Archive through October 01, 2011

[jbaker]

Norm my bad..... its called the heat deflector assembly
IH-106501-C94 Deflector Assy, Heat

 

[wshytle]

John B-

That 123 looks like it has been taken care of and also repowered by the color of the engine. Good find.

I was replacing the loose flywheel today and after blowing in the engine and seeing some dirt come out I decided to go ahead and clean the engine fins. I'm glad I did. This engine ran well before I parked it and started on the clutch. I couldn't see any of this dirt at first. I did notice a head gasket leak and found this after removing the head and shrouds.

I've already cleaned the tin and head so tomorrow I'm thinking pressure washer for the block. I'm going to lap the valves anyway and go back with fresh oil so...

I can't understand how this engine ran with that fouled up plug.

 

[mhomrighausen]

John B. Very nice First Cub Cadet. You will find tht you can't stop with just one. Thank You for posting the pictures.

Wayne S. That is one dirty head there. It's amazing that it ran well like that.

 

[aschumacher]

Wayne, RE: plug. I'm no expert here but, that doesn't look like carbon fouling with oil mixed in. That would divert your spark. What you have looks like deposits from stuff in the fuel, looks ugley but not electricaly conductive. <font size="-2">Get the part number off that plug and buy another!</font>

 

[wshytle]

Allen-

You're saying the build up around the end of the spark plug could be from the additives building up and that they aren't conductive therefore the engine could still run? If you look closely to the head pic on the right side beside the valves is a little cliff of deposit sticking up that formed in the head but broke loose. I haven't run this tractor much and I'm now glad. It had the broken teaser from the git-go so I just parked it and put it on the to do list. The PO was using it though with a 48" deck. I think I might have saved a cubs life by buying it.

 

[glippert]

Norm B - As Lucas said, the only difference (that I'm aware of) between the 1450 & 1650 is the engine size. Regarding the need to replace the dash, if you replace the missing parts the current one will last quite a while. There was some discussion a year or two ago about repairing that (common) problem. I think Don Tanner fixed one with a particular fiberglass. Maybe he'll let us know how it turned out and how it's held up.

 

[dclinansmith]

Timothy P. I worked a frozen brake piston out of a model 70. I started with a generous application of PB Blaster and some gentle taps with a hammer and a soft wooden pin. I took about 8" of 5/8 steel rod and turned the first couple inches down so it would just slip into the center of the piston. Then I cross drilled it about 5/8" from the end and tapped for a 10-32 capscrew. Next I cut it length wise so that screws from each side would push against each other and spread the two sides apart. Then I inserted it in the piston and tightened the screws. From there vice grips on the rod and a few minutes of working back and forth and the piston finally wiggled out of the hole. It came out without a scratch on anything. Then I cleaned the piston and bore an installed a new o-ring, works fine.

 

[tpennell]

David, thanks for the advice. I will give it a try. Tim P.

 

[pdorow]

David C, what a great idea!

 

[kmild]

Hey there, does anyone know the part# for mule drive ldler pulley tension spring for 48" deck on a Cub Cadet 147 series? Can't find parts diagram for mule drive anywhere. Thanks, Ken

 

[mhomrighausen]

Good Morning, All.

Quiet here this morning. Everyone must be out enjoying the weather and playing with their Cub Cadets.

Ken M. See if this helps. If not then CLICK HERE for more information... Different deck.

 

[dross]

Ken, It's in "attachments" on the parts look-up. That is, everyting but that spring. Good question.

 

[fcurrier]

Interesting. What we call a mule drive Parts Lookup (I use Partstree.com) calls a Hitch, Quick Attachment. This pic is for Ser. # 400,001 to 529,999. IH-489607-R4. ($7.68).

Good morning, Fancy. Rainy weekend, here. I saw that Snowshoe Mt., North Carolina had 4" of snow Sept. 30.

 

[dross]

Frank. Yep, I looked in the earlier serial number apparently twice cause I thought I checked both. it's early.

 

[bclarke]

folks,
i have a 1973 model 86. has run like a charm until . . . tried to start it this am and all i got was a click. Battery is fine. thoughts on what the problem may be?

thanks, brian

 

[aschumacher]

Brian, first thing. Check/clean ALL your ground wire connections. Cubs are well known for rust at connecting locations.
"Just clicks"...usually says low voltage. Did you put a meter on the battery when you checked when cranking? Even if its a new battery, if the voltage regulator is faulty you wount charge the battery.

 

[jhover]

Francis

Thanks for the info i bypassed the clutch safery switch and it fired right up, i was able to get the plow on and ready for a snow filled winter Thanks a bunch

 

[gcoleman]

Wayne, thats one dirty little Kohler!

John, congrats on the 123, VERY nice tractor!

Im still having alot of blowby once hot and my engine will smoke just a hair of oil smoke on hard acceleration under load (engaging the deck and bumping up the throttle some)...I know it can take up to a hundred or so hours for the rings to seat but I cant help but wonder if I was sold the wrong or mismarked rings or perhaps the breaks in the rings somehow shifted and lined up? Its gotta have at least twenty five hours on it since rebuild, little guys been worked alot since I brought him back to life. Ideas? (I need an hour meter...'nuff said there haha)

 

[aschumacher]

Glen, look here...

http://www.surpluscenter.com/sort.asp?catname=&byKeyword=yes&search=hour%20meter

 

[dross]

Glenn, The rings do rotate on the piston. What tractor is this on. To really break one in you should pull it.