. P.S. if your going to back-up to things with that trailer any amount of times, you might want to lengthen the tongue about 15-18 inches. With that it actually goes where you want it to. JMHO
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