Archive through October 17, 2006

[mreed]

Does somebody have a picture that shows how the front plow is attached to a cub 71 or 70? I can't get mine on there. The holes It seems the pins should go in don't quite line up and the rear part of the plow frame hangs up on the lift arms underneath. I bought the tractor and plow from Urschel's CCC and it is suppose to be the correct one for the tractor. I wish I had a camera to post pics of it.

 

[thoffman]

Looks like I can have Saturday off! Yee haw!!! Now lets hope for good weather.

 

[digger]

Michael R.

 

[digger]

Guess I forgot one,

 

[mreed]

Ok if I am seeing things right there are two plates or extentions that are bolted or welded to the outside of the front mounting brackets that I am missing or I have the wrong plow frame for my tractor. Would any of the sponsers have these? I am also missing the lift arm which I guess is pretty typical. Thanks for the pictures!

 

[digger]

Michael,
I sent you something via email that might help.

 

[mreed]

Ok My tractor has the bracket setup in illust.5 and for whatever reason that hole they show the pin in is about an 1/8 inch off. It needs to go back that 1/8 inch. I think the best course would be to grind out the slots on the rear of the frame to make up for the difference. What do you think? If that works then I just need that lift rod. Thanks in advance for your time and help.

 

[digger]

Michael,
Since I've never put a blade on a NF tractor, I think we better have someone else chime in here to make sure you get it right.

 

[lbuttke]

Michael R.
Loosen the 2 bolts and 2 large screws shown in "illust 5", you may be able to gain that 1/8".
If not, grinding the rear slots might work.
But first I would make sure you gots all the parts needed befor you start grinding away. If you are missing those short exstensions, they dont look to hard to make. A drill and hacksaw and a lenght of flat iron and 15 minutes looks like all it would take to make a set.
The main thing here to rember it to have the plow blade sit level with the ground when at full angle, so some adjusting on the lenght may be needed.

 

[bmoore]

Michael R,
I had a horrible time trying to get the snow blade mounted on my 147 when I first tried. I purchased it separate from the tractor. It ended up that the subframe had been "straightened," possibly by a PO jacking up the tractor using the bracing plate welded between the two arms of the subframe as a lift point. Ramming into stuff could do the same thing, especially if it's set not to trip with the springs. If the shaft the slots are supposed to fit in is worn when that's done, it would change (increase) the length between the mounting points. I ended up bending the subframe arms by putting a long section of pipe over the arms and heating the area where the bend was, then carefully bending both arms back to the same angle until it fit.
I think yours is supposed to be straight (I don't have a 100), where mine was supposed to have a bend. If the vertical arms on your subframe have been bent forward, it would do the same thing. Might be worth checking.

 

[kmchone]

Hey guys,thought I would show off my newest edition to the family,It has a kt17 series 2 and hydro lift,serial#682292,It only has 300 hrs. on the meter,I believe its correct because everything on the inside of the tractor looks new and no wore spots anywhere.I was wondering why its got alluminum axel tubs and cast rearend and are these just as strong???

 

[dandre]

Michael, I don't think you need the short extensions that "B" is pointing to in the first picture. If you have the mower mounting bracket as in illustration 5, the subframe is pined to the mower bracket "C" without the extensions. The extensions are used if you don't have the mower mounting bracket. As Lonnie said, by loosening the bolts, you can probably get enough movement to line it up.

 

[kmchone]

A few more,and yes they all live in my basement until I get my garage built,did I mention I had a great wife

<font color="ff0000">Yo, Ken, carriage return/ENTER between pictures, please!!!</font>

 

[sday]

Experience has taught me that pointless electronic ignition is the best thing for old engines since sliced bread. However, I read that most of these pointless ignitions are not useable on small engines that have flywheel charging systems. Is this true for all pointless systems?
Thanks, Scott

 

[pscilipote]

I'd appreciate some insight.
I have a CC 122 and have a new and properly adjusted clutch.
I still have an issue where it is often difficult to get into gear (first to reverse and vice versa). I often have to release the clutch just enough to turn the shaft a bit and then it slides into gear.
Any insights into what may be causing (and how to repair) this difficulty in shifting?

Thank you.
Peter

 

[kmcconaughey]

Scott, click on that "Kirk's Engines, Inc." link at the top of the page. David makes a couple of neat devices that don't replace the points but come close to making them last forever. Almost as good as electronic ingnition. One of them is called the "PointSaver" the other is called the "Trandenser".

 

[kmcconaughey]

Ken, WOW! That's a beauty, actually there are 4 beauties there! More photos of the yellow and white ones please.

 

[digger]

Just about the time you get thibgs straightened out for winter, another pile comes along!

 

[kmcconaughey]

Charlie, should I drive down and help you straighten that pile out? I bet I can find some room at my place for some of it.

 

[rdehli]

Charlie ...just wonderin if that pile came from Waukon too!!!!!