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Archive through October 07, 2011

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Testing out the new Cub ramps! I have this outbuilding that is about 12" above the ground. Built new ramps to get in an out. They should also work well with pick up truck or whatever.

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Ryan, very nice! Say that appears to be a SIMS cab. Click HERE for photos of a complete cab and other info.
 
Iam looking to mount my #1 tiller on my 782 besides changing the pully on the gearbox gor 1/2 to a 5/8 pulley will I need anything slse???


TIA
 
Thanks Kraig. I was wondering where all the peices go. It looks as if the footpegs need to be removed? Also, can you leave the sleeve hitch on it when installing the cab?
 
Rob-that is all you will need to do to the gearbox plus you will need a mule drive with 5/8 pulleys and the right belt.
 
Hugh

thank you... I thought that was all I qwas needin but overheard some talk of an adapter kit???
 
Remember that hour meter Charlie yelled at me about? Haha, well it'll be here this week sometime and I was planning on mounting it in the same spot the 169s have theirs, as far as wiring it goes, I was going to just put the positive and negative wires to the corresponding poles on my coil...good or bad idea?
 
Glenn, don't put any extra grounds on your coil. It could kill your ignition. At the very least cause anouther problem later on trying to diagnose a fault. Take the ground to the dash tower (steel part) or frame or even straight to the battery. only the pos. needs to be switched.
 
Thanks Dave, Ill post pictures once I get my new front feet on and the hour meter all wired up, and Ill post the new muffler once I get it bead blasted and painted. Todays project is hauling dirt to finish leveling the yard some and transporting the never ending firewood. Not excited about stacking it all either lol.
 
Glen,

Looking at the wiring diagrams for the quiet lines, the hour meter is powered directly from the key switch.

Earlier models had the coil, & electric lift wired from the key switch.

I would wire from the key switch, or maybe the ammeter.
dunno.gif
 
I think I will wire it to the ammeter since Ive already piggybacked the ignition switch once for the aux lights Im running.
 
Heres some pictures of the days projects: 1: move firewood (Think the trailers full enough? Didnt lose one piece!)

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2: Clean the space the firewood was in and turn it into the much needed parking apron off the driveway. My sister took these pictures, good action shots haha

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I'll probably be nominated for the duh of the week but here goes.

Ok, weird problem that is perplexing me with my 108. It will on occasion quit flowing fuel to the carb.
I've totally cleaned the tank out, and even removed the screen on the petcock.
Last time it happened I took the float and needle valve out of the carb....no gas.
Tank was full and valve was on.
In all situations, If I pressurize the tank (read lips sealed on filler..blah!) it starts flowing and I'm motoring again for hours on end.

I've had the tank off twice and the inside is spotless, fuel line is new...again.Filter new...again.
My neighbors are starting to think I'm huffing gas....any ideas? Air bubble?
 
Rick, Is your fuel filter for a small engine? <font size="-2">we all huff gas once in a while, only a few really appreciate it properly</font>
 
Rick, have you checked the 90 degree fuel fitting at the carb? I had something in there once and it would restrict it enough to not run good for a few minutes and then quit. Wait a few and it would start..... Took me a while to figure that one out. Every time I took the bowl off carb there was gas in it and it would come out the needle but just not fast enough.
 
Rick,
Is the filter (I assume its an in Line?) for a gravity flow fuel system? If it is one for use with a fuel pump, it will not flow enough fuel to keep a gravity system operating and the carb will eventually run out of gas........
 

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