Archive through November 30, 2011

[eburton]

Thanks Rick,
Agree on the compression fittings. I have 4 original engines and all are missing the copper line. One has a rubber hose installed by PO. Not good.

 

[kkingsley]

New user, so not sure if I am posting correctly, but here goes.
Doing some maintenance on my Model 1200; replacing clutch parts and motors mounts. (Apparently motor mount degradation caused clutch plate cracking) Anyway, the current question is: I found a screw behind govenor arm backed out about 0.5 inch. I think from FAQ review that this is the 'Stop Pin' for governor (with copper washer). It probably just backed out due to vibration? Engine was running fine when I started the project. Can I just screw it back in or will I break something.

 

[rrschmitt]

Kevin K,

The retaining screw is just is there to keep the governer from coming off the stub shaft in your engine it would ever backfire and spin backwards. Under normal engine rotation, the gear teeth are angled to force the governer up against the thrust washer and keep it on the stub shaft. Even with the retainer screw backed out a 1/2", it would still serve that function but would about be ready to fall out itself. Just turn it back in by hand and then tighten with a screwdriver. Unless you run into resistance while turning in by hand, there should be no problems to worry about.

 

[ljones]

Do the snow blade subframes from the 70 and 100 use the mule drive as the front bracket? Will one of these work with the mule drive on my 122?

 

[jschrage]

Paul, the measurement on the set screw id much appreciated. Thanks

 

[thoffman]

Lucas, the subframe for a snow/dirt plow is one piece for the plow only. The mule drive is for the mower deck and used for the rear rototiller. Two different animals.

 

[ljones]

Tom looking at some pictures it looks as if the snow blade subframe attaches the the mule drive on the 100/70

 

[thoffman]

Lucas,
Looking at the manuals there is a way to attach it to the mule drive "IF" you do not have the extentions. My sumframe is one piece. Be sure to check out Charlies manual section on the home page.

 

[jbaker]

Tom must of broke this thing, heres a jump start,,

Tom weren,t you making a 1600? hows that going

 

[thoffman]

Jeff it's sitting in the shed. It's been my primary snow machine for the last few years. Trying a 1000 with a creeper this year.

 

[digger]

The Big Brown truck guy showed up today in a rented U-Haul semi, LOL
Seems 10 sets of these wouldn't fit in his truck.

I had to have him wait to relabel 5 sets to take back out.

 

[ljones]

Tom, thanks that clears things up.

 

[jbaker]

theres a whole-lotta rubber there Charlie.

Those would look great on a IH 149 Cub Cadet

 

[dfrisk]

CHARLIE - The first Brown truck I drove was a F700 Ford w/22 ft dry box. They do that a lot this time of year when they run out of trucks. I've even seen them pulling enclosed tandem axle trailers pulled behind their little brown trucks!

BTW nice tires! Are the last five pair your's?

 

[sbauer]

Has anyone changed the front motor seal on a 982? I beleive that is were my leak is coming from and will be changing it out tomorrow. Any pics or helpful hints are appreciated.

I also have a loose oil fill tube at the block. Any ideas on how to tighten or seal.

 

[pleffelman]

Have a 1450 and switching hyd. lift arm for valve which was held by a rollpin and kept breaking roll pins, going to later style which has slot cut in arm & bolt pinches halves against shaft tight, does this solve my problem or will the arm work loose over time, any suggestions would be great,would like to solve this one time fix.

 

[jcoughlin]

Installed a new head gasket on my 127 last Sunday and torqued the bolts to 420 in.lb.(35 ft.lb.)as stated in my manual.Did a search on retorqueing and found everyone calling for between 25-30 ft.lb. I have only run the tractor about 1 minute with the new gasket. Should I start over and torque to 30,run it 20-30 minutes and try to retorque to 30 if it loosens that much,or retorque to 35 per my manual?

Matt, great write up on head gasket replacement. Wish I had looked first but it was getting late and 50* days this time of year are a bonus.

 

[mhomrighausen]

JIm C. I never have quite understood the need to re-torque in the first place. Years back I asked some former employees of Clinton Engines about the re-torque a head/gasket bolt thing. Basically I asked if they did that at the factory and the answer always came back the same. "Torque once and be done with it. All bolts will stretch upon initial usage and all steel wears out over time. You don't see the automobile industry or ag industry saying to the customer, "Oh BTW... Come back after driving the car two hundred miles so we can have the mechanic re-torque the head bolts." Or the implement salesperson, " Bring that Magnum into the shop after running it ten hours for a re-torque of the head bolts.""

It is a quite chilly and rainy morning right now. We're supposed to have it turn to snow later on. I'm off to work in a little while. Everyone have a safe and wonderful day.

 

[dfrisk]

MARLIN - Interestng topic! I think the re-torquing of head gaskets is because of the gaskets compressing as they first warm up when the engine runs. The OEM Kohler gaskets have a layer of compressable material sandwiched between two perforated steel or alum. sheets and that compressable material takes a "Set" when it's compressed and heated. I've always been able to get about another half turn on the bolts around the exhuast port on Kohlers where they tend to blow out when I re-torque them. On my old K241 I had to re-torque the head twice in the 1400 hours I put on it after the initial re-torque. When starting the engine cold it would whistle at me for a few seconds then the heat would expand things and the gasket would seal properly. I'd be able to turn the bolts/nuts around the exh. port a half to 3/4 turn until the thing would start whistling again in 500 hours. I never blew the gasket.And the head & block seem to be flat, but the head was really warped, probably close to 1/8th inch out of flat when I resurfaced it before the last rebuild.

I agree that the OEM's never require a re-torquing, but I think they may torque the head a bit tighter to make up for the compressing of the gasket.

JIM C. - Every Kohler manual I've seen says 25-30 ft/#. The diecast alum heads on Kohlers are actually pretty flimsey, there's no depth to it to make it rigid. I almost think I'd run the engine longer, 20-30 minutes and get it hot and check & re-torque to the 30#/ft called for in the manuals. When the gasket compresses and takes a set you might find the bolts are right at the 30#/ft spec.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Steve B2., Does your 982 have the Onan engine? If so, does it have an oil filter? If so, some of the Onan engines with the oil filter can develop a leak between the block and the bolted on cast part where the oil filter screws onto. The Onan CCKB in my Allis Chalmers 620 developed a leak in this location. I thought it was leaking at the crank because the flywheel would blow the oil all over the block. I ended up replacing the seal at the flywheel end of the crank as well just in case. The seal on the flywheel end of the crank isn't too hard to replace, at least on the Onan CCKB model. I'm not sure what model Onan is in the 982... Not sure how one would tighten up the dip stick tube.

Charlie, nice tires!!