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Archive through November 30, 2018
- Thread starter klorenz
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
mgwin
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Thought I might tinker with my cubs today, but got rained out again as usual.
hydroharry
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- Harry Bursell
Hey Marty - what's up? There a leak in your shop?
lkortkamp
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- Larry
HH and Kraig. Yes, I have the arm on it!! I did recall that being behind the pulley enough to not be able to get to it afterwards. Thanks for thinking of me.
It's pouring rain, not sure if I will get the motor placed today?? I might at least slip it in the chassis and put the tarp back over it.
It's pouring rain, not sure if I will get the motor placed today?? I might at least slip it in the chassis and put the tarp back over it.
balbrecht
Well-known member
Kraig M,
Been gone for work all week. About the chains on the 127 with the snow thrower. Dad always ran a chain on one tire on the 127 back home. He has the wider front tires and there really was no turning it on backtop without the chain. I have them so I put them on, maybe just out of habit.
Been gone for work all week. About the chains on the 127 with the snow thrower. Dad always ran a chain on one tire on the 127 back home. He has the wider front tires and there really was no turning it on backtop without the chain. I have them so I put them on, maybe just out of habit.
wstrempfer
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- William Strempfer
Kirk,
I agree. I'm going to run with the tire/rim combo we have is original until shown otherwise. It sure looks like it to me. I'm glad I asked. Before that, they were going in the trash! Thanks for setting me straight! Have a great day!
Billy
I agree. I'm going to run with the tire/rim combo we have is original until shown otherwise. It sure looks like it to me. I'm glad I asked. Before that, they were going in the trash! Thanks for setting me straight! Have a great day!
Billy
lkortkamp
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- Larry
Well, as of last night:
It's nearly back together. Still a few things to hook up, but I should be able to get back at it next weekend if the weather holds out and get it running. I did watch a video for setting the governor, and also reset the points.
I still need to get the electric lift parts put on it.
I could make a spot for it in the garage, but at this point I don't see a need. Once running, I'll park it under the nose of my race trailer for "dry" storage.
It's nearly back together. Still a few things to hook up, but I should be able to get back at it next weekend if the weather holds out and get it running. I did watch a video for setting the governor, and also reset the points.
I still need to get the electric lift parts put on it.
I could make a spot for it in the garage, but at this point I don't see a need. Once running, I'll park it under the nose of my race trailer for "dry" storage.
Larry K.
Brian A., makes sense, thanks.
Now about that larger off topic tractor, how about a photo or two on Friday?
Hi all it's been a while since I've posted. I have a question. Over the weekend I was running my 102 when I started it she turned slowly. I figured a low battery but after running it a while I shut it down and tried to restart it and nothing. Jump box and still nothing. I am thinking a bad solenoid but was wondering if anyone else had any ideas. I did put a test light on the s/g and turned the switch and no juice.
Matt, did you check the safety switch on the brake/clutch? There should be a small spring clip on the brake/clutch release rod switch. It's very possible that the spring clip broke. Could also be a broken wire to/from the safety switch itself. The spring clip "thingy" is #18 in this drawing:
Kraig,
I will check that again but it has been jumped out for years. I am not Mr Safety. I checked the rest of the wires and they all seem to be in good condition. The slow start on a fully charged battery makes me thing solenoid but I am wondering about the s/g. can the s/g be jumped hot to test it?
I will check that again but it has been jumped out for years. I am not Mr Safety. I checked the rest of the wires and they all seem to be in good condition. The slow start on a fully charged battery makes me thing solenoid but I am wondering about the s/g. can the s/g be jumped hot to test it?
Matt D,
It could be your solenoid but it more likely is a bad wire connection or a bad starter/ignition switch. Refer to the "Wire Diagrams" link via the link on the top home page. I like Roland's Fancy Color diagrams the best.
I'd start with a look at the ignition switch first. Often the terminals on the switch rust and corrode over years of service. Pull the 3-spade wire terminal off the back of the switch. Check the three spades on the switch to see if they are rusted and/or loose. I've had one or more of those spade terminals actually pull off by just pulling the connector off due to rust/corrosion which would be the key indicator to your no starter problem and switch needs replaced. If the terminals are tight, clean the terminals and reinstall the connector and try to start.
If no go, next check the solenoid by connecting a jumper wire to small bolt terminal with an orange/black striped wire running to it from the starter/ignition switch. Then momentarily contact the other end of the jumper to the battery positive terminal (Note, this will cause some small sparks). If the solenoid clicks and the S/G spins over, then your solenoid is okay. If it just clicks with no go, then remove and clean the larger primary terminals and red cables on each side of the solenoid. Reinstall and try again. If still no go, then your solenoid is possibly bad. I say possibly bad because you could have a poor ground.
Check the ground wire from the battery to the frame. Clean the ground wire terminal where it attaches to the frame as well as local area where it attaches to the frame to remove any dirt/rust. Also carefully inspect each terminal end of your battery cables for corrosion in the wire itself. If this is the case you will see green/white powdery stuff where the terminal is attached. Often the insulation is frayed or bubbling up and you not getting good continuity through your cable due to the corrosion.
Try to start again. If no go, then try a different solenoid. If you have a continuity tester light, you can hold the probe end to the terminal with the red cable the runs to the S/G and if it lights up when you hit the starter switch, that would indicate that solenoid is working.
Still no go, then focus on the S/G. Clean and check the wire connection at the armature terminal.
It could be your solenoid but it more likely is a bad wire connection or a bad starter/ignition switch. Refer to the "Wire Diagrams" link via the link on the top home page. I like Roland's Fancy Color diagrams the best.
I'd start with a look at the ignition switch first. Often the terminals on the switch rust and corrode over years of service. Pull the 3-spade wire terminal off the back of the switch. Check the three spades on the switch to see if they are rusted and/or loose. I've had one or more of those spade terminals actually pull off by just pulling the connector off due to rust/corrosion which would be the key indicator to your no starter problem and switch needs replaced. If the terminals are tight, clean the terminals and reinstall the connector and try to start.
If no go, next check the solenoid by connecting a jumper wire to small bolt terminal with an orange/black striped wire running to it from the starter/ignition switch. Then momentarily contact the other end of the jumper to the battery positive terminal (Note, this will cause some small sparks). If the solenoid clicks and the S/G spins over, then your solenoid is okay. If it just clicks with no go, then remove and clean the larger primary terminals and red cables on each side of the solenoid. Reinstall and try again. If still no go, then your solenoid is possibly bad. I say possibly bad because you could have a poor ground.
Check the ground wire from the battery to the frame. Clean the ground wire terminal where it attaches to the frame as well as local area where it attaches to the frame to remove any dirt/rust. Also carefully inspect each terminal end of your battery cables for corrosion in the wire itself. If this is the case you will see green/white powdery stuff where the terminal is attached. Often the insulation is frayed or bubbling up and you not getting good continuity through your cable due to the corrosion.
Try to start again. If no go, then try a different solenoid. If you have a continuity tester light, you can hold the probe end to the terminal with the red cable the runs to the S/G and if it lights up when you hit the starter switch, that would indicate that solenoid is working.
Still no go, then focus on the S/G. Clean and check the wire connection at the armature terminal.
hydroharry
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- Harry Bursell
Matt D - the write up by Ron S provides great info for you to use. Since you asked you can try your jump pack direst to the S/G and a good ground location. Make sure you also turn your key on. If it starts and runs then you know the problem is either the Solenoid or switch or wiring prior to the S/G.
hydroharry
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- Harry Bursell
What the hay? Did I break this thing last nite?
Hydro, yes, yes you did.
hydroharry
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- Harry Bursell
Kraig - thanks for the tongue'r. Pretty slick.
Hey Frank - you ole Mainer - I suppose I should'a said hook the positive to the S/G terminal that has the big RED wire on it. I think this connection point is stamped "A" on the S/G.
Hey Frank - you ole Mainer - I suppose I should'a said hook the positive to the S/G terminal that has the big RED wire on it. I think this connection point is stamped "A" on the S/G.
mgwin
Well-known member
Harry,
No leaks.
Was going to take the 100 outside and see if it would crank.
No leaks.
Was going to take the 100 outside and see if it would crank.
hydroharry
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- Harry Bursell
Hey Marty - ever once in a while you gotta get yourself a few whiffs of those Kohler fumes. I recommend seat time but it can be done in the shop as long as you're careful and got good ventilation.
