Archive through October 14, 2008
- Thread starter jreed
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- Brian Branstetter
Narrow frame verus wide frame.... Take cover!!
Charlie, can you say 'Lock and Load'
Charlie, can you say 'Lock and Load'
Evenin' guys, thought I'd keep you all posted on the restoration of my 100. Got it all tore down last week and stripped and primed on friday. Yesterday I got the paint about laid down on the frame and tranny and a couple of coats of clear laquer on top of that. I'm pretty happy with it so far. Supposed to be rainy here tomarrow so hopefully I can get some of the smaller stuff stripped and primed.
I'm glad you posted on those felt washers earlier Kraig, I may go that route myself when I get this back together.
That clear really makes it look nice, and that stuff is hard! hopefully this will go a long way towards making the finish last.
I'm glad you posted on those felt washers earlier Kraig, I may go that route myself when I get this back together.
That clear really makes it look nice, and that stuff is hard! hopefully this will go a long way towards making the finish last.
Your guess is as good as mine, previous owner put it on there like that. this poor thing sat out in the weather for who knows how long and I can't get any of the exhaust parts loose. I'm not sure what I'm going to do with it
I know I don't like it like it is now.
Jeff,
The hydro is pretty much the same on a 149 and a 1450. Early 1450's had external disc brakes, later 1450's had internal brakes in the transmission. Other differences on the 1450 are: Magneto ignition and a flywheel starter instead of a starter-generator on the 149, electric PTO instead of mechanical, side panels on the engine compartment, rubber ISO mounts for the engine, rag joints at both ends of the driveshaft, hydro speed lever is different. I may be missing a few details. I believe any attachments that work on a 149 will work on a 1450 and vise-versa.
As far as which is better, well that a personal opinion. I used to think the 149 was superior, due to it's simpler design, but I've come to think that most, if not all, the differences on the 1450's are improvements. Of course, that's just my opinion, and it's worth the price you paid for it!
The hydro is pretty much the same on a 149 and a 1450. Early 1450's had external disc brakes, later 1450's had internal brakes in the transmission. Other differences on the 1450 are: Magneto ignition and a flywheel starter instead of a starter-generator on the 149, electric PTO instead of mechanical, side panels on the engine compartment, rubber ISO mounts for the engine, rag joints at both ends of the driveshaft, hydro speed lever is different. I may be missing a few details. I believe any attachments that work on a 149 will work on a 1450 and vise-versa.
As far as which is better, well that a personal opinion. I used to think the 149 was superior, due to it's simpler design, but I've come to think that most, if not all, the differences on the 1450's are improvements. Of course, that's just my opinion, and it's worth the price you paid for it!
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Chris C.-
The 1450 doesn't have magneto ignition, it still has a coil, points, and condenser.
The 1450 doesn't have magneto ignition, it still has a coil, points, and condenser.
lchockensmith
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- Lucas Craig Hockensmith
could someone give me some info on my original mower deck i went to replace the pto spindle bearings the bottom one fits in tight,but the top one falls right in.not sure if the lock washer is supposed to hold the bearing from turning or the pulley is worn.anyone with any info would be great. thanks
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- Brian Branstetter
Whoops. I misread his post...
Battery issue part 2...
What I thought was a battery issue may not be. Last night I used a meter to test the battery and it appeared fine. The tractor fired up and ran. I shut it off waited 20 minutes and it fired up again. I noticed a spark this time on the negative of the battery. When I shut it off and tried to fire it...Nothing, the gauge didn't move and there was no click of any kind from the switch. The battery still showed 12.34 volts. Is the issue with the switch or the soliniod? Or am I way off track? (propably the later of the two)
What I thought was a battery issue may not be. Last night I used a meter to test the battery and it appeared fine. The tractor fired up and ran. I shut it off waited 20 minutes and it fired up again. I noticed a spark this time on the negative of the battery. When I shut it off and tried to fire it...Nothing, the gauge didn't move and there was no click of any kind from the switch. The battery still showed 12.34 volts. Is the issue with the switch or the soliniod? Or am I way off track? (propably the later of the two)
dsacksteder
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- Dustin Sacksteder
Im looking for an exploded view the steering colum assembly. The shaft or tube that runs from the dash to the "box"(where all the little parts are) slides up and down. I dont know if this tube has slipped out or what? Its for a 1x8/9.
Dustin S.
Click the ole Parts Lookup Button above and enter in your model number and you will find all kinds of neat exploded views of everything.
Click the ole Parts Lookup Button above and enter in your model number and you will find all kinds of neat exploded views of everything.
Dustin, that same thing happened to my #2 125, I've heard of it happening to others as well. The steel tube is just press fit into the cast aluminum gear housing so over time it works itself loose. The most common fix I've heard of is to use JB Weld (Sorry KENtucky!) and some short sheet metal screws to fit it together. I believe you will have to remove the steering column from the tractor to perform this fix.
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- Home of the Plow Special
Dustin/Kraig-
I've fixed them using JB Weld, but used pop-rivets instead of sheet metal screws. Just another option I guess...
I suppose if a guy had access to a pipe expander at a muffler-shop he could re-expand the pipe to make it a press fit again, but maybe it would just fall apart again soon afterward since the metal would probably be weakened at that point.
I've fixed them using JB Weld, but used pop-rivets instead of sheet metal screws. Just another option I guess...
I suppose if a guy had access to a pipe expander at a muffler-shop he could re-expand the pipe to make it a press fit again, but maybe it would just fall apart again soon afterward since the metal would probably be weakened at that point.
