mgonitzke
Well-known member
Richard-
Yep, looks like you've got some hard-to-find parts to track down...
Yep, looks like you've got some hard-to-find parts to track down...
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Archive through October 01, 2009
- Thread starter rdehli
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Charles, welcome!
The serial number indicates that it is indeed a model 128. The digits that I've put in bold here: 2050045u460288 are the "kind code", which indicate what model it is. The numerals after the "u" are the actual serial number. BTW $200 for a tractor WITH a loader is a steal! Ya done good IMO.
One more thing, we really like photos.
Kendell, you type too fast... that or I spent too much time adding emoticons.
Richard, nice find!
Kendell, you type too fast... that or I spent too much time adding emoticons.
Richard, nice find!
cgiambrone
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- Charles Giambrone
Thanks for the info. I'll get pics up this weekend. The loader on it looks to me to be homemade but it seems to work good. At some point someone had to paint the tractor a ugly purple I dont know why anyone would do that. I cant believe how solid these old tractors are. It is a 1973 I think and it still going on its own. Im sure i'll be asking lots of ??'s this winter while it is being restored.
cgiambrone
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- Charles Giambrone
thanks for the 73 thats what I thought it was from looking around the web
mstetar
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- Matt (Diesel Creek)
charles you lucky dog! you sole that poor thing! be sure to take some pictures and post em, because
ive been wanting a loader for a while now, but cant seem to find one, i wanted it to do some work around our camp... which isnt tooooo far from you, its in tionesta, might have to come try her out for ya after you get it done!
cgiambrone
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- Charles Giambrone
Oh ya down in tionesta. I was just pouring concrete in west hickory today up on little hickory rd. Its a nice area down there.
Charles G.
The 128s are sought after by pullers, who often paint them weird colors and do other cosmetic modifications not related to pulling. Thought about farting around with pulling my 102, but I'll keep the cosmetics intact. Strange it could have gone from a puller to a loader though!
The 128s are sought after by pullers, who often paint them weird colors and do other cosmetic modifications not related to pulling. Thought about farting around with pulling my 102, but I'll keep the cosmetics intact. Strange it could have gone from a puller to a loader though!
Dave Ross,
The recoil start block and flywheel for the Original is no different than the electric start version. The coil (magneto) and condenser mounts on the rear bearing plate, and the "donut" magnet slides over the crankshaft. All of this fits under the flywheel. The plug wire and the wire to the points go thru a slot in the bearing plate and out the side by the blower housing. IH also sold an "accessory kit" to convert the recoil start engines to electric start, that included everything needed for the conversion from the starter generator to the ignition switch, but it did not include an external coil. It used the original magneto coil and condenser located under the flywheel.
Richard P.
Don't believe everything you read on that data plate about starting the engine, most recoil start Cub Cadets are very finicky about how the choke and throttle are set when trying to start them. I have a 72 that does not want any choke or throttle movement to start it, and an Original that I ususlly have to take the plug out of to dry it out 3 or 4 times before it decides to start. I believe I have even heard it laugh or chuckle a time or two as I pull on the rope. After all these years, the mag is not quite as hot as it once was, and makes starting a little harder than when new.
The recoil start block and flywheel for the Original is no different than the electric start version. The coil (magneto) and condenser mounts on the rear bearing plate, and the "donut" magnet slides over the crankshaft. All of this fits under the flywheel. The plug wire and the wire to the points go thru a slot in the bearing plate and out the side by the blower housing. IH also sold an "accessory kit" to convert the recoil start engines to electric start, that included everything needed for the conversion from the starter generator to the ignition switch, but it did not include an external coil. It used the original magneto coil and condenser located under the flywheel.
Richard P.
Don't believe everything you read on that data plate about starting the engine, most recoil start Cub Cadets are very finicky about how the choke and throttle are set when trying to start them. I have a 72 that does not want any choke or throttle movement to start it, and an Original that I ususlly have to take the plug out of to dry it out 3 or 4 times before it decides to start. I believe I have even heard it laugh or chuckle a time or two as I pull on the rope. After all these years, the mag is not quite as hot as it once was, and makes starting a little harder than when new.
Richard p ..
,,, Man sounds like you got a deal there and I hope you do finish it back to what it was when new. I have been real bust here hauling ground and top soil for a friend with the dump trailer. I will be leaving today for 4 days Camping with the 5th wheel and then next week finish the 129 loader. I have told all my friends that i won`t be answering the phone
next week so don`t call lol.today at 430 i will be hauling home another tractor and getting it running for a friend. he has been bugging me to sell a Cub and well i don`t know what Cub to sell him lol. so an old Sears with plow, deck and blower will be his first tractor.there is a 122 close to here I found but i`ll get that for ME lol. and guys I found a 1512 D for me so life is GOOD.Have a great day. later Don T
next week so don`t call lol.today at 430 i will be hauling home another tractor and getting it running for a friend. he has been bugging me to sell a Cub and well i don`t know what Cub to sell him lol. so an old Sears with plow, deck and blower will be his first tractor.there is a 122 close to here I found but i`ll get that for ME lol. and guys I found a 1512 D for me so life is GOOD.Have a great day. later Don T
kide
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- Gerry Ide
Paul:
What brand is the magneto on the K161's? I've had some experience with both the 12 volt Wico and 6 Volt Phelon mags from the same era and there are a couple of tricks that help in getting that HOT spark at the right time..
Kraig:
I can't believe I found it, let alone "cut and pasted" that quick..
What brand is the magneto on the K161's? I've had some experience with both the 12 volt Wico and 6 Volt Phelon mags from the same era and there are a couple of tricks that help in getting that HOT spark at the right time..
Kraig:
I can't believe I found it, let alone "cut and pasted" that quick..
Kendell, had I been at my work PC instead of home on one of my laptops I would have beaten you to the post. I had to dig out Hanks book to get the kind code, I have that info at my fingertips on my work PC.
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Kendell-
Its not a mag like the old Wisconsin engines had; it's more like a B&S mag, except I think it's under the flywheel. I've never had one myself, but I think that's the way they are from the pictures I've seen.
Its not a mag like the old Wisconsin engines had; it's more like a B&S mag, except I think it's under the flywheel. I've never had one myself, but I think that's the way they are from the pictures I've seen.
kide
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Matt:
Yup, coil(s)- (they have lighting also) and points are on a separate backing plate under the flywheel which has internal magnets . Wicos have slotted mounting screws in the plate so you can adjust timing separately from point gap. The trick is getting the coil positioned so that the magnet has generated the highest possible voltage just as the points are opening. I spent bunches of time with a drill motor rotating the engine, watching an o-scope and adjusting the position of the backing plate. Using a test plug like Briggs sells, I was able to pull close to 1/2 inch fat blue sparks (and this was on a 45 year old magneto...)Cushmans are notorious for fouling plugs, I'd go a year without ever checking.. Phelons have tricks of their own...
Kraig:
I had "other" sources that made it easier to cut and paste...
Yup, coil(s)- (they have lighting also) and points are on a separate backing plate under the flywheel which has internal magnets . Wicos have slotted mounting screws in the plate so you can adjust timing separately from point gap. The trick is getting the coil positioned so that the magnet has generated the highest possible voltage just as the points are opening. I spent bunches of time with a drill motor rotating the engine, watching an o-scope and adjusting the position of the backing plate. Using a test plug like Briggs sells, I was able to pull close to 1/2 inch fat blue sparks (and this was on a 45 year old magneto...)Cushmans are notorious for fouling plugs, I'd go a year without ever checking.. Phelons have tricks of their own...
Kraig:
I had "other" sources that made it easier to cut and paste...
Kendell, I really need to put that "other source" on one of the laptops, I have it on the tower PC at home but then I'd have to set at the desk...
