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Archive through October 04, 2010

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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I have a minerature one of these hoists....

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99% designed for my new hayrack....

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I'm shooting for 50 deg dump angle min. (and just got it figured out too, using a toggle link in the hoist.
 
STEVE B. - You have the plans for that hoist on CAD? Interested in selling them? I tried to figure out the toggle in Midwest's hoists but couldn't find good enough pic's.

I luv my hyd. dump cart, handly as all get out, but I'd still like something I could load with one of my loader tractors with the trip bucket and they're kinda hard on stuff when you rest the bucket on the sides of the box and trip the bucket. BT-DT with my old dump cart. Was a half day job beating the dents out & welding it back together.
 
Dennis Frisk

I have no idea if this will work when its got a load full of soil.But here is my first attempt at a lift on my trailer. It moves up and down ,but I might need more angle to get the wet stuff out. Time will tell.
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With all this talk of a center blade, makes me get ideas about what I picked up today. I was going to convert all of these over into a sleeve hitch type, but the rear blade may become a center blade.

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DONALD - Looks like you have quite a bit of cylinder stroke left, and I'd guess your at 60 deg. already. If you have to and if you have the system pressure you can set that trailer right on it's end vertical. Stuff will fall out IF it's going to fall out then.

If your loading with your loader with the hyd. bucket you can load whatever you can dump.
The big load I loaded last week was only about two buckets and I was loading towards the front. That's the problem when you go from full scale to quarter scale stuff. Kinda like when I was having crushed rock loaded in my Chevy LUV pickup built by Izuzu, the bucket on the end loader was BIGGER than my truck. He loaded 5-axle semi's with alum. dump trailers in three scoops, and the last one wasn't a full scoop. He got a cute little pile of rock in one corner of his bucket and dribbled about a quarter of it into my truck, it was two THOUSAND pounds, 2-1/2 to three times what my truck should have hauled.
 
Art A. Neat pic of your daughter's plow.
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Terry R. About that hydraulic lift on that Cub that you just picked up.... Fancy claims "kitty dibbies" on it if you decide to part with it.
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So you'll have to e:mail him and let him know.

Tyler S. I asked a couple of people that know more than I do about the 15U and using it for a log splitter. They agree with what everyone else and I have told you; .... They are really too light duty for what you want to use it for. A front pto driven two stage pump would be better suited. Of course it is your tractor.... (sigh)
 
MATT - How did you get your blade to lift so high? Shorten the links between the mid-rockshaft & your mule drive?

When I built my blade the 72 still had the 6-12 turf tires on the back, it's since gotten 23-8.50 Firestones which does effect the depth the blade cuts when angled and when straight for that matter. Now that it's on the 70 with the same 6-12's the mule drive must be just enough lower that it still cuts deeper towards the back end of the angled blade. The blade was made for the horizontal bars of the mule drive to be level, and with the changes of tires & tractors/mule drives they're not anymore. But for most grading it's really not that big of a problem. There's enough slop in the mule drive and the blade pivot that I can either REALLY make it dig when I stand on the blade, or compensate so it grades level.
 
Dennis-

The carriage is a from a NF pin-on deck and stock lift links...that's how high it wound up going.
 
Don T,
You could always Slip-Plate the trailer bed....
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Scott Tanner... 149 showing signs of life!!!

I have to get a load of dirt on the trailer before I know what it will do. If It does not dump ,I will start over and use a scissor style lift and use a shorter cylinder I have. I will get the loader out in the am and give it a test. I hope it works so I can move on to another project (450 snow blower refurbish). I do have slip plate here ,lol but i`am saving it for my snow blower
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I'm working on a 149 Hydro linkages bringing them back up to spec (getting the wear/slop out of them). I used Nylatron for the linkage that the adjustment rod connecting pin connects to, this originally had a dry bushing. Now my question the shaft that goes through the pump, and has the springs to keep the pump from jumping/bucking when a adjustment is made is also wore, with plenty of slop. I bored the cast iron bushing out, and pressed in a bronze bushing. Even with all my measuring etc. I went oversized just a tad, it's still much better, BUT I want this perfect.

What do you think is the best material to use here Nylatron, or Bronze ? I have seen Nylatron wear out a stainless shaft, and it needs no lube so to speak, but the lifespan is ten fold if you apply a lubricant. Then you have bronze, no special alloy here, and bronze is a time proven bushing material for sure. Give me some ideas.

One more thing, all said, and done cast iron may be the best bushing material available able to hold lubricant, and very stable/easy to machine as well. The idea in the end is a replaceable bushing as to not wear the shaft which would be much more costly replacement/repair.
 
Wow. Belly blades with the founder on board, more belly blades (I want one!!) Cool dump trailers, (I want one!!) and Clint's question on no slop in the linkages pales in comparison to my addition this evening. As said previously, the 149 now belongs to my wife. She wants custom colors and will get them.
I could not in all respect to IH not have some federal yeller so the SP timing mark got the job.

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Don T. Please be careful with your lift experiment tomorrow...dont put too much pressure on thecylinder. I know hydraulics can push a lot, but the real low attack angle of the cylinder has to make me wonder if your more likely to shove the box off the wheels than lift it. As Red-Green says 'We're all cheering for 'ya"
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Denny,

When I get the final design tweaked, I'll post a side view dimensioned drawing.
 
Can anyone give me a clue on the proper wheel back spacing for a cub with 23x8.5x12 tires would be? I was looking at the different wheels I have and they go from 1" to 2" back space. I'm putting my winter tires on the 2" wheels to try and keep as much tire under the fender as possible. Any help is always greatly appreciated.
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Chris,

Remember that chains require extra fender clearance, don't get them too close.
 
Denny,

This is where I'm at so far, about 47 deg dump angle, but there's still some left in it if I play with the lengths of the linkages. I jhave also included some shots of the prototype.

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Note how the toggle link allows a large cylinder angle early on, and therefore lots of lifting force when you really need it. It's pushing against a big angle iron block welded in the rear of the hoist frame for the first 1/3 of it's travel. Then part way up "switches" pivot points to the lower toggle link pivot, allowing the cylinder to bypass itself and extend the hoist legs to nearly full extension.
 

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