Archive through November 27, 2004

[kmorrow]

Ah, Melvin C., another Tennessee Cubber!

You can get ag tires at TSC or at Gateway Tire, if you have one in your area. I bought my last set of 10.50 Carlisle Super Lugs at TSC, but have since found out that I could have gotten them cheaper, and mounted to boot, at the local Gateway store. I have also seen some good prices online, but by the time you pay shipping it'd probably be pretty much a wash.

FWIW, I've torn up a whole lot less grass after switching to ags. Back when we lived at our other house with a much larger lawn, I was mowing with either a 106 or a 128. I tend to back up on corners rather than loop around, and when doing the forward-backward-forward shift routine on those gear drives at WOT, I would tend to "burn" little patches of grass with the rear wheels during the direction change if the grass was even slightly wet or if the ground was at all inclined. Ag tires eliminated that scuffing, and improved the looks of both the tractors and the lawn in the process.

 

[roundy fendered cubs rule!]

Tyler,
Here's a padded seat. I think it was an option as well, but "correct".

 

[kweaver]

tryin to catch up - you guys have 3 pages arch'd on me ... ran across this

Tyler T -
"154 lowboy-biggest overrated piece of junk international made-geared w/ cub cadet gears"

Actually Cub Cadets were made from Cub Tractor "gears" not vice versa. If you don't want it anymore I've got a big garage that is over FULL but I can make room !

off to the eye doc ...

 

[thoffman]

Dave,
"The guy in the black suit", I know I'm color blind but ain't that a black and white image?

 

[kmcconaughey]

Zach, how's this one?

 

[kmcconaughey]

This goes with the 102 schematic.

 

[mbounds]

Kraig: Start must be B + I + S. If there is no I in start then you'll crank forever but with no ignition (I) it won't start.
Myron B

 

[kmcconaughey]

Myron, good point. I just posted what was in the manual. )

 

[dkamp]

Yep- it's B+I+S- I ran into that a few weeks ago- manual is wrong...

Interesting thing, though... there's actually an aftermarket switch made that way, and it No Worky!!! Loader-Mutt's control pedestal came from a 149 that the PO parted out... after having an irrepairable engine failure... apparently the OEM switch died, and they still couldn't get it to start after replacing the switch, so they yanked the engine, and parked the chassis in the weeds. I guess the aftermarket manufacturer put too much faith in the wiring diagram!

-they made the switch just the way the table indicated. Not surprising, as it was a common configuration for machines that used a ballast-resistor in the ignition coil's primary circuit. In those machines, a terminal on the starter solenoid (marked IGN) connected to the coil (on the far side of the ballast resistor), so that when you put the key in START position, the ballast resistor would be bypassed, you'd have starting ignition, and as soon as you let go, the switch would feed through the resistor.

(Message edited by dkamp on November 30, 2004)

 

[kmcconaughey]

Here's a corrected image for the start switch. A few seconds with MS Paint fixed it right up.

 

[tturner]

Ken,
I knew that the cub cadet gears came out of the cubs but I guess that I just wasn't thinking when I posted. Tyler

 

[dkamp]

When used in Cub Cadet, the gears are pretty darned tough. In F-cubs, LoBoys, etc., I think they're pretty dependable too- the four cylinder is smoother, which lowers the service-factor of the gears (the amount of repetetive shock they're subjected to). Also- someone fill me in on this- don't the F-cubs and LoBoys have additional gear reduction in the axle outer housings?

 

[mmasheris]

Charlie I saw a picture of the Chapter34 map somewhere but can't find it.Do you know where it was?

 

[sblunier]

F-Cub / Lo-Boy top shaft turns at engine rpm....400-1850rpm......much lower torque factor when you consider that the F-Cub is 9-12hp and the Lo-Boy is 15-18hp.

 

[bmcmeen]

Mike M. -

Don't forget about supporting the local folks at chapter #2

 

[dfrisk]

STEVE - And You multiply the torque of a 12 HP K301 by seven, the input reduction ratio, and the hammering the single cyl. Kohler gives that top shaft I think it just shows how totally over-built the original Cub was.

 

[gzimmers]

Could someone please send me a picture or some measurements for the rear weight bracket ("U" shaped) that fits later Cubs like the 782? I want to make one for my 1512D.

Thanks,
Gary

 

[dkamp]

Well, Tom- it MAY be a BLUE suit, or a RED suit, or even a BROWN suit, but as you said, it's a B&W photo. There's a guy in a GREY suit (but it could be gold, or yellow, or light green right next to it...

Actually, the guy I'm referring to COULD be Tommy Lee Jones (kinda looks like him), but I don't see Will Smith anywhere...

Steve- was your reference to the F-cub top shaft speed in response to my question about the axleshaft outer housings? The F-cub and LoBoy's C-60 engine speed is about half what the K-series engine runs at... the Cub Cadet's wheel diameter is quite a bit smaller... on the Low-Boy, there's offset-housings to keep the tractor's height low, while running large tires... is there a reduction in that housing, or is it a 1:1 drive from the differential to the wheel hubs?

 

[pbell]

Dave K
The Cub Cadet has a 7-1 gear reduction on the front of the transmission (not sure about the Original ratio), the Farmall Cub, International Cub Lo-Boy (off set) and the numbered Lo-Boys (154,185,184)have the gear reduction, 5.83-1 (12 tooth axle, 70 tooth bull gear) in the drop boxes or off-set housings as you called them. Transmission gear ratio's are the same for CC and Cub/Lo-Boy, depending on model and or year.

(Message edited by pbell on November 30, 2004)

(Message edited by pbell on November 30, 2004)