• This community needs YOUR help today. With the ever increasing fees of everything (server, software, domain, e-mail) , we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of IH Cub Cadets. You get a lot of great new account perks including access to private forums. If you sign up for annual, I will ship a few IH Cub Cadet Forum decals too in addition to all the account perks you get. You can see what it looks like below.

    Sign up here: https://www.ihcubcadet.com/account/upgrades

Archive through October 01, 2009

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Kraig M, Add a "2" in front of those belt prices and you are in the "modern" ballpark. I paid $26 for my 48" deck drive belt. The deck belt costs...around $27.00.

Well, Im still fed up with my 124
swear.gif
I changed the generator and it still doesnt charge or start. When I turn the key it just clicks and the sound is coming form the dash tower. So today im gonna change the celeniod and see what happens.
 
OK Guys, Does anyone know the ID of the center of a driving plate assembly (I call it the 3 pin clutch driver) without the bushing? I just took one out and the bushing was missing. The driveshaft has been just flying around in there but it doesn't look wallowed out. The outside diameter of a new bushing would also give me what I need to know. The parts look-up doesn't give these dimensions that I can find.
Hope someone can help, Wayne
 
PAUL BELL - Interesting comment You make about the magneto equipped Kohlers. The K181 on my lawn vac is still a point & coil ignition (The engine was a K181S replacement engine installed in my 72 about 2-3 yrs before I bought it in Jan '81) Anyhow, I run a wire from the battery to the ignition coil to energize the ignition, and start the engine with a rope. Full choke and set the throttle for about 1/3 open and even after setting for a year it will pop off on the first or second pull, and if I get to the choke quick enough it will clean out and settle into the famous smooth Kohler small block idle. I think it starts really great.
I had a really tired K161 in the vac when I first built it, out of a '61-'63 vintage CC, oil bath air cleaner and all. It ran well enough, pull started easier due to blowby & smaller displacement, but Dad needed to put it back in the tractor it came out of. So I rebuilt the K181, I thought I'd pulled a cam follower out of it trying to make an air compressor back in '85 or '86 but it was all there. New rings, rod, & exh. valve and it runs.
 
I did get some good info today if the belt I just got doesnt work. Parts counter guy at the Cub dealer told me to go to Carquest in Watkins Glen because they always have odd sized belts. I asked why and he explained that all the machinery, tractors, and harvesting equipment that there is around due to the large amounts of wineries and farms in the area. If they need a belt, they need it ASAP! I hadnt thought of that but it does make a ton of sense! Anyhow I'm going out to the "Cubhouse" to mess with yet another belt!
 
Kendall, Richard P,
Kohler had/used at least 4 (actually 5 I believe)different magneto systems of thier own design on the K161, and the system used on the Cub Cadet Original, 70, 71, and 72 with recoil start was what the Kohler parts manual calls the L1 Stator, Rotor-magneto assembly. The original P/N for the assembly was C-230089, and it uses a rotating magnet, P/N 230360, that slips over the crankshaft and is keyed to it. The flywheel, Kohler P/N 231276, is used on both the electric start and recoil start K161 versions used in the Cub Cadets. There were versions of the K161 that had a stator alternator that used flywheels with built in magnets, but they were not used as original equipment in/on Cub Cadets. You can see a breakdown of the magneto in the parts look-up above, just type in Cub Cadet for the model number since the Original does not have a model number, to see the engine and mag for the Original

Part of the problem I have seen with the coil is the case (or core, for lack of a better words), cracks over time, and the performance of the coil decreases. The coil case/core on my 72 was cracked when I got it, and the condenser had been replaced with a battery ignition type condenser mounted on the outside of the blower housing, and spliced into the wiring going to the points. I don't know if it worked or not, because I replaced both with the correct parts from another recoil start engine.
 
Paul:
Looked at the K-161 parts blowup - still trying to wrap my mind around the small diameter that magnet swung in - the influence of the magnetic field on the coil would seem to be of a much greater duration in degrees than when the magnets are on the ID of the flywheel.... On the (OT) Cushman systems, cracked coil coatings and breakdown of the insulation of the coil is not all that rare - they caution you on pulling the long gap test sparks, as that may help break the coil down. I like the battery ignition....
 
lol...haven't seen that in a while, Charlie must be ok

This weather keeps up and I'm gonna get the snow thrower ready. The rain has kept me from mowing and it's been getting cold enough the grass has slowed down. I can't even get the cab painted, gonna have to move it to my mothers to get any paint on it.
 
Finally got that freakin belt on! 3rd times the charm I guess!
 

Latest posts

Back
Top