Archive through November 27, 2004

[thoffman]

Charlie,
You would have to have a different cyclinder for one or the other, no? They would be working at the same time.

Across the street they were talking about tire chain hook up. Jack or not to jack up. I say jack it. The tire flatens out without jacking. What has worked for me in the past is jack it up, take out all the air walk the chians over the top, bring 'em around, get 'em a tight as hell, air 'em back up to about 2-3 #'s over suggested pressure, and let it snow!

 

[digger]

Tom H,
I knew you would jump on that and your asnwer is in the garage!!!!

 

[rroth]

Howdy to that Charlie,,,

Thanks and much respect for the info and pics,,,

Is there any group or person to speak with regarding the hydraulics... I amd interested in the rear set up as I mentioned but also a seperate bucket rig for the front end... Anyone in that business???

Also any leads on AG Tires and wheels???

Thanks in advance from sunny California,,,

Ray Roth

 

[mcalvert]

Can someone list both the original array of available tires that came on IH Cub Cadet 122's in 1966 and 1967 AND which tires are best for use when mowing a lawn that includes inclined banks as well as flat areas?

My B-in-Law took his first CC122 mowing class over the weekend and the tires allowed the tractor to slide and he lost traction a lot of the time whenever he turned up hill or down hill.

The tires that are on his tractor look like they were made for street use -- may have been intended for use as small trailer tires. They have conservative tread patterns (like a car tire from the 60's)and are fairly narrow.

"My" tractor (also a 122) has front tires that look like "tundra tires" for a Piper Cub (the flying Cub) with a tread pattern of six or eight parallel grooves that run around the tire, and rear tires that are checkered but relatively smooth. Both front and rear tires are almost twice as wide as the tires on my B-in-Law's 122) I think (I'm not there to check them) these tires are Goodyear Turf Tires. I like my tires and I am thinking he needs to go to the same or similar tires to get a little better traction and control.

I looked at Northern Tool & Supply and they had many tires that looked like they might fit okay, but I would like to know what I need to look for in a turf tire, i.e., which sizes, manufacturers, and sources are the best. Also, what is a "ball park" price I should expect to pay for these tires? I can't imagine that any mail ordered tire is going to compete with a local source, so please identify which chain stores are likely to be a best source for these tires. I also need the source to dismount the old tires and mount the new ones.

Also, while I understand these tires are tubless, is it a good idea to install tubes when you mount the new tires?

Thanks for the help,

MDC in TN

 

[dkamp]

Hey Ray- if you want Hydraulics... that's not too hard to do... here's what I did...

It's a Johnson Workhorse loader, mounted to a mixture of leftover WF parts. I made my own pump-drive arrangement, with a dual-output pump to operate full-hydraulic-steering as well as the loader. Probably add a Category 0 system, and a belly-grader blade at some later date.

 

[tcbusch]

Ray Roth,
Are you looking to put a hydraulic pump and valves on your tractor and you're wondering what to use?
Are you looking for original equipment any setup?
Are you looking for a pre-built bucket? Did you want a hydraulic lift and dump?

Just curious, I might have some suggestions if I get more details.

Do a search on "One armed bandit"

(Message edited by tcbusch on November 28, 2004)

 

[kdunham]

Dave K.-

Charlie-Thanks for giving Ray a hand,he'll be ordering the manuals pronto,until then there is much he'll be wanting to know and see. I talked to him at some length today,super nice guy. If he only knew how bad the Cub fetish is in the Midwest....

 

[kbranch]

I would like to know if there are any videos of Cub Cadets plowing, pulling, or just doing whatever on the internet to be downloaded for free? A link to the site would be great! Thanks in advance.

 

[digger]

Kevin B,
Here's some leftovers from the Fall Plow Day page.
http://ccspecialties.org/videos/videos.html

Also, nothin much is free these days, BUT, they are super cheap. Check out Kraigs Video Page.
http://ccspecialties.org/kraig.html

 

[digger]

Melvin C.
Here's what came stock on the 122's.

Without switching to ag tires from and rear which might tear up the grass to much, you guys might consider weights and chains to help out a little.

That or not turn into the hills, hit'um head on and head down, grin

 

[digger]

Maybe some one can tell me why every show thrower I've ever seen has the lock/tension clip removed! And why would they would remove it anyway! Grrrrrrrr

(Message edited by cproctor on November 28, 2004)

 

[tcbusch]

Charlie,
Whats a lock/tension clip for? Is it used to tension the belt? My tensioner system just uses a bolt that comes up from the bottom. Which I don't like and is cumbersome.
Charlie, is that you sitting on that 122 with you pants rolled and safety pinned?? That' so 80's!!

 

[digger]

Terry B,
That clip is to keep the belt tension ON, without that clip, the handle will back out and the belt will loosen, BTDT to many times!
80's! You gotta be a young'un, those are what they used to call Beatle shoes, introduced in the late 60's, LOL
BTW, that's a pic out of the factory brochure.

 

[dkamp]

Hey Terry-- take it easy on Charlie... he's really proud'a them shoes!

Mel- Besides what others have said about going to Ag-treads, etc., I'll toss in my three-cents' worth, as I sure dealt with that issue mowing my dad's hillside as a kid. Depends on how 'steep' the incline is, but here's what I got...

If he's slidin' downhill, the tires aren't biting hard enough. The function of TURF treads is to 'be kind' to the grass, so that it doesn't get opened up for erosion,etc. More aggressive treads, or chains WILL help... and in some cases, it's possible for a more aggressive tread to do LESS damage to turf than a turf tire. I experienced just this situation with my zero-turn- where the turf-tires spin, AG-treads keep good footing, and it rips up less grass as a result.

However, if the grade is so steep that he's slidin' alot, going to more aggressive tires MAY incite a rollover by biting, when turfs would just slide. The solution to that, is running duals. Dual rear wheels act as outriggers, spreading the footprint to prevent rollover. With that much weight-transfer in the lean, he'll likely need steering-brakes to keep the uphill wheel from spinning, and make the darned thing turn. Running chains and half-a-tire full of fluid on the INNER set of tires will do quite a bit for makin' it more goat-like on the inclines... but you're getting into risky territory when you get that close to being-the-horizon.

As Charlie said- goin' straight up and down the grade may be your best bet... and with chains on the tires, it'll claw it's way right up darned-near anything... it may do a little damage on the way, and you may have the urge to get wheelie-bars and a tether-type kill switch, too, but it'll climb. I've got a short incline in a lot up the street here... probably about a 50-55 degree angle, and my 109 will NOT climb it with turfs, but will with AGs, and will pull a trailer up it with chains. Note that with chains, it really doesn't matter if you're running AG tires or not.

It may seem silly to run AG tires on the front (since MOST of these tractors aren't 4wd (ahem... yet), but the tread DOES improve directional stability in the steering axle where the 5-rib 'turf' type tire will slide all over.

Since the Kohler is splash-lube, expect oil-puffing and don't be surprised if you get accellerated wear.

 

[digger]

Maybe you guys need one of these, grin

Taht way when you start slidin, take a look at it and don't go that far again!

 

[sblunier]

Dave K.

My hyd. chute rotator is very similar to the one pictured (that one belongs to Kent Wood, P.E.I. Canada - long lines are probably pre-mades). I have a 1/4" steel needle valve in one of my lines to regulate speed (flow). It WILL NOT over power the chute and cause damage, even if left "deadheaded".

BTW, it's a very cool option for tractors with front remotes........makes snow throwing a blast (from inside the cab

)

 

[sblunier]

MDC,

Don't buy tires from Northern and don't buy turfs. Go buy a set of Firestone, Carlisle/Titan, or Goodyear ag tires.

Contrary to the popular belief, they WILL NOT hurt your lawn...in fact, as it has been mentioned, they may do LESS damage.......that was the case with my lawn.

Run 6-8 psi in them and fill them with fluid (in tubes) if you want even more stability.

I have found that the 16x6.50x8 5 ribs SUCK!!!! I use Titan Multi-Trac CS deep treaded tirf tires on the front of my tractors and they hug ditch banks like a mountain goat.

my $.02 from someone who has been there....

 

[kbranch]

Thanks for the links to those videos Charlie. I like those, I don't normally plow in such HUGE fields! I usually plow in my back yard in the garden(60ft x 30ft) or in the woods planting food plots for the deer so I can hunt them.

If anybody has videos I would love to see them.

 

[sblunier]

Well, after this weekend's efforts, I will not have any more trouble with the next snow!!!!

Cab is on, chains are on, winter weights have been added, thrower is greased, Mobile 1 10W-30 in the crankcases, slip plate on the thrower, 12 gal. of gas in the shed, and sand bags under the cross box in the truck...........go ahead, let it snow!!!!

BTW, spent part of last week fitting a windbreaker from an early MTD Cub Cadet compact diesel to an 1811......challenging, but do-able. End result was very clean, almost factory, especially if you didn't know better (forgot to take pics though

)My brother's father in law (his tractor) is waiting for snow to play in!!!!! (42" Haban thrower)

 

[sblunier]

Charlie,

My QA-36B didn't have a clip either. I use a 1/4" bolt....drilled a 1/4" hole in the subframe near the end of the handle. When I get the belt tension just right I double nut a +/-1-1/2" long 1/4" bolt in the hole with enough shank sticking out to keep the adjuster from backing off........cheap, easy, down, dirty fix......just the way we like'm!!!!