Bobby,
Yepper your on the right track.
Yepper your on the right track.
Archive through November 28, 2006
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rchristensen
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- Richard Christensen
When I bought the new 16 hp Kohler replacement engine in 2001 it came with the carbon spark plug wire. I don't think they can sell them new any other way. It is still on the 1650 and runs good. I have the kirk point saver on it and only run autolite 216 sparkplugs. I mow all summer long in temperatures above 100 degrees and have had no problems.
One thing I like about the carbon spark plug wire is I can check the rpm's with my electronic tack. If I try and use the tack on any cub with a solid wire the needle fluctuates so much you cannot get a good reading. Whenever I want to tune up any of my other cubs I use this carbon spark plug wire, so it gets pulled and re-installed quite a bit.
I would probably put carbon wires on all of my cubs if I knew where to get ones as good as the one that came on this engine from the factory.
One thing I like about the carbon spark plug wire is I can check the rpm's with my electronic tack. If I try and use the tack on any cub with a solid wire the needle fluctuates so much you cannot get a good reading. Whenever I want to tune up any of my other cubs I use this carbon spark plug wire, so it gets pulled and re-installed quite a bit.
I would probably put carbon wires on all of my cubs if I knew where to get ones as good as the one that came on this engine from the factory.
Morning everyone. Long time no see. I've been away for a while but I hope to see you all at the next plow day If I get this 302 swap done on my truck in time. To keep it on topic Is it common for the hood to hit the steering wheel on a 70/100? It is the original wheel, the flat one not the raised one.
I have an old 1450 with Hydualic Lift, It is the daul valve version on account there is connections on the front for accessories. The problem is the valve plunger looks like it is moving in and out when I move the handle, but nothing happens at the cylinder. No movement, nothing. I am not sure if this has anything to do with it, but I did check the fluid level in the rear and it is up to the hole. I have not use the lift for several years so I don't really know when or why it stoped working. I have just decided to add a plow. Can anyone suggest steps to repair? I am hoping to get this fixed before the snow flies.
Matthew, good to see you posting again! That does happen with the 70/100 and the Original too. Loosen the bolts that hold the cast grill to the frame and make sure the grill is all the way forward then tighten them back up. If that does not move it forward enough loosen them again and remove the rear bolts and place washers between the grill and the frame this will angle the grill slightly forward and should give you a bit more space for clearing the steering wheel.
Ok,,,,,,, I'm not REALLY wanting to beat this subject into the ground, but please allow me to summarize some of the additional information that has come to light regarding the sparkplug & sparkplug wire issue...
Craig E.,
You pointed out - be it good or bad - these Cubbies will run with different plugs than what the manufacturer calls for.
Regarding heat ranges, it is a common practice to use a sparkplug with a step higher or lower heat range, depending on individual engine condition and operating conditions. In tired engines that may be passing a bit of oil, it may perform better with a higher heat range or hotter plug to keep the oil burnt off. Whereas, the use of a lower heat range or colder plug due an increase in compression (possibly due to carbon buildup inside the combustion chamber) or elevated operating temperatures is sometimes advantageous.
Bruce N.,
Thank you for the excellent explanation on how different ignition systems call for various sparkplug gaps, how the gap grows with use and the importance of using the correct depth plug due to their 'extended nose or thread length' differences. Note: Thread depth and nose length comparison information is obtainable from the various sparkplug manufacturers/suppliers.
Richard C.,
You pointed out that when you use a solid core sparkplug wire AND a NON-resistor Autolite 216 sparkplug, it DOES INTERFERE with the operation of your electronic tach (causing needle bounce). However, when you use a carbon core wire (RFI-resistant) your tach doesn't experience needle bounce. You also indicated that you also run a "Point Saver" ignition system, I don't know if the "Point Saver" system is an electronic device or not thus be effected or not by the use of a solid core wire. Never-the-less that is very interesting information. I wonder if you'd still have tach issues IF you were to install the solid core wire and a RESISTOR-TYPE PLUG (such as a Champion RH10C) instead of the NON-RESISTOR Autolite 216?
Richard C. & Kendall I.,
You both mentioned that you have run carbon core wires for MANY years without any performance problems -- I don't doubt that for a moment. However, not all things last the same for all people. In addition, I suggest that many of us will attest that these Cubbies will STILL RUN when in various states of tune.
It's been my experience with my Cubbie, the level of performance usually drops off over time, not abruptly; so I likely will not readily notice a small or gradual loss of performance. However, once I perform a tuneup or restore the points or sparkplug or even change out 2 month old fuel for fresh fuel, I believe I can really notice the difference in performance. This shouldn't be looked at as increase in performance - rather a 'restoration' of performance. Only if I start to 'hot rod' the components would I look for any improvement or increase in performance over stock.
Richard C. & Kendall I.,
I'd be REAL curious to know what the Ohm reading of your 'many years old' carbon core wires is? If your wires have a few hundred Ohms of resistance, your performance may benefit by the installation of a new wire.
Myron B.,
Thank you for reminding us that their are "differences in information" such as with the varying sparkplug charts.
Just for the record, when I went through my, 'Kohler Engines Owners Manual, Operating and Maintenance Instructions Manual' (which pertains to the K301 engine & what came in my 129), I could NOT locate any mention of inspection or replacing of the sparkplug wire in THAT manual.
In addition, in THAT manual on page 9, it did say to use a RESISTOR-TYPE sparkplug: "Every 100 hours of operation, remove the sparkplug, check its condition, and reset the gap, or replace with a new plug...if worn or reuse is questionable. Use a Champion type RH10 (or equivalent) spark plug."
Craig E.,
You indicated that you have all the combination of parts to do a side-by-side comparison. Please bring your findings back to this group....
Tedd I.,
I am also very interested in to hear how your Captain Kirk Bosch DUAL COIL upgrade goes.... I hope you also come back and share your findings with everyone here!
Ryan W
Craig E.,
You pointed out - be it good or bad - these Cubbies will run with different plugs than what the manufacturer calls for.
Regarding heat ranges, it is a common practice to use a sparkplug with a step higher or lower heat range, depending on individual engine condition and operating conditions. In tired engines that may be passing a bit of oil, it may perform better with a higher heat range or hotter plug to keep the oil burnt off. Whereas, the use of a lower heat range or colder plug due an increase in compression (possibly due to carbon buildup inside the combustion chamber) or elevated operating temperatures is sometimes advantageous.
Bruce N.,
Thank you for the excellent explanation on how different ignition systems call for various sparkplug gaps, how the gap grows with use and the importance of using the correct depth plug due to their 'extended nose or thread length' differences. Note: Thread depth and nose length comparison information is obtainable from the various sparkplug manufacturers/suppliers.
Richard C.,
You pointed out that when you use a solid core sparkplug wire AND a NON-resistor Autolite 216 sparkplug, it DOES INTERFERE with the operation of your electronic tach (causing needle bounce). However, when you use a carbon core wire (RFI-resistant) your tach doesn't experience needle bounce. You also indicated that you also run a "Point Saver" ignition system, I don't know if the "Point Saver" system is an electronic device or not thus be effected or not by the use of a solid core wire. Never-the-less that is very interesting information. I wonder if you'd still have tach issues IF you were to install the solid core wire and a RESISTOR-TYPE PLUG (such as a Champion RH10C) instead of the NON-RESISTOR Autolite 216?
Richard C. & Kendall I.,
You both mentioned that you have run carbon core wires for MANY years without any performance problems -- I don't doubt that for a moment. However, not all things last the same for all people. In addition, I suggest that many of us will attest that these Cubbies will STILL RUN when in various states of tune.
It's been my experience with my Cubbie, the level of performance usually drops off over time, not abruptly; so I likely will not readily notice a small or gradual loss of performance. However, once I perform a tuneup or restore the points or sparkplug or even change out 2 month old fuel for fresh fuel, I believe I can really notice the difference in performance. This shouldn't be looked at as increase in performance - rather a 'restoration' of performance. Only if I start to 'hot rod' the components would I look for any improvement or increase in performance over stock.
Richard C. & Kendall I.,
I'd be REAL curious to know what the Ohm reading of your 'many years old' carbon core wires is? If your wires have a few hundred Ohms of resistance, your performance may benefit by the installation of a new wire.
Myron B.,
Thank you for reminding us that their are "differences in information" such as with the varying sparkplug charts.
Just for the record, when I went through my, 'Kohler Engines Owners Manual, Operating and Maintenance Instructions Manual' (which pertains to the K301 engine & what came in my 129), I could NOT locate any mention of inspection or replacing of the sparkplug wire in THAT manual.
In addition, in THAT manual on page 9, it did say to use a RESISTOR-TYPE sparkplug: "Every 100 hours of operation, remove the sparkplug, check its condition, and reset the gap, or replace with a new plug...if worn or reuse is questionable. Use a Champion type RH10 (or equivalent) spark plug."
Craig E.,
You indicated that you have all the combination of parts to do a side-by-side comparison. Please bring your findings back to this group....
Tedd I.,
I am also very interested in to hear how your Captain Kirk Bosch DUAL COIL upgrade goes.... I hope you also come back and share your findings with everyone here!
Ryan W
bmcmeen
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- Bryan D. McMeen, Keeper of the Holy Hy-Tran
Matt S. -
Welcome back!
Yep, it's quite common. Remove the rear grille mounting bolts and loosen the front ones. Stick a washer between the grille casting and the frame and put the rear bolts back in. Tighten everything up and you should have bought just enough clearance.
Welcome back!
Yep, it's quite common. Remove the rear grille mounting bolts and loosen the front ones. Stick a washer between the grille casting and the frame and put the rear bolts back in. Tighten everything up and you should have bought just enough clearance.
Wire core definitions:
1) Solid core is a single large (usually copper) wire like the stuff found in your house wiring. The proper gauge wire of this type will work in automotive applications but is not favored because it is relatively stiff and can break from vibration.
2) Twisted strand wire core, on the other hand, has a group of very small wires twisted together inside a sheath and is very flexible and tolerates vibration well. Twisted wire core is most often copper in automotive applications, although cheaper steel versions are sometimes used by the manufacturers. Of the two, copper is the better conductor of electricity. Occasionally this type can be found shielded for RFI containment/interference purposes.
Myron B
CCSupplyRoom
1) Solid core is a single large (usually copper) wire like the stuff found in your house wiring. The proper gauge wire of this type will work in automotive applications but is not favored because it is relatively stiff and can break from vibration.
2) Twisted strand wire core, on the other hand, has a group of very small wires twisted together inside a sheath and is very flexible and tolerates vibration well. Twisted wire core is most often copper in automotive applications, although cheaper steel versions are sometimes used by the manufacturers. Of the two, copper is the better conductor of electricity. Occasionally this type can be found shielded for RFI containment/interference purposes.
Myron B
CCSupplyRoom
Anthony: Thanks for sharing those great pictures everyone of them I have been alive for!! Besides seeing the Cubs change how about those clothes!! LOL
Had to go "visit" our local Cub Dealer this AM he had a 108 that somebody had restored really nice took me back memory lane that was the first model I bought new!!!
Very fortunate my dealer and I have become very good friends over the years and always willing to help. He asked what my next project was going to be I just smiled and said "RED".
Very good debate and info on plugs and wire, gentleman its not a high dollare item get what is right and the best for your Cub that is all "Pops" is going to say.
Pops
Had to go "visit" our local Cub Dealer this AM he had a 108 that somebody had restored really nice took me back memory lane that was the first model I bought new!!!
Very fortunate my dealer and I have become very good friends over the years and always willing to help. He asked what my next project was going to be I just smiled and said "RED".
Very good debate and info on plugs and wire, gentleman its not a high dollare item get what is right and the best for your Cub that is all "Pops" is going to say.
Pops
Myron,
What about carbon-core wires?
Although directed at automotive use, here is some good info regarding wire types and expected performance & life of sparkplug wires:
http://ca.autos.yahoo.com/maintain/answer.php?ignition_system2.html
Ryan W
What about carbon-core wires?
Although directed at automotive use, here is some good info regarding wire types and expected performance & life of sparkplug wires:
http://ca.autos.yahoo.com/maintain/answer.php?ignition_system2.html
Ryan W
Since Richard metioned getting his hands on some old wire.
I stopped by a 40+ year Cub Cadet dealer and I made the mistake of mentioning that I used Magnecor wires and boy did I get a lecture, LOL
He told me to follow him and I MIGHT just learn something!
So I did and we headed for the rafters. What a day that was too. It's amazing to find out that these old guys have probably forgot more than I'll ever know.
Here's what used on every Cub that he sold as he didn't much care for what was on them from the factory.
I stopped by a 40+ year Cub Cadet dealer and I made the mistake of mentioning that I used Magnecor wires and boy did I get a lecture, LOL
He told me to follow him and I MIGHT just learn something!
So I did and we headed for the rafters. What a day that was too. It's amazing to find out that these old guys have probably forgot more than I'll ever know.
Here's what used on every Cub that he sold as he didn't much care for what was on them from the factory.
All this talk about wire has me curious if zip cord would work. I might just try to find a way to put a fitting on a length of lamp cord and see if the dang thing will run on it.
Like my son's tee shirt says: "I saw it on TV. I'm pretty sure I can do it."
Like my son's tee shirt says: "I saw it on TV. I'm pretty sure I can do it."
Craig E.
I can tellya I know for a fact that an H Farmall will run on electric fence wire as long as you wrap it in tape first! LOL BTDT
I can tellya I know for a fact that an H Farmall will run on electric fence wire as long as you wrap it in tape first! LOL BTDT
I was doing some cleanup in the attic of the old garage and ran across this thing!
<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>
I can tellya I know for a fact that an H Farmall will run on electric fence wire as long as you wrap it in tape first! LOL BTDT<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>
All this talk about wire has me curious if zip cord would work. I might just try to find a way to put a fitting on a length of lamp cord and see if the dang thing will run on it.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
EASY NOW, GENTLEMEN! Be careful not to melt or cook electrical components or yourself!
I can tellya I know for a fact that an H Farmall will run on electric fence wire as long as you wrap it in tape first! LOL BTDT<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>
All this talk about wire has me curious if zip cord would work. I might just try to find a way to put a fitting on a length of lamp cord and see if the dang thing will run on it.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
EASY NOW, GENTLEMEN! Be careful not to melt or cook electrical components or yourself!
Ryan W.
When your out on the back 40 and you fry a wire, you grab what ever you can to get home! Especially when the tractor is hitched to a wagon with 300 bales of hay on it and the rain is on it's way.
When your out on the back 40 and you fry a wire, you grab what ever you can to get home! Especially when the tractor is hitched to a wagon with 300 bales of hay on it and the rain is on it's way.
Ryan D: Sorry I omitted the carbon stuff so:
1) Calling carbon core leads "wires" is like calling any cola or soda a "Coke". Carbon isn't wire.
2) My definitions was aimed at clarifing wires. I was seeing "solid core" being used when "twisted strand core" was really what should have been said. Normally, unless you are wiring your house, where wiries with solid cores are most often used, you only sometime can find an automotive application
3) It can be said that twisted strand wire isn't liquid, but solid ...NO.
Myron B
1) Calling carbon core leads "wires" is like calling any cola or soda a "Coke". Carbon isn't wire.
2) My definitions was aimed at clarifing wires. I was seeing "solid core" being used when "twisted strand core" was really what should have been said. Normally, unless you are wiring your house, where wiries with solid cores are most often used, you only sometime can find an automotive application
3) It can be said that twisted strand wire isn't liquid, but solid ...NO.
Myron B
